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I'll start off with the rear end clunking that happened going over sharp bumps. I tried replacing the endlinks and even removed the sway bar to see if that was it. Looked up to the strut mounts to ensure they were screwed on tight as well. In the end, it ended being my rear glass was loose on the driver side bottom corner. I've got no idea how that could have happened unless it's an age thing with the adhesive eventually working it's way loose. I took it to an auto glass repair shop and they were able to remove and reinstall - what a pleasant drive now!

My second issue that was driving me nuts was the hesitation on acceleration with load on the engine (eg. 2nd gear low rpm). I tried replacing the wires, the plugs with new Autolite APP764's, a new coil and a new DPFE sensor. In the end it was those Autolites. I confirmed it back and forth by swapping my new Bosch +4's. The car runs A1 now.

My opinion - loose the Autolites if you've got any hesitation/bucking before trying anything else. With my engine, the 3 plugs close to the firewall gave me the problem.


98.5 SVT now gone ... new wheels = 2005 330i
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Originally posted by LBVSVT:
My opinion - loose the Autolites if you've got any hesitation/bucking before trying anything else. With my engine, the 3 plugs close to the firewall gave me the problem.




The Autolites are the OEM equivalent (Motorcrafts are just rebranded Autolites), while I've heard more than a few reports of major problems with the Bosch plugs. I would never recommend anything above the Autolite or Motorcraft plugs.

My Sport ran A1 with Splitfires (i.e. marketing hype junk) for three months until I developed a hesitation at high loads. I swapped them for the Autolites two years ago. I also had Bosch wires which wore out after one year and were replaced with OEM. Other than needing a UIM cleaning, that car hasn't run stronger since I bought it 40000 miles ago.

I know I'm raining on your parade, but please don't take it the wrong way. It's possible that you may have had some bunk plugs and the Bosch's, being new, are performing much better. Hopefully you will be one of those people who have had good luck with the +4s.


Beer is my Gatorade. Hooray Beer. '98 "Sport" Pacific Green '98 E0 SVT Silver Frost Pictures
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No worries - it's just an option for those that may be experiencing the same problems I had.

A lot of people are running the Autolites now and I've never seen so many comments on hesitation here and over on NECO ... maybe just a coincidence, but hey if your Autolites are working for ya, stick with 'em for sure. I just don't think people should automatically assume because they've got the Autolites and the hesitation that it HAS to be something else. I've gone through plenty of new autolites just to eventually have the problem minimize and then re-surface.



98.5 SVT now gone ... new wheels = 2005 330i
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For what its worth, I just changed from the Bosch to MotorCraft plugs and Ford Racing 9mm wires, the old wires were red noname junk. Bosch plugs and junk wires were on the car when I bought it. The car has run better since then.I noticed that the front bank plugs were carboned up and the rear banks were nice and clean. I made my choises after reading the SHO Shop web page, I had not found this site at that time. Good luck with your combination.


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Never heard of issues with Autolite APP764's. I'm willing to but moist were due to the plug wires.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Originally posted by LBVSVT:
I've gone through plenty of new autolites just to eventually have the problem minimize and then re-surface.




May yet happen again. Keep an eye on those +4s...


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.

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