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So, I relocated the IMRC to under the open air filter like people here recommended. Then I added a rubbermaid trash can heat shield just like the ones I've seen pics of on this site and it still dies out once it gets hot.

When I pull over and rev the motor by hand I can see the IMRC cable jerk, and the filter is quite warm to the touch but way way cooler than anything else under the hood.

However, none of these mods seem to have had any effect on this problem. Also I took the car in for a diag a few months ago and they never mentioned it throwing any codes or anything.

What gives?
put in a new fuel filter if you haven't changed it yet. Check your fuel pressure to make sure the fuel pump is functioning properly.

Other than that, there is a linkage that runs between the two banks of the Lower Intake Manifold (LIM). The plastic clips/retainers will sometimes crack & crumble & the linkage comes apart.
Originally posted by BillyT:
So, I relocated the IMRC to under the open air filter like people here recommended. ...



If the IMRC was broken before the relocation, relocating it would not help.

If it was intermittent failure, relocating the IMRC might help before it is too late.

Read cvkillacontour98's post in this thread for "before failure".
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=perf&Number=749718&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1

and if it is too late, you need Mr. Hightower's how to for repairs.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=v6maint&Number=1249131&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1
I had a mechanic change the fuel filter during the tune up/diag when I got the car a few months ago and so I assume he checked the pressure as well. Also would that and the linkage problem really be problems that only show up after driving long enough to get the hot very hot? Same with a fully broken IMRC, right? That would mean the car is always slow right? Not just after driving a while.

Just for clarification, the car hauls ass right out of my garage and then dies off some 10-20 mins later.
Originally posted by BillyT:
... Also would that and the linkage problem really be problems that only show up after driving long enough to get the hot very hot? Same with a fully broken IMRC, right? That would mean the car is always slow right? Not just after driving a while.

Just for clarification, the car hauls ass right out of my garage and then dies off some 10-20 mins later.



Bad fuel pump or intermittently functional IMRC would have this condition.
Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by BillyT:
... Also would that and the linkage problem really be problems that only show up after driving long enough to get the hot very hot? Same with a fully broken IMRC, right? That would mean the car is always slow right? Not just after driving a while.

Just for clarification, the car hauls ass right out of my garage and then dies off some 10-20 mins later.



Bad fuel pump or intermittently functional IMRC would have this condition.




Are these problems that should throw a code that a mechanic can see?
Originally posted by BillyT:
Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by BillyT:
... Also would that and the linkage problem really be problems that only show up after driving long enough to get the hot very hot? Same with a fully broken IMRC, right? That would mean the car is always slow right? Not just after driving a while.

Just for clarification, the car hauls ass right out of my garage and then dies off some 10-20 mins later.



Bad fuel pump or intermittently functional IMRC would have this condition.




Are these problems that should throw a code that a mechanic can see?



Sometimes yes, sometimes no. That is how intermittently functional devices work. How's that for a play in words?

Actually, to throw a code, the PCM needs to determine maybe on two cycles (or more) that a device is defective. If it is showing defective on one time, and then not on another or more times, it will not turn on the Check Engine Light. I guess one time, it is stored as a pending code (will not light up, but if the mechanic scans it, it will show up as a pending code). But if by the time the mechanic scans it and the PCM has erased the code by itself, then you will have no codes. In any case, sometimes codes are not stored even if the device is broken.

try cleaning your LIM's? maybe the secondaries are sticking after they get hot?

also, make sure your spring is on so the secondaries return when they are released, and if its intermittent IMRC box, open it up and clean it with electrical contact cleaner. and FYI guys, there is a nice heat shield that pep boys sells you just have to grind one side down to the contour of the strut tower, and make the hole a little bigger ifyou have a K&N. do this, it's aluminum, and you wont look like a civic tuner




heat soak, gone! lol



Yeah from the sounds of it I would think there is a larger problem. How about wires/plug/coil pack condition? I saw you had a tune up, but did you replace wires/plugs? Once those suckers heat up I would think it could cause problems.

Could shot tranny fluid also be an issues? <-- that might be out on a limb, but if the fluid is toast, it would probably cause issues after heating up for 10-20 minutes.
the best place to mount it is under the battery. if that doesnt work get a new one and mount it there. i mounted mine with zip ties under the battery and its been on there liek that for a few months now. at first i had it with a bolt the bolt rusted out and the imrc dropped and was dangling on the tranny .i get a 1518 for the runners being open but they arent even stuck open. i guess some kind of sensor in the imrc isnt working right.
Originally posted by cvkillacontour98:
the best place to mount it is under the battery. if that doesnt work get a new one and mount it there. i mounted mine with zip ties under the battery and its been on there liek that for a few months now. at first i had it with a bolt the bolt rusted out and the imrc dropped and was dangling on the tranny .i get a 1518 for the runners being open but they arent even stuck open. i guess some kind of sensor in the imrc isnt working right.




I have it zip tied to the metal bracket that used to hold the old stock air box, right behind the battery.

When I got the car I had the plugs changed, the fuel filter changed, all the belts changed, all fluids changed, and the brakes pads and discs/drums replaced.

i put mine directly under the battery. its zipped tied to both bottom sides of the battery rack. if your imrc isnt working at all you need a new one. if it works than stops workign after the car gets warm the relocation should help. my original imrc had got to the point where once the engine got warm it wouldnt work untill i shut the car off and start it back up and it would cut out again. than when i relocated it it was all back to normal. but i had to buy a new imrc once the cable had ripped.
Originally posted by TRicker:
try cleaning your LIM's? maybe the secondaries are sticking after they get hot?

also, make sure your spring is on so the secondaries return when they are released, and if its intermittent IMRC box, open it up and clean it with electrical contact cleaner. and FYI guys, there is a nice heat shield that pep boys sells you just have to grind one side down to the contour of the strut tower, and make the hole a little bigger ifyou have a K&N. do this, it's aluminum, and you wont look like a civic tuner




Pics or a link maybe b/c I'm interested!
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