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Loco4G63
CEG road warrior

Reged: 08/01/01
Posts: 17248
Loc: IL
Re: Wheels Welded On! new
#695526 (Re: RawBurt) 08/25/04 10:53 PM

I used WD40 and a crow bar.....

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Hector

2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Evolution VIII
257HP/259TQ


2005 Lapis Blue Mazda 6s

RET: 00 Cabernet Red Ford Contour Zetec ATX SUPERCHARGED
160HP/141TQ





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R_G
Hard-core CEG'er

Reged: 05/02/03
Posts: 5621
Loc: New Jersey
Re: Wheels Welded On! new
#695543 (Re: horseydug) 08/25/04 11:14 PM

Originally posted by horseydug:
give the tire a couple of whacks on the inside.




Just keep whackin'.

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MY CAR

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Loco4G63
CEG road warrior

Reged: 08/01/01
Posts: 17248
Loc: IL
Re: Wheels Welded On! new
#695729 (Re: R_G) 08/26/04 03:35 AM

Originally posted by R_G:
Originally posted by horseydug:
give the tire a couple of whacks on the inside.




Just keep whackin'.


Sounds kind of personal.

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Hector

2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Evolution VIII
257HP/259TQ


2005 Lapis Blue Mazda 6s

RET: 00 Cabernet Red Ford Contour Zetec ATX SUPERCHARGED
160HP/141TQ





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BlackSativa
CEG'er

Reged: 08/04/03
Posts: 295
Loc: Topeka, KS
Re: Wheels Welded On! new
#695790 (Re: Loco4G63) 08/26/04 04:36 AM

I work at a tire store and we have this problem all the time. There are a few tricks we use. WD-40 is one of them, although not very often. The first thing we try is a heavy blow from a balled up hand to the tire. Often times this does the trick. If this doesn't work, we use a rubber mallet around the edge of the rim. If that doesn't work, we'll use a dead blow hammer on the backside of the rim. If that doesn't work, we have a 2.5lb sledge with a short handle that we use on the backside of the rim. Not too many wheels will stay stuck when using the sledge. Be careful with this though, as you can damage the rim if you hit it too hard. If by chance the sledge won't take it off, we have a 10 ft. steel pipe that we can usually wedge between the wheel and some part of the car. That will get all but the very toughest wheels off. The very toughest wheels get a combo of WD-40, 10 ft. pipe, and the sledge, all at the same time.

Hopefully some of that will help. Granted, it's a bit easier for us because we have lifts that makes access to the backside of the rim easier.

Also, as was said before, some anti-seize around the hub will help prevent this next time. The anti-seize from Advance AP (and probably other parts stores) that comes in a white bottle with a brown label, about the size of a soda can, seems to work well. It runs about $4 a bottle. It's also worthwhile to put a touch of this in your lug nuts. It will help them to go on, as well as keep them from getting SO tight in the future.

Good luck!

--------------------
Jonathan
'96 Contour Zetec MTX
208,XXX miles

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Kyo
CEG'er

Reged: 05/13/02
Posts: 427
Loc: Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Qc
Re: Wheels Welded On! new
#695873 (Re: BlackSativa) 08/26/04 09:33 AM

Thanks for the tips Jonathan, these will come handy in a short while...

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Kyo
1997 Mystique GS Duratec ATX -- sold
2005 Focus ST - Quicker! - Still a Duratec!

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rage2299
CEG'er

Reged: 04/25/04
Posts: 59
Loc: new jersey
Re: Wheels Welded On! new
#696424 (Re: Kyo) 08/26/04 11:14 PM

make sure when you are whacking you leave at least one lug nut on. hate to see you scratch your rim or other car when the rim flies off.

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JEDsContour
Veteran CEG'er

Reged: 12/06/02
Posts: 937
Loc: Marshall VA, USA
Re: Wheels Welded On! new
#696509 (Re: BlackSativa) 08/27/04 12:37 AM

Originally posted by BlackSativa:
It's also worthwhile to put a touch of this in your lug nuts. It will help them to go on, as well as keep them from getting SO tight in the future.Good luck!



Do you mean the portion that contacts the wheel (not the threads)? Putting that on the threads is a bad idea.

Actually, I think that putting antisieze anywhere but on the part of the wheel that contacts the hub is a bad idea.



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99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles

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Kyo
CEG'er

Reged: 05/13/02
Posts: 427
Loc: Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Qc
Re: Wheels Welded On! new
#696729 (Re: JEDsContour) 08/27/04 03:11 AM

Originally posted by JEDsContour:
Do you mean the portion that contacts the wheel (not the threads)? Putting that on the threads is a bad idea.

Actually, I think that putting antisieze anywhere but on the part of the wheel that contacts the hub is a bad idea.




And why is that? It's not like the lug nuts are going to come off because of it.. I don't see my spark plugs coming off..

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Kyo
1997 Mystique GS Duratec ATX -- sold
2005 Focus ST - Quicker! - Still a Duratec!

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MarkO
Hard-core CEG'er

Reged: 12/06/00
Posts: 1960
Loc: Proud to live in America
Re: Wheels Welded On! new
#696927 (Re: RawBurt) 08/27/04 06:42 AM

Put a jack under to car to support the weight. Take off the lug nuts. VERY carefully, start to lower the car. The weight of the car will break the wheel loose. Jack the car up and pull the wheel off.

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Bless our servicemen & women overseas.

L.Cpl Ian Malone, 1st Battalion Irish Guards, R.I.P.

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JEDsContour
Veteran CEG'er

Reged: 12/06/02
Posts: 937
Loc: Marshall VA, USA
Re: Wheels Welded On! new
#696941 (Re: Kyo) 08/27/04 08:21 AM

Originally posted by Kyo:
Originally posted by JEDsContour:
Do you mean the portion that contacts the wheel (not the threads)? Putting that on the threads is a bad idea.

Actually, I think that putting antisieze anywhere but on the part of the wheel that contacts the hub is a bad idea.




And why is that? It's not like the lug nuts are going to come off because of it.. I don't see my spark plugs coming off..



Good Point.

I have certainly had wheels stick to the hubs (even steel wheels), but fortunately I have never yet had a lug nut get frozen to a stud.

--------------------
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles

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