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unisys12Moderator
Hard-core CEG'er

Reged: 09/08/02
Posts: 3944
Loc: Corinth, MS
Re: ATX drain and fill How To W/ Pics new
#1052247 (Re: SVTCANUK) 09/17/05 04:44 AM

Because while running the tranny and pumping fluid out at the sametime, you run the great risk of burning your clutch packs or just plain causeing undo wear on the components of the tranny.

Yeah, it could be done that way. I'm not saying that it can't, but I personally feel that the risk is too great. I will add that the best option is performing a flush on the tranny, but in cases where the fluid has never been changed in longlonglong time, that could do more harm than good.

--------------------
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K

"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime

Edited by unisys12 (09/17/05 04:46 AM)

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warmonger
Hard-core CEG'er

Reged: 08/16/01
Posts: 5810
Loc: Ozark, AL
Re: ATX drain and fill How To W/ Pics new
#1052345 (Re: SVTCANUK) 09/17/05 12:59 PM

Well if you had a bucket of fresh fluid and stuck the retun/inlet line into it then I'd probably say it would be ok.

If you do this while the car is cold then it would be better as than hot. You don't want to loose all you ATF when the transmission is already hot.

Hell, it probably won't matter either way. If it is idling in park while you do it as there is no pressure on any clutch packs or bands at that point. I'd just be a little leary if it was already up to operating temp. I say this last bit about it not mattering because how many times have people with trans leaks leaked run low on oil and realize it later then fill up and everything is still fine. And that is with pressure on everything.

--------------------
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black

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unisys12Moderator
Hard-core CEG'er

Reged: 09/08/02
Posts: 3944
Loc: Corinth, MS
Re: ATX drain and fill How To W/ Pics new
#1052362 (Re: warmonger) 09/17/05 02:06 PM

Originally posted by warmonger:
Well if you had a bucket of fresh fluid and stuck the retun/inlet line into it then I'd probably say it would be ok.






Well the only problem with this is that the the return inlet for the pump does not draw from a line, but rather a sump. The pump literally pushes the fluid through the system and out of the cooler to the rear lube. Once the fluid runs through the rear lube section, it drops into the sump. The pump then pulls the fluid out of the sump, through the filter. At this point, it does pull from the Main Regulator Valve at an unknown pressure. If I had to take a stab at guessing, it would be 50-175psi in D,1 or 2 and 73-252 in P,R or N. It doesn't matter though, because there is no way to tap this location to bring new fluid into the system.

For reference, I got this info from the CD4E Oil Schematic, which can be found on the A-Teams website.



--------------------
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K

"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime

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Big Jim
Hard-core CEG'er

Reged: 09/03/00
Posts: 4693
Loc: Thousand Oaks, California, USA
Re: ATX drain and fill How To W/ Pics new
#1052404 (Re: unisys12) 09/17/05 04:44 PM

When I use the hose in a bucket method to do a fluid exchange, I add the new fluid through the dipstick tube. I try to do at at about the same rate as it is getting pumped out. The exception is when I'm doing a fluid exchange on a trans that doesn't have a dipstick tube, such as the 5 speed in the Explorer. Then I must use the two bucket method to suck fluid into the trans as the other is pumping out. That gets to be a bit tricky.

--------------------
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited

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btrautman
CEG'er

Reged: 11/13/01
Posts: 1176
Loc: Austin, TX.
Re: ATX drain and fill How To W/ Pics new
#1052649 (Re: Big Jim) 09/18/05 02:59 AM

I.......would just pay for a system flush. On my 1 contour, I must have done about 5 fluid changes drain and refil and still the fluid was dark....After the flushing, all of it was out...

Bob


--------------------
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!

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jtour
Hard-core CEG'er

Reged: 08/10/04
Posts: 2659
Loc: ILL, CHICAGO
Re: ATX drain and fill How To W/ Pics new
#1129014 (Re: btrautman) 12/19/05 03:43 PM

Originally posted by btrautman:
I.......would just pay for a system flush. On my 1 contour, I must have done about 5 fluid changes drain and refil and still the fluid was dark....After the flushing, all of it was out...

Bob





I did the same thing. I got it done for $80. But I do enjoy the how to. VERY VERY GOOD job. I think I might give it a try next time.



--------------------
"Do what you like, Because you have to drive it!"-Me

99 Contour LX
95 Mustang GT Convertible
97 Z24 Cavalier

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sdowney717
CEG'er

Reged: 07/11/05
Posts: 51
Re: ATX drain and fill How To W/ Pics new
#1227559 (Re: SVTCANUK) 04/28/06 10:43 PM

I added an external filter in the return cooler line.
So, this filters the oil and the internal filter which can only be replaced on a rebuild I dont have to worry about. By the way Carquest sells a filter specific for this, BUT I used a 3/8 input large metal can fuel filter from autozone and it worked just fine. Thousands of miles later the fluid is still clear and red. Think of it like this, gasoline has more solvent action than ATF and the gas filters to at least 10 microns or better. And these filters have to take high pressure without exploding, which by the way, the retrun line does not have a high pressure. Just dumps into the sump I think.
I also added an external oil cooler made for a ford focus, fit in with very little trouble. I installed the external cooler in the return line and then it goes into the filter and then it returns to the transmission. There have been no flow problems even in cold weather.

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unisys12Moderator
Hard-core CEG'er

Reged: 09/08/02
Posts: 3944
Loc: Corinth, MS
Re: ATX drain and fill How To W/ Pics new
#1228092 (Re: sdowney717) 04/29/06 10:48 PM

Thanks for the input downey! Every little bit of experience counts!!

--------------------
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K

"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime

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Tony2005
Addicted CEG'er

Reged: 06/19/05
Posts: 5345
Loc: Virginia, USA
Re: ATX drain and fill How To W/ Pics new
#1268647 (Re: starjammir) 06/28/06 06:06 PM

"6. When all the old fluid is out reinstall the drain plug."

As stated in the Ford CD manual, should wrap some teflon tape around the drain plug to prevent leaks.

--------------------
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."

1996 V6 ATX 96K miles


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vincom
New CEG'er

Reged: 11/03/05
Posts: 27
Re: ATX drain and fill How To W/ Pics new
#1272948 (Re: sdowney717) 07/06/06 06:52 AM

Originally posted by sdowney717:
I added an external filter in the return cooler line.
So, this filters the oil and the internal filter which can only be replaced on a rebuild I dont have to worry about. By the way Carquest sells a filter specific for this, BUT I used a 3/8 input large metal can fuel filter from autozone and it worked just fine. Thousands of miles later the fluid is still clear and red. Think of it like this, gasoline has more solvent action than ATF and the gas filters to at least 10 microns or better. And these filters have to take high pressure without exploding, which by the way, the retrun line does not have a high pressure. Just dumps into the sump I think.
I also added an external oil cooler made for a ford focus, fit in with very little trouble. I installed the external cooler in the return line and then it goes into the filter and then it returns to the transmission. There have been no flow problems even in cold weather.




if it has a cooler already, why add another one, or is stock cooler not that great. if you added another cooler, are you now using 2 coolers at the same time, or replacing stock cooler


--------------------
canadian, 98 mystique LS sport 2.5L atx
98 contour se 2.0 L atx
00 300m

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