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unisys12Moderator
Hard-core CEG'er

Reged: 09/08/02
Posts: 3944
Loc: Corinth, MS
MTX-75 Upgrade How-To
#1021354 - 08/10/05 02:50 AM

A very special thanks to SHOTIME2669 for this How-To!!

Ok this how-to will not describe how to remove the transaxle from your car or install it, but rather just how to take it apart and upgrade the components. I will be installing the shift forks, shift tower and a Torsen differential. With that said lets continue…

Set yourself up for the job. You will need a large amount of work space to allow for the transaxle disassembly. Here are the list of tools I used and then a list of Ford recommended tools along with a list of the parts and supplies needed.

Tools:
13mm, 10mm, and 8mm sockets
13mm open end wrench
7/8” open end wrench
Breaker bar
3/8” drive ratchet
3/8” drive extension
1/2” drive ratchet
1/2” drive extension
Large gear puller
Torque wrench
Flat head screw driver
2 Blocks of wood
3 Plastic bags zip lock bags
Pry bar

Ford recommended tools:
Puller (T58L-101-B)
Impact Slide Hammer (T50T-100-A)
Stator and Driven Sprocket Remover (T86P-70043-A)
Driver Handle (T80T-4000-W)
Transfer Case Output Seal Replacer (T87P-7065-B)
Differential Bearing Cone Replacer (T94P7025GH)

Ford Parts:
YS2Z-7230-BA Fork-Gea
YS4Z-7230-AD Fork 3rd
XS8Z-7240-DD Fork-Gea
XS4Z-7201-CD Focus Shift Tower
YS4Z-15525-BA Reverse light switch adapter harness
YS4Z-15520-BA Reverse light switch
XS4Z-7L282-AA Vent
YS4Z-7222-AC Shift tower cover
YS4Z-7412-JA Shift tower clamp 1
YS4Z-7412-HA Shift tower clamp 2
F7RZ-4221-AC Differential bearing (need 2)
F5RZ-17285-AA Speedo gear for VSS
XL-3 Ford additive friction modifier
M-4204-F20 Torsen T2 differential

Non-Ford Parts/supplies:
242 Loctite or equivalent
Permatex Ultra Black Hi-Temp RTV silicone Part# 598B
Junk yard marker or paint pen
6 M8-16 bolts
6 M8 flat washers
6 M8 lock washers


Notes prior to disassembly:
The above tools can be rented from auto parts stores like Checker/CSK auto if you don’t have them.
Before beginning the install make sure you have the bearings and speedo gear pressed onto the Torsen differential by a transmission shop. Unless of course you have the means of doing it yourself

1) Remove the shift tower from the case. There are 6 bolts that require the 10mm socket for removal. There will be 3 long bolts and 3 short bolts. Place these bolts in a zip lock bag and label accordingly.




2) Once the shift tower has been removed loosen and remove the bolts around the bell housing. There will be a total of 16 bolts and 2 studs the bolts will be 10mm and the two studs will be 17mm. Note the holes to which the studs go to with a junk yard marker or paint. Place the bolts and studs in a zip lock bag and label accordingly.






3) Place the transaxle up right with the bell housing facing up. With the bell housing bolts removed use the pry bar to loose the bell housing from the case and then remove it. Be very careful not to crack the case.


4) Once the bell housing is removed from the case you will now have exposed the differential and the rest of the internals (input shaft, output shaft, shift forks, etc.)


5) Remove the differential from the case and set aside.

6) Remove the selector rods (rods that are holding shift forks in place)


7) Remove the shift forks one by noting where each one goes. Match them up with the new parts and reinstall. They slide out very easily and go in the same way.



You can see the difference in the forks

8) With the new shift forks installed reinstall the selector rods. Be sure they set in the placement holes at the bottom of the case (pictured below). You know you have installed them right if they are both sitting at the same height.






9) Now turn your attention to the differential. The ring gear must be removed from the old diff to reinstall the Torsen T2 diff. Using a breaker bar with a 13mm socket and a ratchet with a 13mm socket/or 13mm open end wrench hold one bolt on the differential and break another bolt loose. Make your way around the diff until all bolts are loose. On the last bolt you will need to hold the differential with a towel and loosen the bolt with the breaker bar. This may take two people, but I was able to do it by myself. Place the bolts in a zip lock bag and label accordingly for later use.




10) With all of the bolts removed from the ring gear place a block over the end of the differential and use the large gear puller to remove the ring gear from the differential as shown.




11) Once the ring gear has been removed place the new Torsen differential in the freezer and the ring gear in the oven set at 350°F and let both sit for approximately 15-20min.

12) While the ring gear is heating and the Torsen diff is cooling go back to the case and remove the races from the old diff’s bearings. This is where having the Ford tools listed at the beginning comes in handy. If you have the tools use the stator and driven sprocket remove with the puller to remove the races. I didn’t have this tool and didn’t realize I could rent it at the time so I used two flat head screw drives to pry them up and out. I don’t recommend doing it this way, but if you do be sure not to scratch up the mating surfaces. Once the races are removed be sure to keep any shims that were in place and note were they go ( you may want to place them in a zip lock bag and label them accordingly)





With the race removed this is what you will see, notice the notches where the stator tool would fit.

13) Obtain the bag with the ring gear bolts as well as an open end wrench to start them in with. Retrieve the Torsen diff from the freezer (as you do this place the new bearing races in the freezer) and set it up right so it is ready to receive the hot ring gear. Grab the ring gear from the oven with some hot mitts and place it on the differential. You should not have to force it on. If you do replace the ring gear back in the oven and the diff back in the freezer and try again later. If it slides on without any problems line it up with the bolt holes are start the bolts (you may want to use the 242 loctite on the bolts) tighten the bolts with the open end wrench and allow the differential to cool.






14) While the differential is cooling install the new shift tower. Before installing the shift tower ensure that both the shift forks and the shift tower are all aligned and that they are in the neutral position (shown below) Clean the mounting surface (I used brake a can of brake cleaner and some paper towel) of the shift tower and then apply a sealant (Permatex ultra black RTV) to the surface and bottom of shift tower. Place the shift tower in place and bolt it on using the 6 M8-16 bolts with a flat washer and a lock washer on each. Torque the bolts to 32Nm doing so in a diagonal pattern. Then screw in the new reverse light switch accordingly, it’ll take a 7/8” wrench.
NOTE: Bolts should be tightened within half an hour of applying sealant
















15) After the shift tower has been installed go and retrieve the new races for the differential bearings in the freezer. Place the shims that you removed from the previous races in their corresponding spots (Ford states that there should be one 10mm shim for the differential, I found this shim on the bell housing side next to the VSS gear) The new races should fall right into place since they have been cooled. However if they do not, this again is where having the Ford recommend tools comes in handy again. Using Driver Handle (T80T-4000-W), Transfer Case Output Seal Replacer (T87P-7065-B), and Differential Bearing Cone Replacer (T94P7025GH) you should be able to replace the races. I replaced the races back in the freezer until they dropped into place.


16) With the new races installed take the now cooled differential/ring gear assembly and torque the bolts to 88Nm in a diagonal pattern. I did this by putting a set of wooden blocks in a vise with the ring gear sandwiched between them.

17) Put the differential in place making sure the ring gear is mating correctly with the output shaft gear and that the bearing is sitting correctly in the newly installed race.


18) Clean the surface of the case and the bell housing (again I used brake cleaner and paper towel) and apply sealant (Permatex ultra black RTV #598B). Place the bell housing over the case ensuring that the pins are aligned and push it into place. You may need to use a rubber mallet to get it to sit all the way down.









19) With the transaxle still sitting up right with the bell housing facing up; install the bell housing 10mm bolts into place along with the 17mm studs (ensure that these studs get placed in the right holes that where marked with the marker or paint earlier) Torque all these bolts and studs to 32Nm.

NOTE: Bolts should be tightened within half an hour of applying sealant



20) Now that the case is assembled replace the slave cylinder/throw-out bearing assembly. The assembly is located in the bell housing over the input shaft. It’s held into place by 3 bolts. Using an 8mm socket remove the bolts and take off the rubber dust cover that is over the lines.








21) Clean the surface and install the new slave cylinder. Torque the bolts to 10Nm and install the new dust cover over the lines.



Make sure the boot fitment is correct around the edges.



Notes after assembly:
Make sure upon filling the transaxle with gear oil you include the additive friction modifier from Ford. I also suggest using Red line MTL 75W80 oil I’ve heard only good things about the stuff.

Congratulations. You have just successfully upgraded your factory MTX-75 transaxle.

Special thanks to:
-Master Transmission of Rosemount, MN who installed my differential bearings free of charge.
-Steve and Mike at Tousley Ford, White Bear Lake, MN who helped me get the parts I needed and saved my some serious coin. 1-800-328-9552 ask for Steve or Mike
-Chris (Blackcoog) for helping me out with getting the right list of parts and answering my questions.
-Digital Slacker for initially hosting the pictures


--------------------
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K

"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime

Edited by unisys12 (08/10/05 02:57 AM)

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CSVT#49
Veteran CEG'er

Reged: 05/28/04
Posts: 636
Loc: Coon Rapids, MN
Re: MTX-75 Upgrade How-To new
#1021365 (Re: unisys12) 08/10/05 03:00 AM

Despite some minor problems with getting the ring gear on and having to replace my VSS it all went pretty smooth. I hope this how-to is clear enough and provides all the necessary information about how to get the job done.



Enjoy everyone!

Thanks for taking care of the post unisys12 and inserting those spaces.

Also if anyone has questions or needs more pictures providing a little more detail on some of the steps in this how-to just drop me a PM or email and I'll hook you up. I left out about half the pictures just because I didn't want this post to be 3 pages long.

--------------------
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp

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CSVT#49
Veteran CEG'er

Reged: 05/28/04
Posts: 636
Loc: Coon Rapids, MN
Linkage new
#1021396 (Re: CSVT#49) 08/10/05 03:45 AM

I also just realized that this how-to didn't touch on the linkages. I have not yet installed this transaxle in my car so I have no installation pictures.

However here are pictures of the parts you should have in your possession when you are finished here.





I'll add more pictures after I get the transaxle and the engine back in my car. That way you can see the connections.


--------------------
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp

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Blackcoog
Veteran CEG'er

Reged: 11/14/00
Posts: 611
Loc: Fridley, MN, USA
Re: Linkage new
#1021507 (Re: CSVT#49) 08/10/05 11:49 AM

There are ears on the transmission for prying it apart. You do not want to pry it apart with a crow bar or screw driver in any other place but where those points are. If you jam a screw driver or crow bar between the cases you will scratch up the mating surfaces and your transmission will leak even if you put RTV sealant on it when putting it back together. I've seen it happen before. Just an FYI for all you reading the how-to.

--------------------
1999 3.0L Cougar: 220fwhp and 200tq
2003 VW Passat W8 with 4 Motion AWD

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/300644

PM for intrest in 3L SVT Contours, 3L swaps into your current car, Prepped 3L engines, or anything 3L related.

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Pole120
Hard-core CEG'er

Reged: 03/16/04
Posts: 4141
Loc: New Berlin, WI
Re: Linkage new
#1021795 (Re: Blackcoog) 08/10/05 05:35 PM

amazing how to.....mad props to you man.


i can't waite to dive into my trans now.

--------------------
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06

99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle

90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k

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CSVT#49
Veteran CEG'er

Reged: 05/28/04
Posts: 636
Loc: Coon Rapids, MN
Re: Linkage new
#1022093 (Re: Blackcoog) 08/10/05 11:34 PM

Good call Chris. I forgot to mention that.

The ears can be seen in the 4th, 6th and 7th pictures in the how-to. There is one on each side.




--------------------
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp

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PÕWDÉ®CØÃTMÀŃ
Hard-core CEG'er

Reged: 02/15/05
Posts: 1572
Re: Linkage new
#1022155 (Re: Pole120) 08/11/05 12:51 AM

Originally posted by pole120:
amazing how to.....mad props to you man.


i can't waite to dive into my trans now.




I can't belive how easy that really look's . I read the page over and over to make sure I knew exactly what was going on and I know I can do this . I asked a local guy at a trans shop about doing them for me a while back and he pretty much ran away from me with FEAR ....he plain said NO WAY its a nightmare ..

From what I can see less then 20 bolts , pry it apart , pull out the 2 shafts and change out the forks , and reassemble ...


Thanks for all this help !!! Nice to have this info ..

--------------------
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www.powdercoatingworld.com
People shouldn't slam each other when posting, If you cant say something good to say then just hit the back arrow.

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PÕWDÉ®CØÃTMÀŃ
Hard-core CEG'er

Reged: 02/15/05
Posts: 1572
Re: Linkage new
#1022158 (Re: PÕWDÉ®CØÃTMÀŃ) 08/11/05 12:54 AM

Sorry but do you have part numbers for the linkage shown ?

--------------------
Check me out for awsome powder coating deals
www.powdercoatingworld.com
People shouldn't slam each other when posting, If you cant say something good to say then just hit the back arrow.

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CSVT#49
Veteran CEG'er

Reged: 05/28/04
Posts: 636
Loc: Coon Rapids, MN
Re: Linkage new
#1022159 (Re: PÕWDÉ®CØÃTMÀŃ) 08/11/05 12:55 AM

The part numbers for the linkages are at the top of the How-To, in the list of Ford Parts.

YS4Z-7412-JA Shift tower clamp 1
YS4Z-7412-HA Shift tower clamp 2

I realize they say clamp, but the were referred to that in an earlier post from someone else. So I stuck with it to avoid complications.

You don't even have to pull the shafts out. You just have to move them to the side a bit and slide the forks on.

The process is easy you just need to have the tools to do it.


--------------------
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp

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PÕWDÉ®CØÃTMÀŃ
Hard-core CEG'er

Reged: 02/15/05
Posts: 1572
Re: Linkage *DELETED* new
#1022188 (Re: CSVT#49) 08/11/05 01:49 AM

Post deleted by unisys12

--------------------
Check me out for awsome powder coating deals
www.powdercoatingworld.com
People shouldn't slam each other when posting, If you cant say something good to say then just hit the back arrow.

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