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hsoverma
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Battery Relocation Questions
#1143364 - 01/10/06 04:39 PM
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I did a search on battery reloaction and came up with a few good tidbits, and the faq is cool but lacks the pics (I am a visual guy), so I still have a few questions.
I know a lot of you turbo guys have done battery relocations, so hopefully you can help me.
Is it better to run the battery cables under the chassis or in the cabin, and what did you do and why?
Should I run both ground and power wires or just run a power wire and bolt a short ground to the trunk?
Where in the trunk is the best place to put the battery and how (details) did you mount it?
To semi-answer my own questions, I would think it would be better to run the wires in the cabin cause it seems easier. I also think it would be fine to bolt a short ground to the trunk area, but some seem to think this would cause a difference of ground from the rear to the front of the car. As far as mounting, I am a little worried about drilling holes in the trunk or drilling anywhere in the trunk, but maybe I'll have to.
Oh, and if you want to flame me for something I said or something I made a mistake on just PM it to me. 
I really just want to learn cause I dont have that much experience but I enjoy working on my CSVT.
Thanks CEG.
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1998 SVT + Goodies
Hal's How To's
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dubkatz
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Most people mount the battery on the far right to offset the weight of the driver. Run the shortest lengh ground to the trunk(but make sure the ground is the same gauge as the power). The sape tire well makes a good spot. Make sure to scrape the paint off were its gonna be grounded. I ran 4gauge wire thru the car(i already had it there from my stereo amp. Alot of people(well respected) suggest using big welding cable. Myself and at least 2 others i know run 4gauge and its works fine. In regards to how to mount the batt. Go to pepboys etc. they have batt. boxes that use a strap. to hold the batt box down, Very easy to mount.
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98 csvt t-red.. sho-shop intake, b&m, fidanza, spec1 clutch, Torsen, DMD,optimized Y& TB, Brullen, rear strut bar,h&r's,17" konig traffik's.
"I say what I mean and I do what i say"
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KingpinSVT
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Im going to run my wires through my new subframe connectors. Ill put some hose around the wire in case the welds want to rub through the insulation, but they will be nice and protected from road debris in there. 
Funny, I was reading through all those old threads last night.
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#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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GTO Pete
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I ran mine inside the car through the firewall under the washer wiper cowl. From there through the channel that runs from the front to the back. The holes at either end are perfect size for 0 gauge.
I used a Phoenix Gold ground terminal to ground in the trunk along with some dilectric grease.
Installed an Optima red top in a tray in the passenger side corner.
Installed a breaker to allow me to cut the electricity without having to unhook the battery (very convenient).
I have brand new Streetwires firewall bushing (1/0 gauge) and Phoenix Gold ground terminal to sell if anyone is interested.
The only way you'll get flamed for asking questions is if they are untelligble gibberish, one liners "what body kits are there?" or "I want to install a BOV, but not the turbo" types. Your post is just fine. 
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Capitol CEG Classifieds
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Pudmunkie
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Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
Im going to run my wires through my new subframe connectors. Ill put some hose around the wire in case the welds want to rub through the insulation, but they will be nice and protected from road debris in there.
Funny, I was reading through all those old threads last night.
Sounds pretty badass chris, Might have to gank your idea!
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Alex
'99 SVT Contour
-=|WANTED: Vortech, working or not |=-
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Steeda.
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Thats how my first SHO Had the 0/2 gauge run, threw the SFC's
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Tourige
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Originally posted by GTO Pete:
or "I want to install a BOV, but not the turbo"
hahaha, i remember that guy. Some newbrooks
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99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find. 
much like your weiner.
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Ray
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I have the how-to with pictures made in to a PDF.. I'll email it if you pm me your email addy.
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'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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KingpinSVT
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I was looking through the Knu website the other day and the distribution blocks that were used in the how to are no longer sold. The how to may need to be updated with suitable replacements.
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#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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hsoverma
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CEG'er
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As soon as I do the relocation, I will put it in the queue for my How-To website. I just got the exhaust install up last night. I like to try and take pics in detail and step-by-step.
Also, all the pics I take can be used for the official CEG how-to if you'll want 'em.
Ray, thanks for the pdf file. I will PM you.
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1998 SVT + Goodies
Hal's How To's
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Ray
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sent to those of you whose emails I had.
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'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Number47
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how did every one that did the battery relocation hook it up the pos term. where the battery was before? did you remove the terminal and straight wire or did you use the exisiting terminal and did you fuse it at all??
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00 Contour SVT Black
#557 of 2150
Fabricated Nov 24 1999
Currently unmoded
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KingpinSVT
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Yes you need a fuse or circuit breaker, at 150 amps. You also will need a distrabution block under the hood to connect the old wires to the new one.
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#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
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couldnt you just run the power wire from the trunk to the engine bay, and connect that side to the connector that would normally have been connected to the battery terminal??
with a big bolt?
and wouldnt that act as your power distribution??
so basically run the power to the engine bay, and connect it with the old terminal connector that was there stock?
so instead of running a distribution block, to separate power, to the starter, and other accessories, wouldnt it be acceptable to just connect the cable from the battery in the trunk to battery terminal connector in the engine bay (used to connect directly to battery stock) and then just ground the negative terminal to the chassis??
wouldnt these be a simpler solution??
or am i nutz?
i know what im trying to ask, its just the words arent dur!
hopefully someone can interpret
cuz i plan on doing this within a week as well
try this:
now you can see my question
wont get any bigger
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E1 CSVT
s/c-----x
turbo---x
3L------check
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posthuman63t
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Your worded explanaton made sense to me...the Ground wires of your pic are confusing though....
But that is how I thought it was to be done.
minus using a big bolt... 
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2000 Contour SVT
SF - #542 of 2150
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KingpinSVT
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You could, but you would have no good way of safely insulating the bolt from shorting. A short could lead to sparks, fire, messed up electical components, battery explosion, etc.
A disto. block is the safe way to do things. No need to try backwoods engineering when disto. blocks are easy, cheap, and safe.
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#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
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Ray
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You COULD always read the how-to that describes how, and where.. and follow it the way it says... 
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'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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hey is was just a question??
no need to shoot me down
plz pm that how to however!!
what if there was a way to instulate said connecting device??
it would theoritically work?
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E1 CSVT
s/c-----x
turbo---x
3L------check
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GTO Pete
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Sticky / FAQ
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Capitol CEG Classifieds
Make an offer!
2005 GTO IBM - 337hp/336tq
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svt4stv
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and if anyone is interested in a subframe connector strictly for running their wires through, i will gladly sell you one subframe connector (you choose the side) for 1/2 price
ps that's what i plan to do as well. (relocate battery/run via SFCs). summit racing sells a nice battery relocation kit for around $50. ill have to check out Pep Boys' as well.
if youre going to take your tour to a track, you may need to get an electrical kill switch.
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Originally posted by Tourgasm:
Sometimes you can mess up a word so bad that spell check doens't know what the hell you're talking about.
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KingpinSVT
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BTW, instead of buying the whole summit kit with parts that most people dont use, you can just get this one. Its 1 gauge instead of 2, and it doesnt come with all the junk.
here
Im gonna nab that, a red top Optima, and some distro blocks and call it a day.
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#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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hsoverma
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Even though I have the subframe connectors coming to me monday, I have decided to run the wires in the cabin.
I took the battery tray out a few days ago and wow there's a lot of room. As a result I am putting in a custom CAI. I should have it all finished by next weekend. Ill post the pics in this thread.
I am going to cut the battery tray apart so I can still use the stock mounting location for the fuse box.
I have decided to place the battery at the right rear corner of the car. There is a rubber grommet right in that area so for those of you who run the cables under the car it should be easy to remove. (NO DRILLING!)
I was thinking hard about the spare tire area, but not having a space for the doughnut worries me a bit. I have never had a flat but I know if I dont carry the spare then Murphy's law will kick in.
Thanks for the link to the summit kit. I am going to buy that one. Any other links to reasonably price distribution block that you recommend?
Thanks for the great input CEG.
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1998 SVT + Goodies
Hal's How To's
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hsoverma
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I am going to use this distribution block. Found it also on the Summit Site for 99.00. Kinda expensive but it will be clean.
Streetwires CBR44M
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1998 SVT + Goodies
Hal's How To's
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hmouta
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partsexpress has that dist block for 65. agu and mineknife fuses. i bought mine on sale like 2 months ago for around 55 from pe.
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Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
95 gl & 99 contour svt #1750/2760
my profile pics stuff for sale
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KingpinSVT
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Thats silly. A dist. block that costs $14 will do the job just fine, as you add a fuse/curcuit breaker into the line to the trunk anyway. This way is many times more expensive.
Though, its your money. Do what you wish!
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#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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hsoverma
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I agree that'a a lot of money for a simple piece. I would love to spend less if I find something comperable without the glitz. I really dont think I need the fuses anyways. The whole reason I posted here was to get good input from all of you.
KingpinSVT, If you know of a 14.00 one that will do the job then please send me a link. I will definitely take up your advice on it.
Thanks!
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1998 SVT + Goodies
Hal's How To's
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hmouta
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i bought mine for amps install not for battery relocation. i was just pointing out 100 is alot for the same dist block
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Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
95 gl & 99 contour svt #1750/2760
my profile pics stuff for sale
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KingpinSVT
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Here are some choices:
http://www.sounddomain.com/shoptype/Distribution+Blocks
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#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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hsoverma
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OK, here is an update.
Thanks for the links KingpinSVT, I bought two of the Lightning Distribution Blocks for 13.95 -> hence your 14.00 solution.
They have not come yet... but I have already begun my modifications. Here is a pic of my removed battery holder
Then I sawed off the battery part with a hacksaw and cleaned it up and smoothed it out with my Dremel tool. The two brackets on the left will be put back into the car below the factory underhood fuse box to give it a place to mount to.
Now comes the cool part. I bought some 3" ID polished aluminum intake piping off ebay and some 3" hose interconnects. Then I put it together to make (hopefully) a CAI. I didn't put on any of the hose clamps yet since this was just a test-fitting. I have a little bracket that is going to hold it securely by the MAF using one of the old srewholes from the now-sawed battery holder. I will show this once I got it all figured out...
I will continue this as I get in more parts....
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1998 SVT + Goodies
Hal's How To's
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morbid
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If you keep the intake in it's current location... it'll be a double hot air intake.
1) It's still in the engine bay, right next to the potentially hot tranny.
2) It's right behind the radiator... so it'll be sucking hot air.
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morbid
2000 Contour SVT (black)
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DESIGN
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CEG'er
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yep, have it take another 90 into the fender area then heat wrap it.
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hsoverma
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You all are probably right about the intake setup, thanks for the constructive input.
But I have digressed too much already. This was supposed to be a battery relocation thread! I'll have more pics after the weekend when more hardware comes in...
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1998 SVT + Goodies
Hal's How To's
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morbid
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Looks like your battery/fuse trays are different than mine. Mine is a 2 part, with the battery tray attaching to the fuse tray, then bolting to the car. When I relocate mine, I'm planning on cutting off the battery tray portion from the fuse tray, and moving it over and bolting it down where the battery tray was bolted. That will give me lots of room to cut a hole for the intake ducting. If the bolt holes are in the same location, you might be able to just pick up the fusebox tray.
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morbid
2000 Contour SVT (black)
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wtf!? the battery bracket i pulled out of my car was cheap plastic!
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1999 Silver Frost SVT
#609 of 2760
Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
Yes you need a fuse or circuit breaker, at 150 amps. You also will need a distrabution block under the hood to connect the old wires to the new one.
A few notes on battery relocation:
First off, I'm not sure I'd do it again. By the time I paid for cable, distribution blocks, and stuff to mount the battery securely, it was getting expensive. Paying the extra money for a lightweight battery makes a lot of sense. However, as for the argument that the wiring is as heavy as the weight savings: I ran ~20 total feet of 4ga copper and it was no heavier than the stuff I was able to strip from under the hood. I also came up with a really nice, easy, elegant, and lightweight yet solid way to mount the battery in the trunk, so overall I feel good about the project.
But, like I said, I'm not sold on the idea: my car still weighs the same as before. Losing the weight for good would have been better. I also moved the weight farther from the center of the car, meaning it has MORE polar momentum, which kinda sucks. I'm thinking about getting a lightweight battery to put back there, and I think that's the ticket: relocate and lighten. But, another thought: put the battery right up againt the back seat. It may fit in the rear corner nicely, and it affects the weight balance more, but putting it closer to the center of the car is going to reduce your polar moment, which is very key in making a nimble car.
I ran one 4ga power wire and hooked it up with a distribution block to the hot stuff under the hood. Then I used two sheet metal screws - big ones - to bolt down the ground wires under the hood. I scraped the metal clean first, of course. I ran two grounds off the battery, one to the spare tire well, and one to some nice thick metal under the rear seat. I ran a fuse as well, but it's sort of a dumb thing: 150 amps of current is more than enough to eff something up seriously, and in order for the fuse to blow, you'd need a dead short, which isn't going to happen by accident. It's not a bad idea just in case, but it's also not a very good safeguard. With some high-po alternators, you might blow a 200A fuse just starting the car!
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-Philip Maynard
'95 Contour [71 STS | Track Whore]
'97 Miata [71 ES | Boulevard Pimp]
2006 autocross results
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morbid
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When I'm ready to do this, I'll wait for the next local "weigh day" so I can mess around with the placement while on corner weights. Guessing from my last weigh-in, if I move the battery to the rear passenger side, my cross weights should be nearly identical.
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morbid
2000 Contour SVT (black)
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Number47
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sorry to revive a "dead" thread but how many amp fuse should be use?? that is about the last question i have before i do my relocation
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00 Contour SVT Black
#557 of 2150
Fabricated Nov 24 1999
Currently unmoded
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150 works for me. I blew a 100 cranking the car.
Really, a fuse is dumb because pretty much anything bad that can happen (accidental shorts) won't be a great connection, so they won't pull 150 amps, and won't blow the fuse. But, there is always that one time where it gets clamped but good and a fuse would have helped, and they're cheap...
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-Philip Maynard
'95 Contour [71 STS | Track Whore]
'97 Miata [71 ES | Boulevard Pimp]
2006 autocross results
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