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to sand blast or not

thanks for all the help guys i think you all have summed ip everything that i've had to ask.

on a side not di dyou now sherwin williams wants $600 bucks for a gal of t-red paint (reducer included) :eek:. ALso they can put the t-red in a rattle can but i would haft to buy it a dozen at a time. for 12 bucks a piece.
 
thanks for all the help guys i think you all have summed ip everything that i've had to ask.

on a side not did you now Sherwin Williams wants $600 bucks for a gal of t-red paint (reducer included) :eek:. Also they can put the t-red in a rattle can but i would haft to buy it a dozen at a time. for 12 bucks a piece.
 
thanks for all the help guys i think you all have summed ip everything that i've had to ask.

on a side not did you now Sherwin Williams wants $600 bucks for a gal of t-red paint (reducer included) :eek:. Also they can put the t-red in a rattle can but i would haft to buy it a dozen at a time. for 12 bucks a piece.

That's really cheap for a red... Wow. To do a whole car the size of a contour, a gallon is cutting it kinda close. I used 5 quarts of black to do my car. I think I was cutting it kinda thin too, I probably should have used more, but that's all the black I had left.

Also, you would probably need upwards of 15 rattle cans to do a whole car and get a good 3 coats on. Rough estimate, I have done derby cars with rattle can paint and just a couple light coats took 10 cans.

Anyways, glad we could help. Remember though, practice practice practice.
 
In my opinion, spend a little extra coin and get 1 higher end gun. Just make sure you use the correct size needle for what you're spraying.

As for cost of material, that does sound fairly cheap/reasonable. You could however go my route with the single stage topcoat... Painted the truck for $240.


Do NOT use water!!! Water and bare metal equals rust and rust fast!! Which is the exact reason behind staying away from soda blasting and dipping. They pressure wash your bare metal with soap and water. :blackeye: Dumbest thing I've ever heard in the blasting industry!!

I agree with what you say, for the most part. I was pretty hesitant to use a soda blaster when I redid a truck my uncle gave me that I use for a dirtbike hauler and whatever else you need a truck for. A friend of mine has a soda blaster. He's done cars prior with it, and I did my truck with it. I sprayed it myself, and it's been 2 years and zero rust/problems. That's after 2 Erie, Pa winters. (I've kept a decent sealant and wax on it, more or less)

Not trying to go against what you're saying, just chiming in that I've had good luck blasting a full vehicle. I still probably would never have the guts to do a SVT though. My truck, different story...

Final_FrontQuarter.jpg
 
I'm sure there are people who have done it and have had what is, in their minds satisfactory results. Don't take it the wrong way because I'm not trying to undermine what you're saying about having decent luck with it. Things change, however, when standards are high and the cost of body work and paint is in the thousands rather than the hundreds.

I've been blasting for 12 years and have yet to see any soda blasting even come close to level of cleanliness that sand blasting is capable of. When you take that along with the facts that I pointed out earlier with the process of soda blasting or dipping it constantly begs the question, "Whats the point?" :shrug:

Heres a few projects:

pontiacrust2.jpg

pontiacclean2.jpg

roofrust.jpg

roofclean.jpg

impala1.jpg

impala2.jpg

impala3.jpg

impala4.jpg

Ford.jpg
 
That is a good point. My standards are obviously a lot lower caliber compared to restoring something like what you've shown above. Completely different prepping for a $300 job, compared to a $8,000+ job I agree. I'm glad I came across this thread as up to now I sort of thought soda blasting was the way to go, regardless the price point.

Just out of curiosity, what media was used on the vehicles above? Looks very nice.
 
Most people are surpised when I tell them that it was sand that was used. The question that typically follows is, "is it silica sand?"
The answer is no. Its a highly pulverized form of "Black Diamond", also called "Black Beauty". Where I'm located it has been outlawed to blast with silica sand unless it has been ran through a wash process to remove the harmful elements that are within its pure form. There isn't anyone real close to me that supplies it in it's washed form, so the shipping is more and when it's all said and done it isn't cost effective. Plus I havn't had very good luck with silica sand. I don't think it works as well.
If it is possible we will do a combo. Like with the Ford or the Impala. There was quite a bit of paint left on those cars. So they were hit with plastic first. That allows us not to have to dwell on certain areas so much trying to scrub the paint off. Sometimes glass bead comes into play but its very rare. The rusty Pontiac was all sand.

Keep in mind that I said this is an art form. Not everyone is able to have the patience it takes to do the job right and not twist the cars up. That why research is key in making sure you're project is taken to someone that has a good background and lots of references. Don't just trust anyone that blasts and says, "Of course I won't warp it." You're better off to take it to someone that is honest and tells you the areas that might be of concern when it comes to blasting.

Let me know if you have anymore questions. I'd be glad to answer them. :cool:
 
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