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Rotary vs. Orbital *need reply fast*

Guitarman19853

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
May 21, 2005
Messages
1,305
Location
Pittsburgh, Pa
What would be the benefits of using a rotary buffer/polished vs an orbital buffer/polisher? Is using the rotary that much more difficult for someone that has never touched such a tool before?

I need this response tonight because I bought a rotary buffer because it said it was an orbital on the store's display shelf. I want to start waxing tomorrow and I need to return this tonight if i do want to return it.
 
noone? that's depressing. Oh well. I'm taking the rotary back and getting this Craftsman 7" Orbital Buffer/Polisher. Hope it doesn't suck.

00910721000
 
Random-orbitals are safe for consumers... rotaries are not.

What you've got pictured is a low-end random-orbital... basically a motorized applicator.

If you really want a nice polisher, get a Porter-Cable 7424 or 7336... the detailing geek sites have them, such as detailersparadise.com... but by the time you get a nice assortment of pads, you're pushing 2 bills... but it's worth it if you appreciate fine tools.

Most car care can be done by hand, unless your'e dealing with defect removal.
 
Basically what JimD said.

I would add that with practice and proper technique, a rotary can be a safe and far quicker way to correct blemishes. Autopia.org has everything you want to know.
 
Well we'll see if it can buff off the coat of sealant that has been sitting overnight. I'm not really interested in defect removal (yet) but I imagine that this would still do a better job at that then by hand. I realize that the bonnets can bunch up and come off, but i've seen someone say to take this one, attach velcro to the bottom and you can use any of the pads for the PC.

Doing it by hand is fine if you are doing one coat of easy on-easy off wax. But normally I layer 2 - 3 coats of Klasse Sealant Glaze on the car which is not an easy wax to buff off by hand. So in that sense, I have no problem paying 1/5 the cost of the PC to get the job done.

Someday I may get a good tool, but right now I can't afford it.
 
Basically what JimD said.

I would add that with practice and proper technique, a rotary can be a safe and far quicker way to correct blemishes. Autopia.org has everything you want to know.

Yea, but there is a greater risk for someone that doesn't know the proper technique to burn through the paint. In the end, I didn't want to take that risk.
 
I'm not that familiar with Klasse High Gloss Sealant, I've read some info that indicates it's easier to buff off the longer it dries. I'd be willing to wager that your 2-3 coats is the problem.

For most "normal" (over the counter) products, I think it's best removed by hand to avoid just what you mentioned here... bunching of the pad or bonnet, and running a risk of marring.

Even if you attach velcro to the bottom of this machine, it doesn't have the power of a Porter-Cable, so it might not do any defect removal if and when you need to do it.
 
Actually even the product sheet that came with it recommends layering coats of the product. Do a search on here (old forums I think) and you'll find posts about layering Klasse). I also allow a minimum of 10 hours drying time in between applying and buffing off. Last night I put on a coat at 6 and buffed it off at 10 this morning. Thats 16 hours of drying time and remember that this was only one coat and it didn't come off any easier by hand (tested one panel by hand). It was so much easier with the buffer.

As for a lack of power, no amount of pressure I put on it stopped it. It kept running.

As for using "normal" OTC products, I don't use them (not wax anyways) so that point doesn't apply.

For a product that comes off easily (1 wipe or so like my Pinnacle Signature Series carnauba), then removing by hand is quicker. But for a product like Klasse where you could wipe it 10 times and still have product on the car and you need something a bit more, then this buffer is perfect.

Can I ask why everyone seems to have a stick up their rear when it comes to detailing? Specifically buffers? I got the same kind of responses in a previous thread. Certainly everyone doesn't use the PC (or similar high quality buffers). And I know thats a fact because in response to my last thread, a CEGer PM'd me and said that he had great results with one of the cheaper buffers like the one I got. But he didn't to post it in the thread because of the whole "do it with a PC or do it by hand" mentality. Realize that everyone has different applications and needs for such a tool. If someone really needed to do some serious defect removal, then yes, I'd say go for a PC Orbital or even a rotary buffer (if they have the experience). But if someone just wants a wax removal tool (and there are situations where this is needed such as Klasse), they certainly don't need to spend $150 on a buffer.
 
i have the craftsman and its good at what u want it to do. i havent had a pad come off yet. it spins alittle slow so if ur going to try and take defects you have to get a heavier grit polish and press down alittle. i did one rear panel and it looks good. didnt take out all the defects but it did make it really smooth. i like it but i will probally get the pc if and only if i get new paint.

just remember to move it quickly or it leaves swirls

im not afraid of the pc lovers and the hate i will recieve
 
Can I ask why everyone seems to have a stick up their rear when it comes to detailing? Specifically buffers? I got the same kind of responses in a previous thread. Certainly everyone doesn't use the PC (or similar high quality buffers). And I know thats a fact because in response to my last thread, a CEGer PM'd me and said that he had great results with one of the cheaper buffers like the one I got. But he didn't to post it in the thread because of the whole "do it with a PC or do it by hand" mentality. Realize that everyone has different applications and needs for such a tool. If someone really needed to do some serious defect removal, then yes, I'd say go for a PC Orbital or even a rotary buffer (if they have the experience). But if someone just wants a wax removal tool (and there are situations where this is needed such as Klasse), they certainly don't need to spend $150 on a buffer.

No stick here :D

I only paid $100 for my PC and with something like that you can do product removal (like what you were needing) and then do some serious polishing also when the time comes down the road. Now that I think about it, after backing plate and pads, you would be at $150, so never mind.

Anywho, I just did my 2nd coat of SG after 1 coat of AIO (all done by hand) and (if you don't already know this) use a slightly damp applicator, microfiber or whatever, to help thinly spread around the SG. Then for removal use terry cloth instead of microfiber. I had a very easy time doing it that way. It was as easy to remove as the avg wax. HTH.
 
Actually even the product sheet that came with it recommends layering coats of the product. Do a search on here (old forums I think) and you'll find posts about layering Klasse). I also allow a minimum of 10 hours drying time in between applying and buffing off. Last night I put on a coat at 6 and buffed it off at 10 this morning. Thats 16 hours of drying time and remember that this was only one coat and it didn't come off any easier by hand (tested one panel by hand). It was so much easier with the buffer.

As for a lack of power, no amount of pressure I put on it stopped it. It kept running.

As for using "normal" OTC products, I don't use them (not wax anyways) so that point doesn't apply.

For a product that comes off easily (1 wipe or so like my Pinnacle Signature Series carnauba), then removing by hand is quicker. But for a product like Klasse where you could wipe it 10 times and still have product on the car and you need something a bit more, then this buffer is perfect.

Can I ask why everyone seems to have a stick up their rear when it comes to detailing? Specifically buffers? I got the same kind of responses in a previous thread. Certainly everyone doesn't use the PC (or similar high quality buffers). And I know thats a fact because in response to my last thread, a CEGer PM'd me and said that he had great results with one of the cheaper buffers like the one I got. But he didn't to post it in the thread because of the whole "do it with a PC or do it by hand" mentality. Realize that everyone has different applications and needs for such a tool. If someone really needed to do some serious defect removal, then yes, I'd say go for a PC Orbital or even a rotary buffer (if they have the experience). But if someone just wants a wax removal tool (and there are situations where this is needed such as Klasse), they certainly don't need to spend $150 on a buffer.

Are you talking drying time or curing time???
You don't need to leave it on the car for 12 hours, just don't apply anything on top of it for 12 hours...
 
Are you talking drying time or curing time???
You don't need to leave it on the car for 12 hours, just don't apply anything on top of it for 12 hours...
Actually, you do need to leave it on the car for 8-10 hours

http://www.autogeek.net/klasse-usa.html

"Feel free to apply as many coats as you like. High Gloss Sealant Glaze will not yellow or discolor your vehicle. Wait 8-12 hours before applying another coat."

"Tip: Let High Gloss Sealant Glaze set on your vehicle for as long as possible. At least 8 to 12 hours is recommended. Remember, the best things come to those who wait!"
 
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