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For Sale reinforced rear sub

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svtfixer

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
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697
Location
Yonkers, NY
Reinforced rear sub with brackets and bushings as shown. Bat bar is not included. The subframe was sandblasted, welded and painted. 275 and shipping. may potentially take a core in partial trade.











 
Those comments will not be tolerated. If you have something to say to the seller, PM him.
First and last warning.
 
Sorry guys. I wasn't more specific with my reasoning and therefor I can see where a misunderstanding could ensue.
This was a "behind the scenes" issue and has been rectified.
 
Ahem Ok those welds are incorrect and pose a safety hazard. I was a Union Pipe-welder and just from those pics i see whats called undercut or melted away metal. Furthermore you can see the that bead is not tied in at some points (prob because a good ground was not established on the sub-frame and the wielding machine (not tied in) and someone tried to compensate by turning the voltage up and caused undercut. Furthermore you can see that the peace was overheated and was warped form the heat from unsymmetrical beads that was applied to it (Beads that were run on only one side not he other). Im not trying to "Flame" in this post im just trying to look out for my SVT brothers and sisters.
 
the voltage was not turned up to compensate. it is not mig, it is arc welded. it was put on the car and driven to make sure it both fit and weren't any problems with it. i have had several done and in use and none have broken.

I actually had one of these on my first Svt for about 6 years now. Instead of comparing these to submarine standards let's compare it to a stock subframe which are doomed to fail. These are stronger and proven.
 
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Personally and professionally, I wouldn't use, nor sell that subframe, especially without noting that you make no warranty and take no responsibility for damages/accidents/injury, etc.

From what I can see in your pictures, most of those welds have a great deal of lack of fusion (cold lap / overlap), and I see quite a bit of undercut. I'm not judging these welds based on any code or standard, but those discontinuities are clearly observable.

Notice how the factory welds are smooth and the edges (toes) transition into the parent material? That's what you want to shoot for. All of that cold lap and undercut poses the potential risk for failure because they are stress risers. If, say, one of those welds saw enough localized stress, there's potential for a crack to initiate, propagate, and lead to a failure. It may not be a catastrophic failure, you may not even notice it, but that isn't a risk I would be willing to take with my own cars, nor would I take that risk on a fellow enthusiast's vehicle.

I believe it important to share this information to our fellow enthusiasts to prevent any accidents, injury, or worse. I hope you see it that way too.

All of that being said, if you have questions regarding welding or welding education, please feel free to contact myself. I know there are a few more experienced members who have or still do perform fabrication work. Sometimes the internet can be extremely judgmental and opinionated, especially when it comes to welding. I'll do my best to stay unbiased and friendly.
 
Ok, no further comments are needed regarding the quality of the welds or workmanship at this point. Future posts in this thread are to be related only to the sale and purchase of this subframe.


Dave

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