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possible solution to "new style" TSS issue

compudude86

CEG'er
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Messages
414
Location
Algonquin, IL
alright, I had to remove my old TSS, and it broke in half a dozen pieces, and had to be extracted. so I got my new one, and I was looking at it. as I understand, the new one has a weaker magnetic field on it. I can kinda see why they did this, as I am sure steel particles that come loose inside the trans would stick to the magnet pole piece and probably alter readings. I noticed this new sensor has a much thicker mounting "pad" on it. this may be part of the issue. I remember reading that when something in there wears, that "reverse drum" the sensor picks up on moves farther back and alters readings. later today, I am going to use my depth gauge on my mic to figure out how far into the bore it goes before contacting that part, and then I am going to mic out how long the TSS from the pad to the tip is. I have also read something about the maximum air gap should not exceed .030".

my theory, and I could be wrong, is that one could remedy this problem by shaving a bit off the back of the "pad" on the sensor, the side that sits flush against the pump housing, to allow the sensor to go in a bit further than it already does now, this should bring the sensor in closer to the drum, which in turn should pick up better than before.

Also, if anyone has managed to get the old style TSS out in one piece, and they have a vernier micrometer, if they could measure from the pole piece tip to where the body sits against the pump housing, that would help as well.
 
Thinking simple 2 wire proximity sensor. Your numbers probably about right, I like to use .010"-.015" nominal when whatever is swinging by cannot move closer to strike, but wear at thrust washers will definitely change over life of trans. I'd go for .020" plus. If you got access to a simply analog needle type VOM then you can check output on DC thinking, the needle will bump every time the steel swings by. If consistently doing that you're good enough to run well. How I check 2 wire cam and crank sensors too. 3 wire are harder, you have to have power for the Hall effect transistor.

I believe the reverse HUB has the four prongs that get read, IIRC. Thinking that hub is the part that also must index in correctly to the oil holes or a bushing in there tears up really quick. Ford manual I had said nothing about it. I remember marking magic marker on something in there to check for line up.
 
Are you having a real problem with the new tss or are you over thinking a non issue?

Are you having a real problem with the new tss or are you over thinking a non issue?

Have you put the new tss with the NEW supplied longer bolt in your car? If like just about every one of us the new tss works just fine so why would you be worried about the fundamental reasons behind the change?
 
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