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P0172 and P0175. No recent changes/modifications to the car. Any ideas?

AGrayson84

CEG'er
Joined
Aug 20, 2013
Messages
329
Location
Annapolis, MD
Hi everyone. I went through the forum and saw several threads regarding these two codes --P0172 and P0175 (System Too Rich, Bank 1 and 2)-- but I'm not seeing the OP coming back on the thread and mentioning if they were able to fix the problem. Here's the specifics on my car:

'98 CSVT with full 3L with COP out of a 2004 Taurus. The engine likely has under 90k miles at this point (I don't have any solid records on the engine from the previous owners). I have been running Shell 93 octane for the past 10 months of owning it. The car has a Superchips 4-bank eliminator with some sort of minimal tune on it (it seems to add timing below 4k RPM to compensate for not having secondary intake runners with butterflies like the stock 2.5L intake), and the tune turns off the EGR and DPFE codes since those are blocked off. I replaced one of the front O2 sensors since the other front O2 sensor looked relatively new, and the other looked like the it was an original Motorcraft.

The car used to surge under full throttle once in a while when I first got the car, and when the temperature dropped to the 20's or below during winter months the engine would crank over but not start. Spark and fuel didn't seem to be a problem, and then my mechanic-friend and I discovered a few issues-- a hose the connects from the solenoid purge valve on the firewall (for fuel ventilation) to the intake manifold was slit open and barely connected to the hose fitting on the solenoid purge valve, the MAF was shot, and the spark plugs were shot. I replaced the hose going to the purge valve, replaced the purge valve itself with a new Motorcraft one, replaced the spark plugs with Autolite Platinum plugs, and the MAF was replaced with a remanufactured OEM MAF. The car ran GREAT after this. Acceleration and idle felt so much smoother than before, and I was no longer experiencing the surging nor the cold-start problems.

A few thousand miles later, after everything had been running great, I added some Lucas fuel system cleaner to a full tank of fuel. I have always used the smaller bottle of this stuff, but this time I used the slightly larger bottle, which is good for up to 30 gallons of fuel. A little potency shouldn't hurt, right?

It wasn't until I got close to finishing off that same tank of gas that I got these two DTC's. I finished off the tank, filled it back up with Shell 93, and after about 50 miles of driving on the new tank of gas I cleared the codes, only for them to come back a short while later. Now, maybe that fuel system cleaner has nothing to do with my problem, but that was the last thing I did in a several months before these codes came up.

My MPG have been way better than ever before. I previously saw 19-20 MPG on average, and maybe 21 MPG if I was really lucky. I calculated 25.9 MPG just two weeks ago, about 1 month after these codes popped up. Other than the increased MPG, I don't seem to have any other symptoms. No idling issues, no acceleration issues, no hesitation or surging... nothing.

Any ideas/suggestions???

Thanks!,
Andrew
 
Intake gaskets could be leaking, O2 sensors could have a problem, there could be a wiring harness issue.

Hi Don, thank you very much for your assistance as always. I was also thinking it could be the intake gaskets. This winter when it was in the freezing temperatures here (too cold and too dark for me to work on my car outside once I got off work) I had a shop replace my spark plugs. I'm wondering if they re-used the UIM to LIM gaskets instead of buying new ones. I'll order a new gasket set and see if that resolves the issue!

One thing I'm trying to get my head wrapped around is how an intake leak would cause a "too rich" situation. I would think you could only get a lean situation when the intake leaks and introduces un-metered air into the combustion chambers. What am I missing? Haha. Thanks again!

-Andrew
 
Hard to say, intake leaks cause all sorts of issues, even worse if an O2 sensor is going bad.

Intake gaskets are not necessary when replacing plugs. You can get to them with little problem.
 
OK I'll definitely start with the intake manifold gaskets, because at least with my full 3L my mechanic friend decided to remove the upper intake manifold to do the rear plugs. Since I just put that new Bosch one one of the front banks and the other front bank had a relatively recent Bosch in it when I crawled under the car late last year, I'm going to assume they both didn't go bad at the same time. Going to pick up some UIM gaskets and check for visible leaks between the MAF and LIM. Let ya know what I find out! Thanks Don!
 
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