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O2 Extensions

SvtTour98.5-3

CEG'er
Joined
Aug 20, 2002
Messages
56
Location
Bloomfield Hills, MI
Ok, so the problem I have is that before the end of the year last year, I bought new front O2's. They are NTK (brand of NGK). I only kept them because I got a smokin deal on them ($80 shipped overnight directly from NGK for the pair). I also have MSDA headers. The problem I have is that the wires are too short to put them into the correct locations in the headers for the correct bank readings.

My question: Do they sell extensions for the B1 and B2 front O2's on our cars? I've found some square "universal" extensions on like summit but wanted to get other peoples opinions before buying them.

I know if I don't get them in the right locations, my fuel trims won't be correct for the banks and I'm also seeing that in my data logs versus my wideband.

TIA,
Dale
 
Cut your original O2 sensor's plug and wire and splice them into your new sensors. Plug and play after that.
 
That was to be my last resort. I once heard somewhere that some of the leads from the sensor itself were insulated and shouldn't be spliced. Must not be the case here then.

Thanks Demon!!
 
The wires have a covering over them so just make sure it covers up as much of the wiring as possible when finished splicing. It shouldn't be a problem though.
 
Just so we all know what I mean by "splicing"

Slide the exposed wires into each other. Compress with fingers. Solder the entire exposed wire. Heat shrink. (Remember heatshrink has to go on first ;) )
 
Good to hear. Unfortunately far too many people would just use crimp butt connectors or worse and then just tape over the mess. Heck not even tape over it.

I was taught to twist the wires together (linear splice), then solder the connection. Is it now acceptable to simply push the multi-strand wires together and solder??
 
I was taught to twist the wires together (linear splice), then solder the connection. Is it now acceptable to simply push the multi-strand wires together and solder??
You mean to run the ends parallel and twist together? That method is definitely acceptable. The current is just going to ignore most of the wire past the point they first touch. Path of least resistance and all. This method is perfect when working in tight spaces.

When room is not a factor I try to mimic the original wire and thus a straight connection. Yes twisting it would give it marginally greater load strength. However electrical wire does not support a physical load nor should it ever.


For ref - When splicing in an additional wire I strip a small section of the original and then twist the new lead around the original and solder. Then tape of course.
 
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