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Motorcraft or Castrol oil?

M

Myrosia

CEG'er
Joined
May 27, 2003
Messages
171
Location
Shelby Twp, Michigan
1999 Contour, 2.0, 4cyl, Zetec, Vin 3, 165.000 miles

There has been a leak in the rear main seal that started last fall. Very little and not much I was worried about.

I've always been running Motorcraft 5x20 semisynthetic oil along with Motorcraft FL-400-S.

2 weeks ago, I was suggested to use Castrol GTX High Mileage 5x30. So, I went along and had them change the oil.

The next few days I noticed and INCREASE in oil leak on my drive. Actually quite a lot. I looked at the underbelly and it's leaking the same place as last fall but more. Then I noticed that there was a Fram oil filter instead of the Motorcraft FL-400-S I always use.

Oh another thing, there is now some oil in the air filter cabinet.

Question:

1. is it a coincidence my leak is worst?

2. should I keep with the Castrol?

3. should I switch back to the Motorcraft filter?
 
1. Not really. Different oils have different cleaning packages so the new oil probably cleaned up a deposit that had been sealing a leak.

2. MC oil is a bargain as a heavy duty synthetic blend so I'd go back to it.

3. Definitely go back to MC. They are a bargain for how good of a filter they are especially when compared to how cheap Fram filters are put together.
 
Dyoel182 said:
1. Not really. Different oils have different cleaning packages so the new oil probably cleaned up a deposit that had been sealing a leak.

2. MC oil is a bargain as a heavy duty synthetic blend so I'd go back to it.

3. Definitely go back to MC. They are a bargain for how good of a filter they are especially when compared to how cheap Fram filters are put together.
Click to expand...

Is there any additive of any sort I should use to try and seal the leak? Lucas, Bar's leak, etc?

Also, I have this ticking thing going on.
 
You have been using Motorcraft 5w20? 5w30 is recommended...

Also, Zetec tick is rather normal. Don't worry too much about it.
 
Most of the "high mileage" oils have more seal swellers than oil formulated for newer engines, but at 165K miles with a crank seal going bad, the leak is bound to get worse, probably no matter what you do, unless you drop the trans and flywheel and change the rear seal.

You can try some of the oil additives, but I've never seen them accomplish much besides lightening your wallet.

Additionally, I wouldn't run a 20 hot viscosity in that engine, I'd run a 30 hot, maybe even a 40 in the summer if the rod bearings are original.
 
gmorrell said:
Most of the "high mileage" oils have more seal swellers than oil formulated for newer engines, but at 165K miles with a crank seal going bad, the leak is bound to get worse, probably no matter what you do, unless you drop the trans and flywheel and change the rear seal.

You can try some of the oil additives, but I've never seen them accomplish much besides lightening your wallet.

Additionally, I wouldn't run a 20 hot viscosity in that engine, I'd run a 30 hot, maybe even a 40 in the summer if the rod bearings are original.
Click to expand...
why, I ran 5w30 in my old Zetec all the way up to point i pulled it, because the clutch went, with 241K miles and it never made so much as a noise (other than the standard Zetec lifter tick).
 
Myrosia said:
Is there any additive of any sort I should use to try and seal the leak? Lucas, Bar's leak, etc?
Click to expand...

Honestly I wouldn't add any of them to a quality oil like MC. The only additive I use is auto-rx which could help with that leak but its mostly a deep cleaner.
 
I've used some of those additives said to seal up oil leaks. If it's minor they can help but as an engine wears the seals wear and nothing will stop a oil leak at a seal except a new seal.

I have 101K on my SVT and it has a leak at the crank pully seal. I may look at replacing this one if I can change it with the engine in the car. If not then I'll wait intill it gets alot worse before I change it.

I suggest you try 5W-30. With the miles on your engine the thicker oil should help.
 
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