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Car stripping and new Paint!

Q

qbcsvt

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Oct 12, 2006
Messages
3,145
Location
Up North New Jersey
I would like to state my process for future reference for CEG. I would also like some reassurance from those that are experienced. This is my first big job and I chose a car to start learning :shrug:.

40 grit (strip off paint), 80 Grit (smoothen), 100 Grit (ready for primer)

I am using a Dual Action 6" sander using 3M Red Abrasive Discs.

Current Progress:
StrippinMyJoint_20091119_9.jpg

StrippinMyJoint_20091119_9_1.jpg

StrippinMyJoint_20091119_9_4.jpg


Thanks for the help and reassurance!

- Amyn
 
Why the hell would you sand the car all the way down to bare metal! :nonono: Those scratches are so deep in the pics that you just made 10x the work for yourself. Another thing that confuses me is that you stripped your entire interior so you can paint in there but you didn't remove the rubber window track or windows in the doors and you just masked that off :nonono:. Did you do any research about painting a car and how to prep a pre-painted auto?

Was the body on your car rusting through the paint? Probably not, the factory paint is some of the toughest paint out there and is the best base for a new paint job. All you had to do was scuff the clear with the DA or by hand. :confused: You honestly exposed the metal now to the environment and will have a higher risk of having the new paint rust through.


Not trying to be a dick, I'm just stating some obvious problems....
 
At the point you have the car you need to get it covered asap. I would suggest a good metal prep cleaner to clean and etch the bare metal, a good zinc based primer, a contrasting color primer second coat, 220 sand the second coat of primer with a good sanding block to find high and low spots, repair accordingly, primer, 220 sand, use a good wipe down with a prep solvent, tack rag it shoot the base coat and clear coat it.

Cliffs notes version of the process to complete the job.

I agree with Joe, if the factory paint was in good shape all you needed to do was sand the car with a 220 or higher to get an even starting point for the new paint to adhere to. You should sand to the base coat to get a good bite on the factory base coat.
 
I agree - get it covered, get that room air tight, and turn a dehumidifier on.
 
if you want to strip all the paint off use a chemical stripped. that is what the shop did with my car at my request on the hood, rood and trunk lid as there where spots that where damaged in the paint. orther wise scuff up, prep and paint.
 
Thanks for the critisizms. I have been at an autobody shop watching and learning asking questions and such. Most of the classic, hot rods, and legit cars they do, they strip down all the paint and then primer paint and all that good stuff.

I saw that most of the new cars they simply sand with a DA and paint over the original primer. I understood that it will be something that I have to do fast. I am working on it and already have some of the money saved up for the paint.

- amyn
 
That is actually good to hear and you have some direction. Most "hot rodders" are taking the bodies all the way down to bare metal because they are looking for previous cobb-job bondo work from previous owners because they don't want hidden cancer(rust) to pop through the bondo in a few years. It was not necessary for your car really, but I guess it will have to do now.

I can't wait to see it change colors!

PS, do not continue to sand the plastics like that(door handles, bumpers, skirts, etc..) You are just making more work for yourself.
 
I wasn'y being critical, just answering your question. I have always gone down to bare metal when changing colors or redoing an older vehicle.
 
CollinsPC said:
I wasn'y being critical, just answering your question. I have always gone down to bare metal when changing colors or redoing an older vehicle.
Click to expand...

So can you state your process so I can compare to what I like more later on down the line? Right now im going 40, 80, 100 Grit. I am unsure of what type of primer it is going to be.

But I can say i trust my auto body shop 100%. He has been nothing but a friend to me since I first met him. First because I needed his help. But after business we kept in touch and he is a couple blocks from my house so I chill there when I want to learn some new things!

- amyn
 
i agree with blu fuz and the others. taking it down that far is wasteful. you could have had the car done in the time it was stripped. or if you insist on stripping it a chemical stripper would have been a better idea
 
well I have already got the majority of the car done. One side in whole. I have to work on the other side and the roof now.

Should be able to get A LOT done Wed and Thursday Morning.

I may ask about the stripper for the remaining parts..... I am also unsure what I should do in regard to the door jambs. Should I remove my doors? and such Please advise!

- amyn
 
whole car can be very time consuming. you can do just as good of a job without stripping all the paint off the chassis. but its your time/...:shrug:
 
98svtclone said:
whole car can be very time consuming. you can do just as good of a job without stripping all the paint off the chassis. but its your time/...:shrug:
Click to expand...

A couple extra days doesnt hurt me..... The car isnt going to be up for a while anyways. I am looking for the BEST WAY to do go about this. I dont mind the time or money spent on it.

- amyn
 
well you can strip it all down if you want, strip the car down to a bare metal unibody and strip it. or sandblast would work as well
 
Gonna continue with the 40 grit.... I got my fenders done 40 grit, 80 then 100 and took it to 3 shops and all of them said it was ready for primer.... Also my body shop said it looks all good!!!!

- amyn
 
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