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Buying a Contour SVT... anything to look out for? Good websites for aftermarket parts?

A

AGrayson84

CEG'er
Joined
Aug 20, 2013
Messages
329
Location
Annapolis, MD
Hi everyone! I'm looking to purchase a Contour SVT this weekend, trying to narrow down a few I'm looking at, and was wanting to know if there is anything I should look for on these cars that is a "SOB" to fix. Aside from a possible worn clutch I'm not sure if these cars are prone to any sort of problems that I need to keep an eye out for. The dash warp issue doesn't bother me since that can be repaired.

Also, can anyone provide some websites that sell aftermarket parts and accessories for this car? I'm looking for cosmetic upgrades, maintenance items, drive-train and suspension upgrades, etc. I would definitely like to paint the chrome grille insert surrounding to match the car's paint (I want either Silver Frost of Black), and maybe do a mesh grill and front lower air damn.

As time goes by I'll get around to doing some drive-train and suspension mods (check out my post in the newbie section for details on my old '92 Taurus SHO and my twin turbo 2005 GTO... I don't like to "leave things alone" haha).

Thanks!,
Andrew
 
Pretty much everything on this platform is a SOB to fix until you've been wrenching on them for a while. People that are new to the V6 Duratec open the hood and immediately have an aneurysm. After 11 years, it's a breeze to me, though.

Clutch-transaxle jobs are probably the worst, no matter how savvy you become.
 
Alternator, water pump, and fuel pump issues are fairly common as well. Like B3NN3TT said, its a sharp learning curve with this car. IMO, its worth the hassle because these cars are just so dang fun to drive.
 
Buying a Contour SVT... anything to look out for? Good websites for aftermark...

Buying a Contour SVT... anything to look out for? Good websites for aftermark...

I think starting out with something clean will be a huge help in easing into the csvt platform. So many cars have been beat on and left out to dry. Keep in mind that finding parts these days to replace worn items is getting harder and harder.

Good luck with your search!
 
Some things that would impact my decision whether to buy or pass on an SVT:
- Transmission. 3rd gear syncro grind is pretty common but others have been known to grind to. If its been taken care of, it should be fine.
- Maintenance records. I like to have the confidence that maintenance has been properly done when it comes to engine/transmission flushes and what has been previously replaced on the car.
- Check Engine Light. This is likely on. I would have the codes pulled to see exactly what is wrong.
- Interior. I'm picky about this. Look at condition of seats, carpet, floormats (if they are still with the car), sunroof. I typically think if someone trashes the interior and lets the leather and carpet go to crap, then they probably aren't doing the necessary maintenance on the powertrain either.
- Exterior. Look for missing jack covers, curbed wheels, curb rash on front bumper, dents, crows feet in the paint. Again, things that tell me how the car has been treated over the years.
- Body rust. Rust near the rocker panels, underneath the doors, and rear quarters are where I would look.
 
If you're looking at a northern car, also check the rear subframe and suspension components for rust as well. Replacing rusted suspension parts is not a fun thing to do...
 
Thanks VERY MUCH for all of the replies and useful information guys! I have narrowed it down to a very clean '99 in Torreador Red with Midnight Blue interior. Has a 60k miles 3.0 swap, 18k new transmission and clutch, and several other mods. Should be in my hands by Monday. Has a tad of rust on the rear quarter that can be repaired, but has been meticulously maintained.

beyondloadedSE said:
Some things that would impact my decision whether to buy or pass on an SVT:
- Transmission. 3rd gear syncro grind is pretty common but others have been known to grind to. If its been taken care of, it should be fine.
- Maintenance records. I like to have the confidence that maintenance has been properly done when it comes to engine/transmission flushes and what has been previously replaced on the car.
- Check Engine Light. This is likely on. I would have the codes pulled to see exactly what is wrong.
- Interior. I'm picky about this. Look at condition of seats, carpet, floormats (if they are still with the car), sunroof. I typically think if someone trashes the interior and lets the leather and carpet go to crap, then they probably aren't doing the necessary maintenance on the powertrain either.
- Exterior. Look for missing jack covers, curbed wheels, curb rash on front bumper, dents, crows feet in the paint. Again, things that tell me how the car has been treated over the years.
- Body rust. Rust near the rocker panels, underneath the doors, and rear quarters are where I would look.
Click to expand...

You sound like me, very picky! And by no means is that a bad thing! :) I have the same outlook on things as you. The car is very clean inside and out, and no check engine lights :)

I've very mechanically inclined. Have done a motor swap in my '92 Taurus SHO, have removed and installed engines and transmissions in a few vehicles I've owned, rebuilt the 5-speed in my '92 SHO, have assembled engines starting with a bare block... so while I don't look forward to the day this car needs some repairs, I'll certainly be capable of fixing things on my own. I haven't taken ANY of my vehicles to a shop for work since 2004 (when I got ripped off by paying $320 for two O2 sensors with installation, only to find out 2 weeks later that the car still had the 4 original O2 sensors), and plan on keeping it that way :)

Thanks again fellas, and hope to be able to talk with you all again here once I get the car on the road!
 
AGrayson84 said:
Thanks VERY MUCH for all of the replies and useful information guys! I have narrowed it down to a very clean '99 in Torreador Red with Midnight Blue interior. Has a 60k miles 3.0 swap, 18k new transmission and clutch, and several other mods. Should be in my hands by Monday. Has a tad of rust on the rear quarter that can be repaired, but has been meticulously maintained.
Click to expand...

Double check the year on that. If I'm not mistaken, MNB interior was only in T-Red cars in 1998, unless this car has been swapped.
 
Oh crap, I totally didn't notice. You're absolutely right, it's a 1998. Other than the 5 hp engine difference (which is erroneous now that it has a 3L) are there any other differences? I heard that the '99/00 has a hair of a bigger fuel tank, revised leg room for the rear seat, and revised synchro's for the transmission. Anything else I'm missing?
 
AGrayson84 said:
Oh crap, I totally didn't notice. You're absolutely right, it's a 1998. Other than the 5 hp engine difference (which is erroneous now that it has a 3L) are there any other differences? I heard that the '99/00 has a hair of a bigger fuel tank, revised leg room for the rear seat, and revised synchro's for the transmission. Anything else I'm missing?
Click to expand...

Biggest difference I can recall between 98 E1's and 99/00 is the dashboard and a switch to a returnless fuel system in mid-99. Biggest differences are seen between E0 and E1...
 
Yes, good link. That '98.5 change to "E1" might include more detail on the "ding gard" changes (From E0 to E1). The "ding gard" became wider with the advent of the '98.5 "E1" SVT. Obvious to most, but not near so as much as the switch from the "E0" Cosworth style wheels to the "E1" Shelby style wheels. I have included a link to an article you may find interesting. MT claims revised shock calibration with the "E1"..... http://www.motortrend.com/auto_news/112_9809_ford_contour_svt_mercury_villager/viewall.html
 
If you are looking for some aftermarket parts I.E. Throttle Body Optimization, Solid Subframe Bushings etc Josh (Pole120) over at PRT is always a good guy to go to. PRTAUTOSPORT.com
 
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