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Best Tune?

If you can get your hands on a cheap Xcal2 then a $75 mail order tune from Brenspeed will do exactly what you need it to do.
 
he has high compression pistons so im sure he wants to bring the fans on a little sooner to help keep the coolant temps a little lower, just to be on the safe side.
 
Redlineracer12 said:
With that level of modifications I'd shoot for a dyno tune at a competent shop.
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I always thought that you were supposed to get a good street tune before you got a dyno tune? The dyno tune is just for numbers/fine tweaks, and the street tune is what makes the car really drivable.

Of course I could be mistaken
 
bhiggs89 said:
I always thought that you were supposed to get a good street tune before you got a dyno tune? The dyno tune is just for numbers/fine tweaks, and the street tune is what makes the car really drivable.
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Half the point of a dyno tune is getting a solid street tune set without actually being out on the street.
 
Dyoel182 said:
Half the point of a dyno tune is getting a solid street tune set without actually being out on the street.
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Assuming that it is a eddy current load bearing dyno this is true, there really is NO substitute for a good street tune as far as drive-ability is concerned.
 
BrApple said:
why is lowering the fan setting a must?
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30,000 miles ago I rebuilt the engine and 2 of my pistons melted on their sides.(Looks like they expanded/scuffed in the cylinder walls..pretty ugly) Minimal melting ,but enough to make me loose compression and to blow the head gasket. I ended up with coolant in both my exhaust and my intake manifold. Eventually the car stopped working and would only crank but not start. Had fuel and ignition , so the compression was really low. Having the low speed fans kick on at 212F and +230F for high is way high in my opinion. Hondas run at about 195F for low and 210F for high. I have about 100 miles on this recent rebuild and I want to play it safe. In addition , I have seen the coolant starting to boil at 212F in the expansion tank , so that can't be good.
 
Dyoel182 said:
Half the point of a dyno tune is getting a solid street tune set without actually being out on the street.
Click to expand...

So the best thing for my application would be a dyno tune? My car is drivable and seems fine , I just want to get the full benefits of my parts.
Am I going to need a programable computer? It would be nice to have like 2 setting which could change with the flick of a button or revert back to stock mode . My friend had something like this on his Mustang.
Any ideas how much would I be looking at?
 
striker2 said:
if the coolant is boiling in the tank then the cap isnt holding pressure.
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I'll try changing it. Is there supposed to be a coolant relieve sound(like when you open a can o pepsi) when you open the cap? On my last expansion tank/cap I heard a sound like that every time I would open the cap. Or at least after the car would run for a bit. Hope it's not air in the cooling system . I did follow your method and opened the cap while reving the engine to help the system push the air out.:shrug:
 
yeah, the system should be under pressure after running for a bit. if its not then there is either a leak somewhere (would show coolant leaking) or the cap is bad. increasing the pressure increases the boiling point.
 
acontour said:
So the best thing for my application would be a dyno tune? My car is drivable and seems fine , I just want to get the full benefits of my parts.
Am I going to need a programable computer? It would be nice to have like 2 setting which could change with the flick of a button or revert back to stock mode . My friend had something like this on his Mustang.
Any ideas how much would I be looking at?
Click to expand...

The BEST thing for your application would be a good street tune for idle/part throttle drivability AND a dyno tune for WOT fine tuning. Honestly though, a good dyno tune will get you close to happy with the setup.
 
SkullV said:
The BEST thing for your application would be a good street tune for idle/part throttle drivability AND a dyno tune for WOT fine tuning. Honestly though, a good dyno tune will get you close to happy with the setup.
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Yeah , I'm not looking for anything fancy. Mostly to bring the fan temp. setting down and If I also gain a couple of ponies I'll be fine with it.
Any ideas on prices for a dyno tune?

Probably gets expensive since I would need to pay for the chip and the tune. Or I could be wrong. Sorry for asking a bunch of questions ; This stuff is pretty new to me and very overwhelming. There is the Jet Performance Modules , Jet Dynamic Tuning Spectrum,Jet Performance Chips , Diablo Sport(which doesn't seem to fit a pre 98 Contour) , SCT Ford Flash devices ,X3 ,Ford Switch chips,Dashcan/Custom tunning/Pro Racer package.... ha ha , just WOW!! .Also don't want to get ripped off at a dyno shop.

Thanks again
 
If all you want to do is lower the fan temp and get a couple more ponies find yourself the CHEAPEST unlocked xcal2 you can find (I don't know if they work on pre-98 though) and get a mail order tune from Brenspeed for $75. A GOOD dyno tune will be $400+.

acontour said:
Yeah , I'm not looking for anything fancy. Mostly to bring the fan temp. setting down and If I also gain a couple of ponies I'll be fine with it.
Any ideas on prices for a dyno tune?

Probably gets expensive since I would need to pay for the chip and the tune. Or I could be wrong. Sorry for asking a bunch of questions ; This stuff is pretty new to me and very overwhelming. There is the Jet Performance Modules , Jet Dynamic Tuning Spectrum,Jet Performance Chips , Diablo Sport(which doesn't seem to fit a pre 98 Contour) , SCT Ford Flash devices ,X3 ,Ford Switch chips,Dashcan/Custom tunning/Pro Racer package.... ha ha , just WOW!! .Also don't want to get ripped off at a dyno shop.

Thanks again
Click to expand...
 
acontour said:
30,000 miles ago I rebuilt the engine and 2 of my pistons melted on their sides.(Looks like they expanded/scuffed in the cylinder walls..pretty ugly) Minimal melting ,but enough to make me loose compression and to blow the head gasket.
Click to expand...

That sounds like you had bigger problems making you run a little hot than just the fans not coming on a few seconds earlier.
 
Dyoel182 said:
That sounds like you had bigger problems making you run a little hot than just the fans not coming on a few seconds earlier.
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I did get a lean code in the beggining which would come and go. I called a dyno shop today and as I suspected they told me that the reason my pisons melted could have been from running to lean by not having enough fuel. I guess I need to upgrade my injectors to 24lbs and also a fuel pres. reg. which will increase the fuel psi. I'm thinking about 38-40 at idle. It is currently at 32 and I have changed the fuel pump to an Airtex.

Next thing that comes to mind was air in my cooling system and I ran a stock 195F thermostat before figuring out that I could use a 180F. I also never remember my low speed fan turning on so the relay , fan itsefl or the low speed transitor could have been bad. I changed the fan to a dual and also replaced the low speed transitor from the dealer just in case.

Last thing would be the poor oil pan design in the Contours. I guess during hard cornering there are issues with lubrication ,especially at cylinger #4.

Still a mystery to me but If the same thing happens this time I'm going to find a big , nice cliff and guide the car to the bottom.
 
SkullV said:
If all you want to do is lower the fan temp and get a couple more ponies find yourself the CHEAPEST unlocked xcal2 you can find (I don't know if they work on pre-98 though) and get a mail order tune from Brenspeed for $75. A GOOD dyno tune will be $400+.
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Any idea of where I would find a unlocked xcal2? Is the X3 from SCT the same thing ..just better? Great , $400+ for a dyno tune..and that doesn't include the performance module or chip , right? I called a dyno tune shop today and they charge $125/ hour for tunning .:shocked:
 
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