Any car audio enthusiast???

[riskybzns]

Trying to install a new JVC radio but of course, their wiring is different colored than the factory.

My car has

1 - green/white
2 - green/black
1 - orange/black
1 - blue/red
1 - white
1 - blue/black

The JVC connector has

1 - yellow
1 - black
1 - red
1 - white/blue
1 - grey
1 - grey/black
1 - purple
1 - purple/black
1 - white
1 - white/black
1 - green
1 - green black

So, the question is, what is the correct hook-up?

Thank you for your time and to all that reply.

 

[CSVT1214]

You're not supposed to wire directly into the cars wires. You need an aftermarket wiring harness.

JVC wires go together with the aftermarket harness, then the aftermarket harness plugs into the factory plug.

Metra brand Ford harness kit:

 

[riskybzns]

I ended up getting a scosche connector, but even still, it does not connect with the aftermarket harness.

 

[Azreial]

You're not supposed to wire directly into the cars wires. You need an aftermarket wiring harness.

Metra brand Ford harness kit:

You are right, you aren't supposed to....but that black plug in CSVT's are udder crap. snapped 3 prongs trying to get one in mine, and now I have to do all my own wiring all throughout the car to get my speakers working again. Anything is possible with a little bit of time, beer, and proper knowledge if you ask me. If you decide to go the same route as I plan this weekend in fact, just take your time and string your wires right, one speaker at a time. Last thing you want is wires all over your interior.

 

[SVTJON87]

It would really help if we knew what car you are installing this in. And we need to know if your have a factory amp. If it is a contour and has stereo printed on the front speaker grills then you have a factory amp. But you can always pull your glove box down and see for yourself if you have an amp.

http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?63415-Alpine-HU-install-Check-my-work-please.

Check this thread out. I was wiring an alpine HU but the principle is the same. The wire colors for the Ford harness and adapter harness are given in order from right to left, or left to right. Depending on what way you look at them. Your manual for your JVC head unit manual and or the JVC harness should tell you what wires are for what.

also you need to bypass the factory amp. it will sound like crap if you don't.

wires:
Matte colors
purple
purple/ black
green
green/ black
grey
grey/ black
white
white/ black

are speaker wires and do NOT plug in behind your head unit. they are to be connected to an amp bypass harness. which plugs in to the harness that was plugged into your factory amp. this is what connects your speakers to the Head unit. You will not be running new wire in the doors to the speakers.



amp bypass how-to post #2
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showt...!!!!!-Read-here-first-before-asking-questions

i highly recommend this harness kit because the BLACK amp bypass harness has very very long wires on it. You will actually cut off like 4 feet or so. so you will not have to extend them to reach behind your glove box.
you need both of these that are in this kit.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120705008/Ford-Mazda-Receiver-Wire-Harness.html?tp=736

 

[SVTJON87]

You are right, you aren't supposed to....but that black plug in CSVT's are udder crap. snapped 3 prongs trying to get one in mine, and now I have to do all my own wiring all throughout the car to get my speakers working again. Anything is possible with a little bit of time, beer, and proper knowledge if you ask me. If you decide to go the same route as I plan this weekend in fact, just take your time and string your wires right, one speaker at a time. Last thing you want is wires all over your interior.

You should never of had to do that. in the picture you quoted that black plug is not used in our car. only the grey is. that would not bypass the factory amp. and you need to so you can have good sound. Take a look at the Amp bypass how-to i posted. you may be able to save yourself time if you plugged in to the wrong harness.

 

[CSVT_2004]

You are right, you aren't supposed to....but that black plug in CSVT's are udder crap. snapped 3 prongs trying to get one in mine, and now I have to do all my own wiring all throughout the car to get my speakers working again. Anything is possible with a little bit of time, beer, and proper knowledge if you ask me. If you decide to go the same route as I plan this weekend in fact, just take your time and string your wires right, one speaker at a time. Last thing you want is wires all over your interior.

Utter fail. Bypass the amp, don't mess around with integrating. So even though you did break off pins, all you have to do is go under the passenger dash and they make a color coated plug that will adapt to the factory amp output plug, no messy wires all over the place.

I ended up getting a scosche connector, but even still, it does not connect with the aftermarket harness.

1. Those plug and play adapters are ••••. The universal middle connector wears out. 2. it's not that hard to crimp cap or solder a harness together. Stop being lazy...

 

[98Mystique2]

I wish i had a picture handy.. but i've had atleast 4 or 5 different headunits over the years (upgrading and stuff) and well... i just cut and soldered onto what was there... so i got A LOT of electrical tape and short wires in there ... looks like garbage.. still worked somehow... now i just use the preouts

 

[Berkel]

I've had zero problems with those scosche adapters that come with any headunit you buy at any reputable site. The black one doesn't like to go in.. but i've never snapped any tabs or anything.

And for the amp bypass.. All I did was cut the wires before they reach the amp and use some speed wire to run it to the headunit. No special adapters or anything, you can do it in a half hour.. and you might as well throw the stock amp out to save weight :laugh:

 

[Mr_Buddha]

The Scoshe kit is utterly worthless. If you still have to splice wires, why even buy an 'adapter'? I have never seen a kit like this for a car until my contour.

Not sure why no one has done it yet, but this is how I plan to bypass my amp as soon as I can get around to a junkyard for the part I need.

Grab a spare amp from the Junkyard. Open it up, and simply remove the solder tracing on the PCB board near the electrical connectors. ( You want to stop the electricity from entering the amp)
Then run jumper wires from the inputs to outputs on the amp.

Done deal, and the car looks stock still.

 

[CSVT_2004]

I've had zero problems with those scosche adapters that come with any headunit you buy at any reputable site. The black one doesn't like to go in.. but i've never snapped any tabs or anything.

And for the amp bypass.. All I did was cut the wires before they reach the amp and use some speed wire to run it to the headunit. No special adapters or anything, you can do it in a half hour.. and you might as well throw the stock amp out to save weight :laugh:

I like harnesses since you can always go back to stock if need be.

The Scoshe kit is utterly worthless. If you still have to splice wires, why even buy an 'adapter'? I have never seen a kit like this for a car until my contour.

Not sure why no one has done it yet, but this is how I plan to bypass my amp as soon as I can get around to a junkyard for the part I need.

Grab a spare amp from the Junkyard. Open it up, and simply remove the solder tracing on the PCB board near the electrical connectors. ( You want to stop the electricity from entering the amp)
Then run jumper wires from the inputs to outputs on the amp.

Done deal, and the car looks stock still.

Scosche used to make a bypass for the factory amp that jumped the input to the output, but they stopped carrying it. Now you just have the output adapter that you need to extend up to the radio cavity.

I believe this is it....

http://www.scosche.com/car-audio/product/239