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3L port match starts, races and dies

Joined
Oct 21, 2004
Messages
129
Location
Toronto, Canada
Hi Guys,

I've installed my 2003 taurus 3.0L into my 1999 MTX mystique.
I've kept my IMRC inplace, and my current tune is based on the following conditions
Headers, 2.5L, 24# injectors, 94 Octane fuel and based on my Dyno sheet.

So, now that I have a 3L portmatched in place I have the following problem....

The engine starts, RACES up to 4500 RPM's then quickly drops down to 0 and stalls. If I give it some gas when the idle is dropping, I have been able to maintain the engine between 1000 RPM and 4000 RPM by 'popping' the gas pedal. I can do this over and over, but the car will not maintain on it's own. I am not showing any codes (probably since it doesnt have a chance to run for any length of time).

Does anyone have any thoughts on this??

I thought it may be the IMRC (being closed) so I forced it open and tried to run it, same result start, race, die..

Help!
 
I've looked for a vacuum leak, nothing... I'll re and re the UIM in case I've trapped a wire in between it and the LIM. I will revert to the stock engine tune to see if there is any difference. plenty of fuel pressure, I'll still have to ensure that there is spark at all pistons, and verify the signal to the injectors.
 
I've looked for a vacuum leak, nothing... I'll re and re the UIM in case I've trapped a wire in between it and the LIM. I will revert to the stock engine tune to see if there is any difference. plenty of fuel pressure, I'll still have to ensure that there is spark at all pistons, and verify the signal to the injectors.

For intake manifold leaks, take carb cleaner and spray it deep inside the uin/lim area. If the rpms shoot up further...then you know you have an intake leak somewhere. Spray everywhere...a spray at a time. Hit the runners at all angles.

Next would be a fuel pressure check...while idling.

Are there are codes? Check it anyways. (because i don't know if it idles long enough for a code to be thrown.)
 
IAC plugged in? IAC bolted on correctly? if its backward for any reason it will do this.

SVT iac is NOT the same as any 3L iac
01'-03 are the same
04-07 are backward and have a plug that comes out 90'

they are designed to seal the opening one way only.


also check the little things like your maf, fuel pressure, and look for obvious vaccum leaks. a vacum leak usually creates a rise-and-fall of rpm, not necessarily killing the car. it sounds more like the vaccum is pulling the iac open and then the car overcompensates to fix it and closes the valve, therefore starving it of any air and it dies.
 
I had an IAC problem before I swapped the motor.... I pulled one from the wrecker, the connector fits, but my old IAC had a 90 degree connector, the one I pulled (from a 98+ contour) did not have a 90 degree connector, it just sticks straight out...

I'm going to put my old one back in, I know it's not working perfectly, but maybe it will behave differently...

Awesome Lead TRicker!!!

Thanks
 
I put the old one back in, and there is a difference, i can make it idle (very roughly) on it's own, and it will often race if I mess with the trottle (when it revs up it sounds great).

I also have the copper cap in the bypass tube (with a 1/8-1/4" hole in it) to prevent moosing, could this be too restrictive?

I think if I had a vaccuum leak, the car would rev much higher. I'll try to pull another (same part# from the wrecker)

Other thoughts?

P
 
Sounds like a vaccum leak. Mine did the same exact thing. Except i was an idiot and didnt install the LIM gaskets cause i thought the bugzuki plates with silicon was all that was needed.
 
if it runs weird after u put the stock ecu back in its a vaccum leak and with the tune it could be the chip i had my civic tuned and it wouldnt hold the tune something was wrong with the chip and it made the car not run right but it ran great after i got a new chip and re tuned it
 
I had another look at the car today (man, it's hard to do a swap in 2 hr increments...!) and I replaced a the battery, it had a dead cell. Now I can start the car, and she runs (whoooray!) But during the idle, she runs stable (a little rough) and then she modulates idle between 400 rpm and 700 rpm up and down, up and down. Then often she dies. When I rev the engine, it sounds smooth and great.)

As a gut feel, it sounds like she's starving for air. I pulled a vacuum line and she runs pretty much the same. I'm thinking with the 3.0 and 2.5 intakes she's starved for air (I have IMRC installed).

I'm going to start a new thread in the tuning area, cause I need some advice on how to get her tuned.

Thanks for all the help!
 
It shouldnt need to be tuned. Even with stock injectors it should have plenty of fuel to run decent. Id check your IAC first...
 
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