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3L final questions

RAD Merc SVT

CEG'er
Joined
Aug 2, 2010
Messages
489
Location
Phoenix, Arizona
Hey guys I had another thread on rebuilding my 2.5 but I've suddenly switched gears and starting to think 3L. I have done alot of research and gone through alot of 3L threads I just have a few final questions before I get started. 1. I called the salvage yard and they asked for a digit of my vin for a '00+ taurus. does it matter or can I use any engine from a taurus? 2. What size injectors are most people using with there oval port 3L? 3. I think I read that the alternator bracket has to be trimmed but other than that all the 2.5 accesories are used on the 3L correct? Sorry if these have been gone over before I did searches and maybe missed them. Thanks for all the help
 
Look for a 04+ DOHC engine if you can. No you can't get any taurus engine...it must be the duratec dohc...you can't get the vulcan soh.
 
Keep in mind my warning about the 2.5 L connecting rods applies to the 3.0 L motor as well; they both use the same exact powdered metal scintered rods. I think the only reason we aren't seeing as many spun rod bearings in the 3.0 L engine is that not everyone is putting the SVT cams in and spinning the motor up to near 7,000 rpm as much as they did with the 2.5 L SVT. I also suspect that not enough 3.0 L swaps have high milage on them like the 2.5 Ls. Keep in mind that all I am warning about is what you should consider when balancing performance vs. longevity in your project.

If I am wrong on the 2.5 L and 3.0 L motors using the same connecting rods, please correct me. I don't want to pollute the forum with misinformation (Note: I am aware that the 1995 and 1996 2.5 L connecting rods are different from more recent rods and don't seem to be suffering the spun bearing failure problem. I don't remember where 1997 falls in the durability & manufacturing process).
 
Alright my fault I knew it was the duratec I just thought duratec was in them since 2000. So luckily thats exactly what they have an 04 DOHC Duratec. I guess I'm going to get it and I'm gonna take pictures every step of the way of my build. So I'll get back to you guys soon thanks for the help.
 
Keep in mind my warning about the 2.5 L connecting rods applies to the 3.0 L motor as well; they both use the same exact powdered metal scintered rods. I think the only reason we aren't seeing as many spun rod bearings in the 3.0 L engine is that not everyone is putting the SVT cams in and spinning the motor up to near 7,000 rpm as much as they did with the 2.5 L SVT.
What are people revving these engines upto safely? My favorite part about my car was revving it up to 6800 RPMs. And I want to put SVT cams in it too. so where is a safe place to stop the revs if I want longevity but still performance?
 
I took my full 3L right up to redline daily, pulled strong all the way up too. :shrug:

really, as long as you dont rev the engine up to ~3-4K or higher while in neutral the rods shouldnt stretch. the reason they stretch when reved in neutral is because there is no load, when in gear and accelerating there is a load trying to compress the rods.
 
Thank you for all the help Striker I appreciate it. And hey if those rods do eventually stretch I guess it just means it's time to throw in some K1 rods and go turbo haha.
 
Thank you for all the help Striker I appreciate it. And hey if those rods do eventually stretch I guess it just means it's time to throw in some K1 rods and go turbo haha.


Or just do this from the get go...

overviewnewparts.jpg
 
Keep in mind my warning about the 2.5 L connecting rods applies to the 3.0 L motor as well; they both use the same exact powdered metal scintered rods. I think the only reason we aren't seeing as many spun rod bearings in the 3.0 L engine is that not everyone is putting the SVT cams in and spinning the motor up to near 7,000 rpm as much as they did with the 2.5 L SVT. I also suspect that not enough 3.0 L swaps have high milage on them like the 2.5 Ls. Keep in mind that all I am warning about is what you should consider when balancing performance vs. longevity in your project.

If I am wrong on the 2.5 L and 3.0 L motors using the same connecting rods, please correct me. I don't want to pollute the forum with misinformation (Note: I am aware that the 1995 and 1996 2.5 L connecting rods are different from more recent rods and don't seem to be suffering the spun bearing failure problem. I don't remember where 1997 falls in the durability & manufacturing process).

I remember a thread on NECO where Terry Haines was talking about spun bearings and the causes. I think i recall correctly him saying, that the sintered powdered metal process was improved in 2002. So, any engine built after that should suffer less from this problem .... might want to double check that to be sure. Not sure when the old stock of con rods ran out, so it might be prudent to give a year of margin on that date .... G.
 
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wow wish I could do that haha how much do those pistons and rods go for? I might be taking a hit for my Mystique and be a guinea pig for 2 weeks and make $2500 to get her running again
 
I remember a thread on NECO where Terry Haines was talking about spun bearings and the causes. I think i recall correctly him saying, that the sintered powdered metal process was improved in 2002. So, any engine built after that should suffer less from this problem .... might want to double check that to be sure. Not sure when the old stock of con rods ran out, so it might be prudent to give a year of margin on that date .... G.

I haven't searched NECO for Terry Haines comments yet. I've been spending a lot of time sifting through the FCO website and what I've found so far is that Terry's position is that the rods are suspect in all Duratec 3.0s and in 1997 and later Duratec 2.5s. I'll be contacting Terry soon for the shift tower fix soon so I can ask him then.
 
I believe on the nautilus website they sell k1 rods for 699 US and diamond pistons for 899 US (may be viceversa)
 
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