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3L Duratec Supercharger install

I added a video to the post further back with the pictures. It's only a video of the car in the driveway but it's better than nothing. I don't want to drive it without a tune. I'm probably going to pick up an extra wideband sensor and a boost gauge for this car.
 
Newsvt said:
I can't wait to see pics of this set-up, is that all stock internals on the 3L? How did the intercooler fit up front did you have to do alot of cutting or removing anything?
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BTW read our site: http://www.3LDuratec.com there is no intercooler included in the 6psi kit. There is no reason to include one at this boost level. The supercharger isn't generating enough heat to warrant one at 6-7psi. Vortech's original kit didn't have one either and their kit was $3500. I ran the piping behind the front bumper so anyone could easily add one though. Just swap out the pipe up front for a front mount intercooler.
 
So your 10psi kit will make more than 300whp right? Obviously since you've made it on your cougar. But what are the limits? If I bought your 10psi kit would I be able to make 350wheel if I wanted to? Or is the kit at it's limits with the 325whp/278tq you made?
 
Yes, it does make over 300whp based on my Cougar's results. I haven't reached any limits yet but you could still raise the boost higher with a larger pulley stacked on the crank pulley. I don't know where you would get one but I'm sure there is something out there that could be made to work. I don't sell a full 10psi kit on the site. I can tell you what to purchase to get it there. Basically all you need to purchase beyond the base kit listed on the site is: intercooler (swaps in place of the straight pipe up front), BOV, a different pulley set. As in any type of FI kit going over 300whp you need a larger MAF and fuel pump.
 
That's correct it isn't needed but I'd recommend it. You need to pick up a smaller battery so you have room for the power distribution box to move over. I picked up a cheapy battery at walmart and it works great.
 
Blackcoog said:
That's correct it isn't needed but I'd recommend it. You need to pick up a smaller battery so you have room for the power distribution box to move over. I picked up a cheapy battery at walmart and it works great.
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I don't think you need any smaller battery, just have to move the stock one over. That's how it's always been with the GMK intake and your plumbing looks like it would go down the same area.
 
It's probably true that a stock battery would work but it would be pretty tight. Originally I wanted to stick the coolant tank between the battery and the coolant pipes but there isn't enough room even with the smaller battery.
 
SoopaCooga said:
IMO, if you don't want more than 300 hp or if you don't want to spend over $4K, then supercharger > turbocharger.
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Having seen Blackcoog's kit in person, the supercharger could be a good option above 300 hp as well if a wastegate is used. I will share my thoughts on that in a new thread.
 
Blackcoog said:
A wastegate is for a turbo only...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wastegate
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not necessarily true.

Wastegates are becoming increasingly popular in the centrifugal supercharger circles as a means of pressure control. For obvious reasons they are not used on the exhaust, but are instead installed on the charge tubes and utilized to prevent pressurization above a set point.

As is well known, supercharger "boost" is typically controlled by varying pulley size for a particular "peak boost." The other obvious, but often less noted fact is that a change in pulley size also effects the extent of "boost" production across the rpm band. Wastegates are being utilized to extend a specific "boost" level when coupled with a new pulley instead of increasing peak.

Example:

A hypothetical supercharger utilizes a pulley to produce 10 psi on an engine @ 5,500 rpm and 5 psi @ 4,000 rpm

A pulley change results in 20 psi @ 5,500 rpm and 10 psi @ 4,000

A wastegate setup to release at 10 psi is utilized with the pulley change. The engine now receives 10 psi from 4,000 - 5,500 rpm.

Click for MM&FF Article
 
I understand what you are stating but I guess I thought it would be more of a BOV set to dump above a certain pressure range expecially in this type of setup which utilizes a blow thru MAF.

I don't understand why you would think this would help this particular supercharger setup. How would Andyman's 10psi version (350+hp) of this kit benfiit from a "wastegate"? You do not want a ton of low end power in our cars unless you want to make a burnout queen.
 
Blackcoog said:
I understand what you are stating but I guess I thought it would be more of a BOV set to dump above a certain pressure range expecially in this type of setup which utilizes a blow thru MAF.

I don't understand why you would think this would help this particular supercharger setup. How would Andyman's 10psi version (350+hp) of this kit benfiit from a "wastegate"? You do not want a ton of low end power in our cars unless you want to make a burnout queen.
Click to expand...

it's not about peak numbers as much as trying to flatten the power curve. that's the major advantage the turbocharger setup has over the supercharger setup. i'm not going so far as to say "everybody should use a wastegate," but it appears to be a simple but powerful upgrade.
 
Pope said:
not necessarily true.

Wastegates are becoming increasingly popular in the centrifugal supercharger circles as a means of pressure control. For obvious reasons they are not used on the exhaust, but are instead installed on the charge tubes and utilized to prevent pressurization above a set point.

As is well known, supercharger "boost" is typically controlled by varying pulley size for a particular "peak boost." The other obvious, but often less noted fact is that a change in pulley size also effects the extent of "boost" production across the rpm band. Wastegates are being utilized to extend a specific "boost" level when coupled with a new pulley instead of increasing peak.

Example:

A hypothetical supercharger utilizes a pulley to produce 10 psi on an engine @ 5,500 rpm and 5 psi @ 4,000 rpm

A pulley change results in 20 psi @ 5,500 rpm and 10 psi @ 4,000

A wastegate setup to release at 10 psi is utilized with the pulley change. The engine now receives 10 psi from 4,000 - 5,500 rpm.

Click for MM&FF Article
Click to expand...



they call this a bypass valve. it can be set to dump at a max boost level adjusted manually. you can pulley up the car to boost a peak of say, 18 psi but set the bypass valve to like 10psi and achieve peak boost at a lower rpm since you have it pullied to run a higher rpm.

you don't need a waste gate but a waste gate can also be used, and may be more effective/efficient.
 
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