• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Alternator!?!?

G

Geddup Noise

CEG'er
Joined
Sep 28, 2005
Messages
149
Location
Louisville, KY
For a while now the battery on my car has been putting out low voltage (9-10v). It only happened seldomly and has recently started doing it frequently. Sometimes it would read low (8-9v) then jump back up to normal (12V).

this morning on my way home from work, the car finally died all together. One thing at a time though. First the lights dim, battery light on, gauges stop working, stereo turns off... until it ultimately dies.

I'm almost positive that the alt. is dead . If i sit and wait 5 minutes or so the car will start (idling around 8v) then dies again. So I know it isn't the battery.

Could this me some bad wiring? or something else? or has my alt. died? I don't want to pay to have someone tell me its the alt. when i could just replace it myself for cheap. But if it's something else, i'm screwing myself over.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
I've had a lot of people tell me it could be the volt reg.

I was lucky enough to have it towed for free and it is currently in a garage being checked out.

What is it with Ford anyway? Who's ****ing idea was it to put the alternator down under the wheel well. What a PITA. It's things like this that make me never want to buy an American car again.

Well.. that and the little things like no light in the glovebox. :mad:
 
I could swear that I have a light in my glove box. My new fusion doesn't though. My old truck does too.
 
Geddup Noise said:
...What is it with Ford anyway? Who's ****ing idea was it to put the alternator down under the wheel well. What a PITA. It's things like this that make me never want to buy an American car again.

...
Click to expand...
Toyota V6 also has the alternator by the wheel well and IIRC, so does the Honda V6. They need the space up for the bigger engine.

The Contour Zetec I4 has the alternator on top.
 
It is the alternator. They wanted 325 for parts and labor. I think I'll just try to get someone to help me do it myself.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
This absolutely could be a battery problem. I've seen those symptoms many times when it turned out to be the battery.

You cannot properly test an alternator without first qualifying the battery.

I'm not saying that the battery is the problem with our car, just that it could be. At this point I would still check out the battery.

$325.00 for parts and labor is not a bad price. In fact that's cheap enough that I would wonder if they don't know how difficult the job is or if they are using a poor quality alternator.
 
Big Jim said:
...$325.00 for parts and labor is not a bad price. In fact that's cheap enough that I would wonder if they don't know how difficult the job is or if they are using a poor quality alternator.
Click to expand...
I suspect they do not know how difficult it is. The rebuilt alternator would cost at least $100. Make sure you get a quote in writing.
 
Last edited:
I was looking online and found an alternator for $130.00.

I know that 325 isnt that bad of a price ecspecially for not having to do the work myself, but I just don't have that kind of money at the moment.

I'd rather make an attempt at replacing it myself if for no other reason than to further myself when it comes to autos.

I read Ray's How To: and it looks pretty tough, but I think if I had someone to help me we could accomplish this.
 
Geddup Noise said:
I was looking online and found an alternator for $130.00.

I know that 325 isnt that bad of a price ecspecially for not having to do the work myself, but I just don't have that kind of money at the moment.

I'd rather make an attempt at replacing it myself if for no other reason than to further myself when it comes to autos.

I read Ray's How To: and it looks pretty tough, but I think if I had someone to help me we could accomplish this.
Click to expand...
I think striker2 lives in Louisville. You should PM him to see if he would help you.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/member.php?u=36032
 
Easiest way to check if it is the alternator. Charge up your battery, once charged start up the car, and take a voltage reading on the battery posts, it should read over 14volts somewhere around 14.3 to 14.5v.
Rev it up and observe the readings, it should stay pretty much the same.
Anything less is surely a bad alternator. The only other exclusion from this is if there are after market underdrive pulleys installed, at idle it could read less but come up to specified voltage off of idle.

One other thing to check is the master fuse between the alternator and battery.

I suspect, your alternator or fuse crapped out awhile ago, and you have been driving around on your battery.

A fully charged battery in good conditon should show 12.6 to 12.8 volts with the car off.

Advance Auto has a new 130 amp alternator for the 2.5 for $169 ( $9.00 core charge) and it comes with a lifetime warranty and 24 months of road side service.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=11&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Alternator
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys.

I have the SVT in my garage now ready for the switch. I think I have a friend who will help me with this job. If it doesn't work out though, I could PM Striker2.

I'll keep posting as i make progress.
 
Was the charge light ON? dash

Was the charge light ON? dash

Note the fuse box under the dash (CJB) F-30 7.5 amp, feeds the charge light (plus several other ckts.) is required for Alternator to charge.
Note in this ckt a diode in series (arrow pointing at the ALT.) after the bulb (also important a parallel resistor across the bulb) feeds regulator on Gr/bk wire to the 3 wire connector (at the Alt) current will flow lighting the bulb. Provided one of the eight diode/rectifier's is not bad in the alternator.
With engine running the alternator's spinning field current basically the regulator senses and no current flow in the charge light circuit. If the bulb was to burn out the resistor will continue allow current to flow to regulator. Also if the connection at the 3 wire on Gr/bl is not clean no light also.
Trust me that diode in series keeps the the alternators output from back feeding into fuse F-30 and other ckts. This is reason the bulb does not light when the alternator charging properly voltage equal on both sides of the diode. Old term battery bucking battery = no current flow. Simplifies and cuts cost of the regulator.
Fuse box BJB next to battery F-5 (in red area) 15 amp this is the Field feed. This is on the orange wire at the 3 wire connector feeding into ALT. (It actually feeds first into the regulator. And out of the regulator in feeds to the 3 wire connector on the gray wire which loops back in the harness and becomes the single gray connector that plugs into the field. This is how the voltage is controlled.
Also with just one of the 8 diodes shorted the charge light will not function so the Ford manual says. This I have not simulated!!

No other thing inspect the insulation on the red wires that run from pos. batt terminal underneath and connecting under the BJB.
Finding out all wiring harness are suspect, thinking the improved harness's where still not 100%!! Especially for those with high current loads!
 
F111D F said:
Note the fuse box under the dash (CJB) F-30 7.5 amp, feeds the charge light (plus several other ckts.) is required for Alternator to charge.
Note in this ckt a diode in series (arrow pointing at the ALT.) after the bulb (also important a parallel resistor across the bulb) feeds regulator on Gr/bk wire to the 3 wire connector (at the Alt) current will flow lighting the bulb. Provided one of the eight diode/rectifier's is not bad in the alternator.
With engine running the alternator's spinning field current basically the regulator senses and no current flow in the charge light circuit. If the bulb was to burn out the resistor will continue allow current to flow to regulator. Also if the connection at the 3 wire on Gr/bl is not clean no light also.
Trust me that diode in series keeps the the alternators output from back feeding into fuse F-30 and other ckts. This is reason the bulb does not light when the alternator charging properly voltage equal on both sides of the diode. Old term battery bucking battery = no current flow. Simplifies and cuts cost of the regulator.
Fuse box BJB next to battery F-5 (in red area) 15 amp this is the Field feed. This is on the orange wire at the 3 wire connector feeding into ALT. (It actually feeds first into the regulator. And out of the regulator in feeds to the 3 wire connector on the gray wire which loops back in the harness and becomes the single gray connector that plugs into the field. This is how the voltage is controlled.
Also with just one of the 8 diodes shorted the charge light will not function so the Ford manual says. This I have not simulated!!

No other thing inspect the insulation on the red wires that run from pos. batt terminal underneath and connecting under the BJB.
Finding out all wiring harness are suspect, thinking the improved harness's where still not 100%!! Especially for those with high current loads!
Click to expand...
ROTFL. Let me translate.

Check/change Fuse 30 in Passenger Compartment Fuse Box under the dash, left of steering wheel and check/change Fuse 5 Foglamps (Fuse 3 for 2000 model) in Power Distribution Box next to the battery (I think the wiring was supposed to be changed in the later models, maybe 99 and 2000, so that Foglamp fuse should not make a difference).
 
Last edited:
It's definately the alternator.

I'm in getting ready to replace it. Has anyone read Ray's How To?

Am I going to have to worry about my alignment after messing with the tie-rod?
 
Geddup Noise said:
It's definately the alternator.

I'm in getting ready to replace it. Has anyone read Ray's How To?

Am I going to have to worry about my alignment after messing with the tie-rod?
Click to expand...


Yes, I have read and just used his how to about 2 days ago. It is a very well written how to. However, I found it much much easier to drop the y pipe and main cat. Then you have tons of room to reach up in there. I fought it too long with all the exhaust in place, but then I decided to drop those two small segments of the exhaust and it made it 100% easier. But remember, old rusty exhaust can cause you to break bolts and such... so do it at your own risk. I have my exhaust off a few times a year for this or that, so it's not as big of deal for me.

And no, you won't need to worry about your alignment. You just pop out the tie rod, and put it right back in the same hole. :)



Jeff
 
Geddup Noise said:
...Am I going to have to worry about my alignment after messing with the tie-rod?
Click to expand...
You shouldn't as you are not turning the outer tie rod to remove it. You are just "popping" it out. Get the proper tool (not the "pickle fork"). IIRC, it is $16 or so. Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
http://www.toolsource.com/ost/product.asp?sourceid=googletirewheel&dept%5Fid=500&pf%5Fid=94669&mscssid=D8XHGHRRN8CU8NUSU451VB87XD9N2W9D

But if the steering wheel does not appear straight after the alternator change, get an alignment. That would be cheaper than having to replace a pair of front tires.;)

Edit. Additional tips if you can't get the tie rod to come out.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/s...allposts&Main=1195333&Search=true#Post1195333
 
Last edited:
Tony2005 said:
You shouldn't as you are not turning the outer tie rod to remove it. You are just just "popping" it out. Get the proper tool (not the "pickle fork").
Click to expand...

What is the advantage of using a special tool for it!?!? I have always just applied a little upward pressure with a small crow bar on tie rods and given them a gentle smack with a hammer from the bottom and they pop right out with ease. Of course that is after you take off the nut! :) I think Ray says the same thing in his how to IIRC.

And when you put it back in, you have to give it a little tap downwards to seat it properly before you spin on the nut. Otherwise it will just keep spinning and not bite! :) Just a FYI.

Jeff
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top