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Ho do you get the 3L cank dampner off???!!!

H

HAZZARD

CEG'er
Joined
Oct 19, 2006
Messages
73
Location
The blue lights behind you
Like the title says the crank dampner bolt on the engine is stuck.

How do I get it off i searched and it was unclear but i think it sayed it was clockwise to get it off.
I have hit it with my biggest air gun clockwise, counter clockwise used pb blaster tried to hit it with a hammer nothing is working. :mad:

Is there something Im missing :shrug: ?????

Thanks
Matt
 
From reading earlier posts I think you have a misunderstanding. If I understand correctly, the center bolt holding the front pulley to the crank is conventional right hand thread. If there is an additional pully bolted to it, the bolts that hold it are left hand thread.

Someone that has worked on the 3.0 front crank pulley please speak up.

The bolt is a torque to yield. Torque to yield starts with tightening to a torque spec and then tightening it more (1/4 turn IIRC) to stretch it to the final tightening force.

Torque to yield bolts are sometimes very hard to remove.
 
The large pully and metal "rod" part that tapers into the damper is all 1 piece. For leverage, use a cut off and cut right after the hex. (on the pully side). Then just use a large socket on the hex to remove it. righty loosy.

Mine wouldn't come off, so I had to actually use a cut-off tool, and cut the hex into like, a 6 slice pizza, and it loosened up and I got it out.

When you get tha piece off, there is a bolt that lies within, and this is the damper bolt. Standard threads, lefty loosy. and then you can remove your damper.
 
posthuman63t said:
The large pully and metal "rod" part that tapers into the damper is all 1 piece. For leverage, use a cut off and cut right after the hex. (on the pully side). Then just use a large socket on the hex to remove it. righty loosy.

Mine wouldn't come off, so I had to actually use a cut-off tool, and cut the hex into like, a 6 slice pizza, and it loosened up and I got it out.

When you get tha piece off, there is a bolt that lies within, and this is the damper bolt. Standard threads, lefty loosy. and then you can remove your damper.
Click to expand...

Went through the sam thing. I had tried using my impact to get it loose. My IR impact is rated at 1000 ft lbs in reverse. Too bad I was tighting it. It only has 700 in reverse so I was gaining no ground. I tried everything in the book including heating it. But it was a left hand thread. Once I found that out I had to cut it off and use a 1" rachet to get it off. That sucked.
 
On more than a few 3L's I've had to cut all the way down with a cutoff wheel and then cut the remaining stub like a pizza. Use a hammer to hit the pieces in toward the center so it relieves pressure and then you can turn it out by hand. You will end up cutting into the damper but it's going in the garbage anyway so it shouldn't matter.
 
Blackcoog said:
On more than a few 3L's I've had to cut all the way down with a cutoff wheel and then cut the remaining stub like a pizza. Use a hammer to hit the pieces in toward the center so it relieves pressure and then you can turn it out by hand. You will end up cutting into the damper but it's going in the garbage anyway so it shouldn't matter.
Click to expand...

That's how I did it.
 
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