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Thanks for correcting those torque numbers, but that is still very very impressive for only 4.5 psi! Now lets see some well tuned numbers at 7 or 8psi, and some good drag runs! :)
 
TRicker said:
cool thanks for the input harrry i dont have an attention span big enough to read back 58 pages sorry :)
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I think the proposed stage 2 was going to be DESIGNED for the headers and 3L, but not including the headers. That was all very fuzzy and they are just trying to find a starting point :)

That makes sense about the dyno numbers.
Either way over 250wtq is awesome on a stock 2.5
 
I haven't posted anything about this, but I must say good job guys! This kit is going to extremely impressive and worth every hour and dollar spent on it!
 
Please don't clutter this thread any further. If you want to continue the BOV/WG sound discussion, please do so in the Forced Induction forum.
 
Hi there guys

I read some post and Me and Tom discussed alot of details on what the offerings will offer through the stages or power levels.

Just picture the stage 1 kit as a base kit that will run no matter what modification you have now. If you want larger FMIC it will be option with of course a price difference. We will allow the kit to be a tuner kit where you can add to the kit by purchasing larger parts or turbos. We will more likely have stage 2 kits which will include all the parts for a cheaper price than buying it seperate. Just think of the stage 2 or 3 etc. a nice bargain since the more money you spend more saving you save but keeping in mind we will allow you to upgrade any part of the kit for addditional cost of the products or difference in fabrication.

The piping will be standard and the accessories will be exchangeable to some degree. And for anyone who wants insane power levels stay tuned because my kit will be large FMIC with our splitter to accomodate the sizing issue with 450whp kits. I will have my fully built motor with my kit for Spring Zing pushing some insane numbers without cluttering up the engine bay with a large water to air intercooler. The idea will be to add a water to air after the air to air for drag racing purposes in the fender while leaving the hood open for better air circulation.

I have noticed that my older setup was heat soaked big time under the hood plus the water to air intercooler traps heat under the hood more not allowing the air to circulate through the motor and down the firewall like it should do from factory.

Between me and Tom we will more than exceed what most people expect the kit to produce but keeping in mind we will still keep our so called stage 3 kit @ 4k marker guessing more than 450whp on built motors.

As far as the headers from Marty the deal he offering will be a excellent price to have. I will buy a batch and spray them with the VHT and cook them for a little extra price to help corrosion and some heat retention unlike the bare headers you may order now. Now if you take your headers and send them to a jet coat or ceramic coating business tack on shipping and cost before buying the headers and if you want setup a seperate group buy with my coatings and have the headers shipped to me then you can cut costs on shipping. I will sell my headers coated with VHT with ceramic for about 250.00 plus shipping.

Oh the car feels fast for 3.5 psi I really like the spool-up time and the feel it gives you when it is accelerating to 100 mph. I drove the car the first time at the track and I noticed the car EGTs skyrocket so I shut it down quickly but I was able to launch the car hard and keep the traction. The car is really fun to drive I have 80k miles on the motor we have no smoking issues the motor was able to handle 14.1 AF on 6 psi without popping the pistons so therefore motor can handle a little abuse but of course we shut it down quickly to avoid that too.

Thanks Reebs for the motor and his quick shipping and of course Tom for his great tunning and smarts. I will save the claps for my busted up hands and endless late nights to get the kit going.

Just for a little humor I had injector issues that ate my lunch sorta speak because the injector main harness plugs had surface corrosion and manage to seperate while testing. And after pulling the manifold off 12 times do CR checks, valves checks, and a stupid starter going out on me while I was problem solving to make thing more aggravating. We finally found the bad connection on the injectors causing the misfiring. I was worried and sweating thinking about swapping another motor, so thank god it was simple after two days of searching. And before this incident, the car was smoking like a mosquito truck under crusie so that is why I was looking for ring lands issues instead of electrical issues. The car after I fixed the injectors still burned oil which we later on noticed that the restrictor on the oil line was to larger so the turbo was burning oil but once we fixed the restrictor the motor never burned another drop of oil. So now I am waiting on the new tune once Tom gets home and settles in and rest. Then I will schedule a appointment this week for a dyno to go to 8 psi.

I will be ordering the MSDS headers to repeat the boost tables to see what power gains you get with the headers then I will switch the FMIC to the larger one to see if any gains are there.

Oh I will also be ordering a stock 3 liter tomorrow for the 3 liter dyno and when the 3 liter is converted we will swap the motors in the car. Later guys
 
Different engine I know but lots of WRX's run around 1600f during WOT. During cruise my EGT's are like 1450-1500.
 
Ok im still wondering are yall dynotuning this car or are yall putting in a tune and tehn data logging and then adjusting the tune?
 
beyondloadedSE said:
Id say thats pretty well cooking. About the highest mine sees is about 1100 F. Mine is mounted in the downpipe.
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Ours is mounted about 2" from the exhaust port on the head.

Just for sake of comparison, the stock N/A 3L I had with the egt in the same spot would make about 650*C under cruise, and about 800*C under full throttle. Now that was a stock SVT injection system and PCM mind you! :shocked:
The temps are much lower when the egt is a couple of feet further away. Never can compare EGTs unless the probe is mounted in the same place.

For us, 850*C is about the limit. When we saw EGT hitting 900*C AND the Air fuel hitting around 14:1, it was time to shut it down.

We found that something is triggering the pcm to go open loop all the time and when it does that the pcm tries to lean out the injection. Then when we went full throttle it had leaned itself out. When we cut the motor and restart, then the computer resets and has normal air fuel. We don't know what is going on with that yet but will keep you posted when we figure it out.

Oh,
for the guy who keeps asking: we do dyno tuning when we are at the dyno and we tune from datalogs taken both at the dyno and on the road.
We are now perfecting the tune for the kit so we will test it on the road, at the dyno, and at the track.
Driveability is already VERY VERY good on this tune and this kit. We just need to get that A/F problem fixed and the tune is done. Timing tables are already nailed.
This will be the standard tune that will be available with the kit in a file format. We are deciding to provide the file "locked" so it can't be read by anyone else, but provide the tunefile converted into the appropriate PCM code to the buyers of our kit who don't have us do further tuning. This will be a basic safe tune for you to load into your own XCAL2, or any other dealer/dyno operator can load into your pcm and get you up and running right away. Detailed tuning can be done through us even at your local dyno, we will just make an appointment with you where we will be on call on the phone while you are on the dyno and as you make a run, I'll make any adjustments and then email the tune to you immediately, or to the dyno's email and they can upload the changes.

Hope this explains our vision of how we will provide customer support to people who are far away.
 
And for the European buyers??
Did you think in the hour difference? and the call price? and the language?
I think that the detailed tuning in our local dyno can be a pain with that method.
 
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