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hybrid 3l yes or no?

yamaha racer 686

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Feb 2, 2006
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Location
lancaster PA
what do u guys think for a daily driver hybrid 3l or should i go in another direction?


if i go with the 3l and 3l heads i was thinking of porting the lim to an oval and getting rid of the secondaries?

just looking for your opions
 
I loved my hybrid motor, but a full 3L does have the benefit of the improved oil drain backs, and a full 3L with svt cams seems to perform as well or better than the hybid setup.

porting the lim is an idea, but if you get rid of the secondaries you will require a complete reprogram of the computer to compensate for air flow differences, fuel demands, and the lack of control system feed-back if you remove the imrc box.
 
cool cause for me its a heck of alot cheaper to do a hybrid then try a full swap at least the first swap i do should be the easiest possible then i can try harder things

removing the secondaries couldnt i just get the ecu flashed? xcal2 or sumthing or get a chip made?
 
Going with a full 3L isn't necessary harder than going a hybrid setup. With a hybrid setup you have to tear the engine down the most. When you buy the 3L it will most likely be the full engine. You will have to tear it all the way down to the block, fill the oil drain back holes, and then reattach the heads. With a full 3L you won't even need to remove the heads and with SVT cams they are making nearly the same amount of power for the same work.
 
Going with a full 3L isn't necessary harder than going a hybrid setup. With a hybrid setup you have to tear the engine down the most. When you buy the 3L it will most likely be the full engine. You will have to tear it all the way down to the block, fill the oil drain back holes, and then reattach the heads. With a full 3L you won't even need to remove the heads and with SVT cams they are making nearly the same amount of power for the same work.

I agree, the full 3L seems to make similar power for a lot less $ (if you buy new gaskets for the hybrid) and work..

Dan
 
My question is...

With a full 3L and SVT cams only, do you need to buy high octane fuel?

My guess is NO since the compression levels are still stock 3L.
 
i am still undecided what i am doing with mine,,definetly 3.0 but what heads i haven't decided. would have to do alot of work to get my 3.0s back up to par
 
Going with a full 3L isn't necessary harder than going a hybrid setup. With a hybrid setup you have to tear the engine down the most. When you buy the 3L it will most likely be the full engine. You will have to tear it all the way down to the block, fill the oil drain back holes, and then reattach the heads. With a full 3L you won't even need to remove the heads and with SVT cams they are making nearly the same amount of power for the same work.

I agree, the full 3L seems to make similar power for a lot less $ (if you buy new gaskets for the hybrid) and work..

Dan

I disagree. Salvage yard motors should be torn down to bare block and rebuilt any way you look at it, hybrid or straight 3L. I've pulled 100,000 mile motors that look like they just came off of the assembly line, but I've also disassembled engines that had barely 20,000 on them and looked like they were on their death bed. Plus, sitting outside in insurance yards without hoods covering vital parts can really be hard on bearings, rings, and seals... and that's even before they get to the salvage yards.
 
Brad,

Unfortunately with the latest crop of those offering 3L services, you and I are becoming the exception to the rule that junkyard motors need rebuilt before being installed. Shoot, we've had members on this very board that have learned that lesson the hard way multiple times, yet people seem to think it's just a fluke.

I agree it's all a great big pain in the butt to do, but if you're all ready spending the time and money to do the swap, wouldn't you rather spend a little more to have a better guarantee that you're not putting a timebomb in your car? It's a crap shoot at best figuring out the amount of or lack of service an engine has received over it's life span and that doesn't include the issues Brad touched on about sitting for years in a junkyard.

Rick
 
Brad,

Unfortunately with the latest crop of those offering 3L services, you and I are becoming the exception to the rule that junkyard motors need rebuilt before being installed. Shoot, we've had members on this very board that have learned that lesson the hard way multiple times, yet people seem to think it's just a fluke.

I agree it's all a great big pain in the butt to do, but if you're all ready spending the time and money to do the swap, wouldn't you rather spend a little more to have a better guarantee that you're not putting a timebomb in your car? It's a crap shoot at best figuring out the amount of or lack of service an engine has received over it's life span and that doesn't include the issues Brad touched on about sitting for years in a junkyard.

Rick

i hear that my 3L is getting 6 new pistons and rods due to damage,, but hell they only cost $37.00 for piston, rod and rings compltely assembled,, and the kicker is if you just wanted to rering it was going to be $36.00 to do 2,, so instead i just double the money and get way more out of it,,BTW i work at Ford so that is how it is so cheap for those wondering why i am getting them so cheap
 
i hear that my 3L is getting 6 new pistons and rods due to damage,, but hell they only cost $37.00 for piston, rod and rings compltely assembled,, and the kicker is if you just wanted to rering it was going to be $36.00 to do 2,, so instead i just double the money and get way more out of it,,BTW i work at Ford so that is how it is so cheap for those wondering why i am getting them so cheap

Work at Ford huh? at a dealership or the actual plant in Claycomo?
 
i hear that my 3L is getting 6 new pistons and rods due to damage,, but hell they only cost $37.00 for piston, rod and rings compltely assembled,, and the kicker is if you just wanted to rering it was going to be $36.00 to do 2,, so instead i just double the money and get way more out of it,,BTW i work at Ford so that is how it is so cheap for those wondering why i am getting them so cheap

The question that instantly pops to my mind is what type of damage was done that these need to be replaced, yet the block will still work with OEM stock bore size pistons? Considering I've never heard of OEM pistons coming in overbore sizes, there's no way you could do anything but hone the cylinders very lightly and still use the OEM's. I'd personally be very suspect of what's going on there. Also, last I heard the piston/rod assembly was much more expensive than that even at dealer cost. I'd be worried that you're not getting what you're being told.

Rick
 
The question that instantly pops to my mind is what type of damage was done that these need to be replaced, yet the block will still work with OEM stock bore size pistons? Considering I've never heard of OEM pistons coming in overbore sizes, there's no way you could do anything but hone the cylinders very lightly and still use the OEM's. I'd personally be very suspect of what's going on there. Also, last I heard the piston/rod assembly was much more expensive than that even at dealer cost. I'd be worried that you're not getting what you're being told.

Rick

I agree Rick, he needs to be looking closer.
Sounds like the aftermarket replacement pistons to me. You can get them as cheap as $25 each.
 
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