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Hesitation, bucking @ low RPM, no codes

Tour, I'll cover.:laugh: Have checked the routing 10 times, and the plugs and wires are brand new. I took my time making sure each one seated correctly, too. I'm not getting a misfire anymore, but I was with the old set.
As far a vac line, I cut a new vac. line (rubber) and slipped the two broken ends into teh new one, like a Butt connector for wiring. It seemed air tight when I checked it via sucking in/blowing out (That doesn't sound good.:help: :laugh: ). I have a real time scan scheduled today, per Tony's suggestion. Will the real time scan let me know exactly what is wrong, or just the same general info as an autozone scan (ie. #3 plug not firing vs. bank 2 lean)? What are the PID's I should ask for, or what is a PID? Thanks for all the help.
 
I'm not sure what a real-time scan from the dealer will show. It has been my experience that they're generally not worth the money if all you're getting is a scan at the dealer. If you get a full diagnosis for the price and the outline of what is required to fix it, then that is worth it. I think all you get is the stuff people post from the Ford CD - the potential causes of the code & things to check, etc. Still a long list of possibilities. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

If you've got the old wires, swap out the #3 wire (or whichever is giving a problem now) to see if that solves your problem. I'd like to know what wires you got & if you maybe knicked the insulation. There are some sharp edges on the UIM...
 
I don't have any one particular problem with the wires. I just got this set back from Magnecor, they redid my boots on my old set. My misfire situation before dealt w/ the wire harness, the plugs and wires worked fine. Dealer service guy said that he would be able to let me know exactly what was wrong, so I guess we'll see. Thanks for the reply, tho.
 
TourDeForce said:
I'm not sure what a real-time scan from the dealer will show. It has been my experience that they're generally not worth the money if all you're getting is a scan at the dealer......
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I have to disagree with this statement. With a real time scan of PIDs and/or freeze frame data (and with posting on this site), we can look at the PIDs and/or freeze frame data and get closer to the issue.
 
Tony, I took it to Ford today, told them I needed a real-time scan, they pulled up code 0401, found a leaking hose, replaced it, but I still have the same bucking/hesitation. They said they THOUGHT it was the MAF, but coulld give me no definite proof. I asked about PID's but they said they weren't getting anything. What is a PID? I think I just wasted $80, as I know no more than I did before. Now I remember why I do all my own work.:shrug: .
 
getsum111 said:
Good deal Kouksie. Hope that was it. Well, I finally set of a CEL New Year's Eve, so I'm gonna get it scanned, then prob. just do a real time scan at teh stealership.:cry: We'll see what happens. Thanks guys.
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Nevermind, I spoke too soon. It started bucking on me on the highway as I was trying to come back to school 600 kilometers away. Ended up changing cars with my pops.

Good thing tho- the dealership I went and talked to (which is ironically the town it started messing up in) is where I bought the car, and they have an SVT specialized repair part in their shop, which means they've seen many a contours before. I went in and talked to the guy and told him how I'd been looped around elsewhere, and he told me that he would make sure he'd get the contour guys on it, and that he was sorry I had to go through so much trouble to get a car fixed. I left it in the hands of my dear old pops, and should get an answer in a couple days.

I remain optimistic!
 
getsum111 said:
Tony, I took it to Ford today, told them I needed a real-time scan, they pulled up code 0401, found a leaking hose, replaced it, but I still have the same bucking/hesitation. They said they THOUGHT it was the MAF, but coulld give me no definite proof. I asked about PID's but they said they weren't getting anything. What is a PID? I think I just wasted $80, as I know no more than I did before. Now I remember why I do all my own work.:shrug: .
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They did not scan it. They did what Autozone or Advance will do free. They read the code. And reading the code does cost about $80. PID=Parameter Identification. PIDs =Parameter Identification Data (Data being plural). Any reasonably competent technician should have been able to get you some freeze frame data or PIDs. Even I can get you that with a scanner. About a year ago, we were going around in circles with a CEGer's CEL code. Took it to the dealer and they determined it was the fuel injector when they did a real time scan. If the code was P0401, then I would presume that Autozone or Advance would have got that too. You may have to "borrow" Autozone's or Advance's Actron 9145 and do it yourself. Now, if you had a P0401 due to a disconnected tubing, I would check if your precat is plugged.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=762
 
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My car began doing this exact problem about 6 months ago. It's getting worse as time progresses. I took it to Ford and they had no idea what was causing it because it didn't drop any codes. I have recently replaced the fuel filter, then the fuel pump with no luck. It happens regardless of fuel level and independent of temperature. The only thing I can think of is I recently cleaned my K&N filter and probably over oiled it. So I still try to clean the MAF this weekend and see what happens.
 
For mine, it was happening BEFORE I cleaned my K&N, and I let it sit overnight for that exact reason. I also cleaned the MAF w/ an electrical cleaner that leaves no residue, just in case. No luck.:mad: I am going to swap my MAF to see if that helps. I'll let you all know.
 
iBrent said:
My car began doing this exact problem about 6 months ago. It's getting worse as time progresses. I took it to Ford and they had no idea what was causing it because it didn't drop any codes. I have recently replaced the fuel filter, then the fuel pump with no luck. It happens regardless of fuel level and independent of temperature. The only thing I can think of is I recently cleaned my K&N filter and probably over oiled it. So I still try to clean the MAF this weekend and see what happens.
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I can't say that any of these things were the trigger for my little one. It didn't get driven much this summer, and only made the highway trip here, and casual driving around the city thereafter. I'm pondering the idea of it being a throttle issue (on my end at least).
We will prevail!
 
I had a similar problem and after months of replacing stuff I come to find out that my plugs wires had moisture inside the boots. I also found moisture inside the boots that connect to the coil pack. I dried them out, put a heavy coat of dielectric grease in the boots and that was it. I haven't had a problem and its been months.
 
todras said:
Plug wires getsum. And I don't care if they are new. Ask Goonz!!!!!!!
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It was my plug wires too... almost new Ford Racing 9mm wires were causing the problem after only a few hundred miles of driving. I was totally baffled and replaced a whole bunch of crap that I didn't need to. It was only after I swapped back to my old crappy looking wires that I realized the problem.

It was only when I gave it a bunch of throttle at low RPM. It would buck and hesitate and then clear out after about 3,000 RPM.
 
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