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Did not see "big 3 upgrade" info in the sticky. Does that mean..

The alternator wiring may be the big actually. I was thinking about the other pitiful ground wires that could be beefed up.
 
I don't think the Big 3 gets done too often on our cars just b/c they are a PITA to do the ALT wire upgrade to the battery. The freaking ALT is tucked away so stupidly in the engine bay compared the location of the battery IMO. (2.5 Duratec)
 
I'm actually going to attempt to do the big 3 in the next 2 weeks (hopefully the next few days). I've replaced the alternator before, so I'm aware of the PITA it's gonna be. Anyway, when I do get around to it, I'll make sure to take a ton of high resolution pics and make a thread with detailed instructions on how I did it.
 
BigC said:
I'm actually going to attempt to do the big 3 in the next 2 weeks (hopefully the next few days). I've replaced the alternator before, so I'm aware of the PITA it's gonna be. Anyway, when I do get around to it, I'll make sure to take a ton of high resolution pics and make a thread with detailed instructions on how I did it.
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That would be awesome!! I'm sure many would appreciate it as well! I've been meaning to do it, but I don't think I have a long enough piece of wire and shrink tube to make it nice and protected.
 
we also used a torch to solder the ends on...unless you have the right tool, it's next to impossible to properly crimp a connector on 0 gauge wire...
 
TUFTOUR said:
we also used a torch to solder the ends on...unless you have the right tool, it's next to impossible to properly crimp a connector on 0 gauge wire...
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yeah I need to go back and do that with all the connections for my relocated battery. should even do it where bear wire enters a terminal with a set screw also.
 
BrApple said:
yeah I need to go back and do that with all the connections for my relocated battery. should even do it where bear wire enters a terminal with a set screw also.
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Dyoel182 said:
Baer?

Another reason I just bought the pre-made lawn/garden cables. I didnt want to break my crimper trying to crimp a connection poorly to begin with.
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actually you both got it wrong lol it should be bare shouldnt it?:laugh:
 
They make a crimping tool where you use a 3# sledge to do the dirty work. Basically it’s cast steel body… Awh hell here’s a link….its’ item “D”.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7061k12/=2g4se8 I seen them at other places for less then half that price...
Also you can “tin” the ends of the wires to make a better/easier “connection”… And this would be done before you put it in the screw terminals…
 
TUFTOUR said:
how would you do this, would you tin the wire first and still put the "bare" wire in the terminal with set screw?
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yup. straight from a audio guy that I do work with. if you think about it it will make it harder for the wire to pull out because the solder will stiffen up the bare wire.
 
hmmm...interesting, I never thought of that. I guess it would work for larger gauge wire, but do you think the solder would make it difficult for the set screw to screw into a tinned, thicker wire? I wouldn't want to strip the set screw...for instance, a 4 gauge wire?
 
not really sure. I know when I made up new 4 ga wire for the alternator-starter-battery terminal my father and I crimped the terminals on then using two soldering irons tinned the terminals.
 
lol, two soldering irons...I almost missed that. Try using a butane torch for sweating pipes next time...only took a couple seconds as long as you regulate the flame so you don't melt the wire insulation too bad...you can also use a pair of pliers as a heat sink to keep the heat out of the rest of the wire...works great on that 0 gauge.
 
TUFTOUR said:
lol, two soldering irons...I almost missed that. Try using a butane torch for sweating pipes next time...only took a couple seconds as long as you regulate the flame so you don't melt the wire insulation too bad...you can also use a pair of pliers as a heat sink to keep the heat out of the rest of the wire...works great on that 0 gauge.
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yeah I will have to try that in the future. not sure why we didn't use a torch.
 
its possible that the stock wiring has the jacket diameter of 4 gauge but the actual wiring isnt 4 gauge. it might have a thick jacket and little wire inside, hence using a real 4 gauge or greater wire could be advantageous. when i've read about the big 3 on other dedicated audio forums, most usually run an additional line parallel to the stock wiring. they don't actually replace it so the line runs from the alt directly to the battery. but doing so, has a non fused line to the batt. r u guys actually pulling the stock wiring and running from the alt to the megafuse to the starter to the batt?

don't know why, but i think i read that the stock wiring is 6 gauge.
 
I pulled the wiring from the battery and the main ground off the block and switched them both to 0 gauge...the alt. is still the same as stock...nothing was ran parallel...
 
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