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EGR solved

KAOS_3.0

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
May 16, 2008
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ok, this is undoubtedly going to turn into a flame fest, so lets start with a basic explanation of what the EGR system actually does:

wikipedia said:
EGR in spark-ignited engines

In a typical automotive spark-ignited (SI) engine, 5 to 15 percent of the exhaust gas is routed back to the intake as EGR. The maximum quantity is limited by the requirement of the mixture to sustain a contiguous flame front during the combustion event; excessive EGR in an SI engine can cause misfires and partial burns. Although EGR does measurably slow combustion, this can largely be compensated for by advancing spark timing. The impact of EGR on engine efficiency largely depends on the specific engine design, and sometimes leads to a compromise between efficiency and NOx emissions. A properly operating EGR can theoretically increase the efficiency of gasoline engines via several mechanisms:

  • Reduced throttling losses. The addition of inert exhaust gas into the intake system means that for a given power output, the throttle plate must be opened further, resulting in increased inlet manifold pressure and reduced throttling losses.
  • Reduced heat rejection. Lowered peak combustion temperatures not only reduces NOx formation, it also reduces the loss of thermal energy to combustion chamber surfaces, leaving more available for conversion to mechanical work during the expansion stroke.
  • Reduced chemical dissociation. The lower peak temperatures result in more of the released energy remaining as sensible energy near TDC, rather than being bound up (early in the expansion stroke) in the dissociation of combustion products. This effect is minor compared to the first two.
It also decreases the efficiency of gasoline engines via at least one more mechanism:

  • Reduced specific heat ratio. A lean intake charge has a higher specific heat ratio than an EGR mixture. A reduction of specific heat ratio reduces the amount of energy that can be extracted by the piston.
EGR is typically not employed at high loads because it would reduce peak power output. This is because it reduces the intake charge density. EGR is also omitted at idle (low-speed, zero load) because it would cause unstable combustion, resulting in rough idle.

FULL ARTICLE: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EGR

ok, so now that we dont think the point is to simply "reburn" exhaust to clean it up more, we can get to how to get it to work on our 3.0's (if you'd like to keep it now)

I read a lot of stuff on people trying to keep their EGR with terrible results. it seems the taurus DPFE will throw a code, so you need to swap over the aluminum contour one, like this:

img6542edited.jpg


then, we're going to cut both the contour egr pipe and the tarusa egr pipe almost exactly in the middle, in the straight upright section, then cut a piece of straight scrap EGR tubing to about 3 inches, then cut a 1/4" slot down one side of it, and roll it down to fit the ID of the egr pipe with channel locks. grind the ridge from the overlap down. remember to slide both egr pipes heat wraps on. then tap it into both egr pipes like this:

img6547edited.jpg


now, align the two pieces very close to perfectly, then weld the joint, like this (well hopefully better :) ) :

img6548edited.jpg


now slide the covers over so they overlap. I also wrapped then to the pipe with some copper wire I have laying around, just to keep them from moving around and exposing the hot pipe to plastics.

img6549edited.jpg


now bolt that mofo on and feel all cool for doing something different

img6550edited.jpg
 
You won't get a code from using the plastic Taurus DPFE. That is the same DPFE sensor ford will sell you if you go to the dealer and ask for a new one. I used a plastic one on my car and a few others without any problems.
 
well I didn't get a code with the black one, but since I'd read that I figured keeping the sensor that went with the pcm would be a good move.
 
Congrats, you've done what many... many... many other people have already done.

You're not the first to retain EGR functionality; in fact the ability to do such was never the issue. The point is that its extra work for nothing at all.
 
well I didn't get a code with the black one, but since I'd read that I figured keeping the sensor that went with the pcm would be a good move.

The black one is what the dealer will sell you right now if you go buy a new one! It's perfectly fine for our PCM. Either way good job getting the EGR tube to fit.
 
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