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GT2SVT

CEG'er
Joined
Mar 1, 2006
Messages
372
Location
Sun Diego
ok I've got one for you guys. I just finished installing a 3l and it started fine but the BAT. light is on and steady. now I've checked the grounds and i'll double check them again. but I remember when I hooked up my knock sensor, I had to splice the wiring harness. I used bullit type plugs on the wires so I can switch it around if needed.
So, if I connected it wrong, do you think this would be the cause of my car not charging cause I may have connected positive to negative?
 
i know this might sound really dumb, but are you sure you hooked the power wire back up to the alternator? everything is plugged in? you have two connectors on the ALT. double check that they're good and tight on there
 
Black 98 CSVT said:
i know this might sound really dumb, but are you sure you hooked the power wire back up to the alternator? everything is plugged in? you have two connectors on the ALT. double check that they're good and tight on there
Click to expand...

yea I double checked those, all three of them. the only thing I didn't install was the black L shaped bracket on the alternator. I accidently left the bolt on the old ALT. when I got the new ALT. they (Kragen) took the old one and that bolt. but I figured thats one less bolt I have to remove if the ALT ever goes out. It seemed like a usless bracket to me. the Alt is already hard enough to take our with the other 2 bolts holding it in. Don't tell me that bracket was used as a ground. I have it still, just not the bolt.
well I pulled the alternator out. it actually wasn't that bad. I think the trick was I removed the lower firewall side engine mount which cause the engine to sag on that side. that gave me more space to pull it out. the only other thing i removed/disconnected was the sway bar end link. with a little rotating and pulling I got that alt out.
 
AliasJerk said:
check your mega fuse?
Click to expand...

I think the mega fuse is good because I hooked up my voltmeter on the positive side of the ALT. and I was getting 12V there. so that should tell me that the Battery/fuse is good.
I had the ALT. checked out today and it was good as well. putting out 14.6 volts. the F5 fuse is also good.
 
ok here is the deal.
ALT. has check out good 14.6v
BAT. good
I went through the grounds
ground under the battery tray
ground from transmission to fender
ground from coil pack to engine block
ground from engine harness to firewall (by the power steering res.)
Mega fuse should be good. I have 12v going to the ALT. (voltmeter verified that)
Fog lights work and visually checked the Fuse #5.
am i missing a ground or did I cover all the grounds?
by the way this is a V6.
 
GT2SVT said:
...
....
Mega fuse should be good. .........Fog lights work and visually checked the Fuse #5.
.......
Click to expand...
1) Remove Mega fuse and test.
2) Remove Fuse 5 and test.
3) Continue driving until the battery goes flat. If it doesn't go flat, then you know the battery is getting charged by the alternator. And this does not become a critical issue.

If fog lights have been modified (wiring redone), it might not go through Fuse 5. Hence, it might not be an indicator of charge going through.
 
Tony2005 said:
1) Remove Mega fuse and test.
2) Remove Fuse 5 and test.
3) Continue driving until the battery goes flat. If it doesn't go flat, then you know the battery is getting charged by the alternator. And this does not become a critical issue.

If fog lights have been modified (wiring redone), it might not go through Fuse 5. Hence, it might not be an indicator of charge going through.
Click to expand...

I'll try that thanks. the only thing I've modified when I did the 3L swap, was splice in the knock sensor. I used bullit type plugs so I can switch the polarity. can this be a possible cause?
 
GT2SVT said:
.. the only thing I've modified when I did the 3L swap, was splice in the knock sensor. I used bullit type plugs so I can switch the polarity. can this be a possible cause?
Click to expand...
Disconnect that and you will know. ;)
 
BalusC said:
Electrical generator which reloads the battery. In a V6 the dynamo is usually somewhere in the top of the engine, driven by a belt.
Click to expand...


What the hell are you talking about? On what car would this be found?:help: Are you calling the alternator a dynamo? Which is something that has been discussed at length already.
 
todras said:
What the hell are you talking about? On what car would this be found?:help: Are you calling the alternator a dynamo? Which is something that has been discussed at length already.
Click to expand...

I assume that's what he's talking about. Must be an "other side of the pond" term.
 
todras said:
What the hell are you talking about? On what car would this be found?:help: Are you calling the alternator a dynamo? Which is something that has been discussed at length already.
Click to expand...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dynamo
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator

I think the dynamo is a more specific term. It is at least part of an alternator. It is at least indeed more common to call it 'dynamo' in the Europe. Sorry for the confusion :) It is only not really needed to ask "what the hell" I am talking about :( I am not an English native and also not strong with English "jargons".
 
here's an update.
Mega fuse is still intact. I checked continunity and checked volts to the ALT again.
Checked all fuses in under the hood.
checked wiring. the only problem which is somewhat major is I have alot of cracks in my insulation and many exposed wires. does anyone know were I can get a harness? I'm gonna need the one for the Injectors, CMP, EVR, Crankcase Position ect.
although i believe that this is not my problem since the car starts fine, I would like a new one for Reliability purposes.
Problem is there must be something wrong from the Regulator wiring. which looks pretty good save for a few exposed wires. and none are touching.
I'm really stumped now.
oh and like I've said before the ALT/DYNAMO is good at 14.6V as well at the BAT.
 
oh one other thing. when I reainstalled the Alternator I didn't put back the black shaped L bracket. it looked useless to me is this some sort of ground?
 
GT2SVT said:
... the only problem which is somewhat major is I have alot of cracks in my insulation and many exposed wires. does anyone know were I can get a harness? I'm gonna need the one for the Injectors, CMP, EVR, Crankcase Position ect....
Click to expand...
If you can't get a harness, try Liquid Electrical Tape as a temporary fix. I used this for my battery cables (2 years now and still going strong). You can pick it up from Home Depot or Lowes.
 
Tony2005 said:
If you can't get a harness, try Liquid Electrical Tape as a temporary fix. I used this for my battery cables (2 years now and still going strong). You can pick it up from Home Depot or Lowes.
Click to expand...

I've never heard of liquid tape, I'll try that thanks!
 
got the liquid tape and applied it but the more electrical tape I unwrapped the more the insulation kept flaking off.
I'm stopping here, I'm gonna have to get a new harness. its so bad right now, when I jiggle the harness the car would cut out or the check engine light would come on for various sensors.
does anyone here have a good 2.5L harness they wanna sell me?
 
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