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Coolant have to be refilled constantly, waterpump is okay

BalusC

CEG'er
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
57
Location
Willemstad, Curacao, Netherlands Antilles
About one month ago I bought a 1996 Contour SE 2.5 V6 24V for a low price.

The low coolant light stays on all the time, regardless of the coolant level in the reservoir. This is maybe a sensor issue, so I don't really worry about this. But I have to refill the coolant very regulary, about half a liter every half a hour of driving. Fortunately the distances I drive are relatively small, so I only have to refill it once a day or two.

Also the engine seems to be relatively hot after half hour of driving. I haven't had this experience with all of my previous cars, but they all have a small engine (1.8L ~ 2.0L straight-4). But the climate is here relatively hot and the space in the engine room is relatively little (it is, say, very full).

I would like to solve this issue. I searched for noticeable coolant leaks, but I found nothing. I searched those forums for comparable problems and it turns out that the waterpump may be possibly broken. This seemed very reasonable, the hot water cannot be circulated through the engine and thus an overpressure would occur and cause steam leaks.

After concluding that, I decided to buy a new waterpump and replace the old one. I have successfully replaced it today (oh dear, what is there LITTLE space in the engine room, even after removing the battery and some of the coolant tubes! I hurted myself everywhere at my hands..).

During the replacement I was surprised to conclude that the old waterpump isn't broken. The impeller looks fine and so on. Although there was fairly a lot of some kind of corrosion inside the waterpump room. It is not rust, it rather look like some browny calcination. But OK, I have carefully polished the whole room clean and I rinsed it and all of the coolant tubes with high pressure water streams until only clear water flushes out of the lowest tube. In the meanwhile I have also checked for noticeable leaks and no, still nothing.

After reassembling I did a test drive of half a hour. The low coolant light is still on all the time (possibly just a dead sensor as told before) and the water temperature goes about halfway after one minute or two and stays there all the time (which is normal, this is not different from before the replacement). I drive about 2000rpm all the time. If I keep it around 3000rpm or higher, then the temperature will go higher after one minute or two, but it is still inside the acceptable zone. Also the airco seems to work fine, but as far my knowledge concerns, it has a just separate circulation system.

When I came back home after test driving, I noticed that the coolant level become lower than it was. I had refilled it to a bit above the MAX level and after this half a hour it become a bit below the MIN level. To exclude the presence of some vacuum in the system I refilled it once again, drove another half a hour again, but the level become a bit below MIN again and the story continues.

Well, now I don't know anymore what could be the problem. Could be there some leak which would only occur during overpressure? How could I find it without risking to hurt myself? Also, is it reasonable to assume that the coolant level sensor is just broken, or is there more into it which is related to this problem?

Sorry if the story is too long and/or if my English isn't that good as it should be, but I just tried to describe the problem as clear as possible :)

Cheers, Bauke
 
Missing Coolant

Missing Coolant

First of all, Welcome to the site. I think you will find regardless of your location that the members will be eager to help.
The low coolant sensor is typically weak. Most members have to overfill the resivor by 1" or 3 cm. This is not your issue.
Check your engine oil to see if there is any evidence of coolant in the oil. This would indicate a blown head gasket.
Check the exhaust. If there is lots of white smoke with a sweet smell that would indicate a blown head gasket leaking coolant into the exhaust manifold.
If you can have a pressure test on the cooling system perform do this as soon as possible. This can locate an intermitant external leak. These are much cheaper and easier to repair.
If you must drive the vehicle prior to correcting the fault please pay close attention to the coolant level and the temp gauge. The engine heads are very sensitive to extreme temps. Dan
 
First of all, Welcome to the site. I think you will find regardless of your location that the members will be eager to help.
I know the power of the forums at the web ;) We're here to help each other, everywhere. That's also why I registered myself here.

The low coolant sensor is typically weak. Most members have to overfill the resivor by 1" or 3 cm. This is not your issue.
Okay. I already have read it somewhere at those forums.

Check your engine oil to see if there is any evidence of coolant in the oil. This would indicate a blown head gasket.
Check the exhaust. If there is lots of white smoke with a sweet smell that would indicate a blown head gasket leaking coolant into the exhaust manifold.
There are no white smokes and it doesn't smell sweety. There is no smoke at all. It's just all clean carbon dioxide and some nitrogen stuff. I must however say that I already have checked it during buying the car without actually knowing why I did it :) There was nothing special in the exhaust, so I didn't worry about it further. I haven't checked the entire oil for coolant evidences. I can at least say that the oil at the oil stick looks fine.

If you can have a pressure test on the cooling system perform do this as soon as possible. This can locate an intermitant external leak. These are much cheaper and easier to repair.
I'll keep it in mind and ask it around.

If you must drive the vehicle prior to correcting the fault please pay close attention to the coolant level and the temp gauge. The engine heads are very sensitive to extreme temps. Dan
Certainly. I always check the coolant level every half a hour of driving. It has never gone empty and the temps is always inside the 'normal' range.

Well, this noon I decided to have a closer look at the leakage. I decided to let the engine run stationair for a while and monitor the ground. After a minute or two, three I finally see coolant drops on the ground. They came from under the dynamo. After looking a bit further they appears to originate from some unidentified plate which look like to be fastened with one bolt, right under the uppermost wheel at the left hand side of the engine (when looking from the front side on). There is too little space to have a closer look, so I took a picture and made a small movie where you can see the drops going on.

Pic: http://tweakers.net/ext/f/HAVDQ7nug9wGqw3ilMfMDRDk/full.jpg
Movie: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfSenfRkSC8

This week I will contact some car mechanicans here to see what they have to say about this issue. You all here are of course welcome to have an opinion about it :)
 
I have circled it with red:

full.jpg
 
OK, I've let a car mechanican take a look to the leak. He said that the real source is higher than what I've circled at the picture. It's just a path of the leak. It is not possible to further investigate the real source without removing some of the top parts of the engine. This may require an engine lift or some plate under the engine so that the engine can lay on it.
 
the only possible options for what would be leaking coolant from that high up are a crack in the block (dont think thats ever happend there on CEG) or a blown head gasket (more likely).
 
Hmm, a blown head gasket would be a serious problem, is it? I should in fact not drive the car further? It is also not an easy repair for a DIY'er I think. OK, I will also discuss about it with the car mechanicans.

I still wonder about the fact of the absence of the white smoke in the exhaust..
 
not all head gasket leaks leak into the engine sometimes they can leak to the outside , welcome and good luck
 
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