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SPEC Clutch and Flywheel Prices...

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yamaha racer 686 said:
in your opinion whats better stage 3 or stage 2+
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Well it depends...The Stage 3 has a 4-puck carbon/ceramic friction material disc which will engage more aggressively than the Stage 2+. The Stage 2+ has a full faced Kevlar material disc which makes for increased torque capacity while keeping a very smooth and easy engagement. The issue is the Kevlar, however, as many have experienced hazing when the disc gets too hot. Additionally, the Stage 2+ is more expensive than the Stage 3.

In the end it has to do with how you want to drive. There is no doubt that the Stage 2+ is going to be the smoother/easier clutch to use everday, but it comes at a higher price and the risk of hazing if you don't break it in and let it cool down properly. The Stage 3 is a proven kit that simply bites harder and cost less.


Thanks
RamMotorsports :D
 
i got a fast question. if i order the stage 3 clutch will it come with the full kit. like the throw out bearing ( I think thats what it's called). cause mine is leaking and i'm tried of adding brake fluid every week. this is the only reason i need a clutch.:mad: so is there a hook up if we order the clutch and flywheel from you.
 
MARXSVT said:
i got a fast question. if i order the stage 3 clutch will it come with the full kit. like the throw out bearing ( I think thats what it's called). cause mine is leaking and i'm tried of adding brake fluid every week. this is the only reason i need a clutch.:mad: so is there a hook up if we order the clutch and flywheel from you.
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All SPEC kits come with the pressure plate, hub, disc assembly, bearing and tool kit.

Also, there is no discount for a clutch and flywheel combo...

Send me a PM if you'd like to order something.

Thanks
RamMotorsports :D
 
Blast47 said:
Do I have to have a previous 'stage' clutch to get something higher?
Say, if I wanted a stage 3 clutch kit - do I have to have the stage 1 / 2 before hand?
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No, you can go ahead and get whatever stage you want. You don't have to buy all the stages just to use the stage 3 clutch. However, with any naturally aspirated contour/mystique/cougar, you won't need anything more than stage 1 in my opinion.
 
Reebs said:
No, you can go ahead and get whatever stage you want. You don't have to buy all the stages just to use the stage 3 clutch. However, with any naturally aspirated contour/mystique/cougar, you won't need anything more than stage 1 in my opinion.
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I'm planning on getting the turbo from Burrita - so I figured I would get a stage 3 just to be sure - and putting in the clutch at the same time as installing the turbo :cool:
 
Blast47 said:
I'm planning on getting the turbo from Burrita - so I figured I would get a stage 3 just to be sure - and putting in the clutch at the same time as installing the turbo :cool:
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What Reebs said was right...simply choose a clutch and it comes with everything needed to install. No prerequesets...

Thanks
RamMotorsports :D
 
unclear regarding Stages

unclear regarding Stages

Looking to buy a clutch kit, Not sure what is meant by a stage1,2, etc
Does the price include disk, plate, TOB, Slave Cyl, & seals?
I have a 98 SE V6, MTX.

Thanks!
 
the higher the stage the more grip you will get. Stage 1 feels like stock and is good for most mildly modded cars. I have 210ftlbs of torque on nitrous and my stage 1 holds up just fine. Stage 2 is not really recommended because of its kevlar, and the fact that it might glaze over or something easier. Stage 3 holds even more power, but some people say it feels like a on/off switch and mot as dialy driveable. If you need lots of hold and daily driveability get a stage 3+. You can still slip it and it holds lots of power.

You should get a lightened flywheel while you are at it. I have one and I really enjoy it. You could also put in a limited slip differential while you are at it and the upgraded shift forks.
 
Also keep in mind it has been reported that as you go up in the stages and do most of your driving on the street, the longevity is compromised.
For everyday driving and getting on it every now and then and you have no major mods there is nothing wrong with a stage 1.
 
stealthy3L said:
that doesn't go to say it won't die tomorrow.

You run a 125 shot on a 130k motor reliablity theres something to be said there :cool:
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I'm not saying it won't go tomorrow. But to me, 50,000 miles on a performance clutch the way i have beat on it is goof enough. If it went out tomorrow i would replace it with the SPEC III+. Not because i didn't like the regular III. I would do that because it is said to hold more power so... :)

And my motor now has 146,000+ on it ;)
 
99cougar said:
When i swap motors in my car in the near future i want to replace just the clutch disc since my SPEC III has ovr 60,000 miles on it.

If you can get it, how much would JUST the disc for the SPEC 3+ be?
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i called SPEC tech support and asked about using the stage 3+ disc with the stage 3 pressure plate. they said it's not possible b/c the stage 3+ disc is thicker than the stage 3 disc, so it won't fit in the stage 3 pressure plate.
 
SoopaCooga said:
i called SPEC tech support and asked about using the stage 3+ disc with the stage 3 pressure plate. they said it's not possible b/c the stage 3+ disc is thicker than the stage 3 disc, so it won't fit in the stage 3 pressure plate.
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Yeah i've read that the stage 3+ uses the same pressure plate as the 4 and 5 do so they are not interchangeable.
 
for a 3-liter i can assume a stage one should be fine? and as far as a 2.5 turbo the stage 3+ would be better? i haven't decided which way i want to go but i want a clutch that will be good for either application.
 
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