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EGR pipe solutions?

K

KAOS_3.0

Hard-core CEG'er
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so...

I'm pretty determined to keep my EGR functioning.

what have any guys still running EGR done about heat shielding and that darned 5/8 coupling?

I've got all the mesh heat protection stuff from both egr pipes on it, but it still gets hot and smokes and it melted a hole in my evap that I had to rig up for now with duct tape. I'm also worried it's probably leaking at the 5/8 compression fitting, because it feels wiggly when you pull the uim off.

I'm thinking of going for two compression fittings, and a piece of 5/8 copper to give it a flex area so it wont wiggle loose when pulling the uim, sound smare? or does copper not stand up to 1500 degrees?

and what would you do to stop it from melting the earth in there? all that heat soak cant be good anyways, should I buy some header wrap or something? aluminum sheet metal shield? both?

thanks guys
 
the heat emanating from the egr isnt that much to warrant worry regarding its heating up other components. just make sure the egr pipe touches nothing. not sure what its called, but the plastic pipe that runs from the rear valve cover to the "T" juncture is made so that it doesnt touch the egr pipe. and the big bolt that u're referring to is tied down really well. if its coming loose, then the egr is being moved around too much.
 
Well because I know first hand what a uncovered EGR tube does :blackeye:..... I wrapped header wrap around the EGR tube and sewed up some sleeves with the wrap that go around the power wire there.
 
BAD SVT said:
the heat emanating from the egr isnt that much to warrant worry regarding its heating up other components. just make sure the egr pipe touches nothing. not sure what its called, but the plastic pipe that runs from the rear valve cover to the "T" juncture is made so that it doesnt touch the egr pipe. and the big bolt that u're referring to is tied down really well. if its coming loose, then the egr is being moved around too much.
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naw, I'm talking about the 5/8" brass compression fitting that is currently holding the taurus top half to the contour bottom half. I think it has wiggled loose from pulling the uim 10 times or so hunting down what proved to be an ignition problem.

so the EGR shouldn't get hot enough to smoke? would a leak cause that? could an egr leak also cause a loss in power at mid throttle under load?
 
Do you like when chicks step on your balls with high heels on as well?

Why keep it, its been proven to be useless on your mild everyday swap and is nothing but extra work.
 
Pudmunkie said:
Do you like when chicks step on your balls with high heels on as well?

Why keep it, its been proven to be useless on your mild everyday swap and is nothing but extra work.
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x2. I personally hate EGR, it makes for a dirty engine, provides more components to go bad, looks ugly, and is more work. If your determined to keep it I'd make a little dump tube for it.
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
naw, I'm talking about the 5/8" brass compression fitting that is currently holding the taurus top half to the contour bottom half. I think it has wiggled loose from pulling the uim 10 times or so hunting down what proved to be an ignition problem.

so the EGR shouldn't get hot enough to smoke? would a leak cause that? could an egr leak also cause a loss in power at mid throttle under load?
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what is probably causing your EGR to smoke would be the oil and grease you have probably gotten on it from handling it when you are working on your car.

Tighten it back up and wrap it with some header wrap, you will be fine.
 
2000ZxT said:
x2. I personally hate EGR, it makes for a dirty engine, provides more components to go bad, looks ugly, and is more work. If your determined to keep it I'd make a little dump tube for it.
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dump tube? could you elaborate for me?

ps: and pcv makes for a much dirtier engine. I'm fairly sure it does something fairly noticeable, or the penny pinchers at ford wouldn't have paid to make all those extra parts.

[edit]

if folks really want to make a thing about it, I'll believe some dyno sheets proving it's better to remove it. avrg fuel consumption is also important. if more than one person can make a solid case, I might budge from my current stance...
 
FunInNorthDakota said:
what is probably causing your EGR to smoke would be the oil and grease you have probably gotten on it from handling it when you are working on your car.

Tighten it back up and wrap it with some header wrap, you will be fine.
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OK. problem is I like to take the uim off to get to the back bank and dont want it wiggling loose everythime I do so. hence wanting to use two connections and a piece of copper for flex.

honestly, I cant see why they made it steel to start with, the other two small lines are silicone hose...
 
this is a cross post from my DTC/miss thread:

myself said:
ok, so I'm going to cross post this in the egr thread too. I foun why my egr has been smoking. one of the two silicone hoses has blown off. I had both hoses hooked to the EGR pressure feed back sensor, is that how its supposed to be? so much time passed between disassymbly and the build up I might have forgotten. I know I dont remember now. but at any rate, it's been blowing hot exhaust gas all over down there.

heres a few pics of when it was out of the car. I didn't take a pic specifically, but you can get the idea from the pics. if the EGR feedback sensor is supposed to hok up to the uim, I have no idea where, or what the other hose on the egr pipe would be for.

forumegrearlypice.jpg


forumegr1.jpg


forumegr2.jpg



and now for what I feel is about to be some bad news. the little rattle I've been thinking was dieseling from a miss, seems to have developed into some kind of tick from the rear valve cover on the timing chain side, right around the PAS pump. it now ticks at idle, abd the ticking clears up under light throttle, but it rattles when you give lay into the throttle while driving. this popped up on the way back from the store tonight. I'm hoping it's something repairable like a stuck lifter or something, bucause if I've wrecked a valve I really dont feel like trying to get a head off with the engine in the car. that was the whole reason for the swap in the first place...

any help guys, I'm starting to freak out a little, being that I'll be tossed out of my house in 45 days.
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torch and bend a 3L tube. i had that compression fitting.... they always leak.

like i've been saying. if EGR was for more than emissions testing, ford wouldnt make an egr delete kit!
 
i don't know where people are finding this super crazy fuel economy increase/performance increase with putting hot-carbon monoxide/air/crap/mixture into your engine idea came from.

its emissions. its just there to reburn some unburnt fumes to save them from going out the tailpipe and being tested as wasteful, and damaging to the ozone. its a waste of time.

go pay six damn dollars for an egr delete kit, cut out the huge pipe restricting your plastic UIM, and throw away the three pounds of egr crap you don't need. ugh.

its hot air, that is not oxygen rich!
 
the egr isn't to "reburn" exhaust gas, what would the point of reburning a 5/8 tube worth of it be?

the exhaust gas works like extra octane, stabilizing combustion, reducing detonation, and lowering combustion temperatures which lowers NoX emissions.

thanks for the advice on bending the taurus tube though man. so I heat up and rebend the taurus pipe, and then weld it to the contour manifold?

also, what happens with headers? do they have a bung for egr to be welded, or will I have to fabricate that when I get to putting headers on?

PS: I'm guessing the delete kit is for forieghn markets were emissions allow higher Nox levels (england). the nox levels arent why I want it though, I want it for the reduced risk of detonation, like if I put a ton of spray on there later...

also, I'm not sure if it would pass the visual inspection like that either, and mon top of that I just want everything under the hood to look as though it came that way.
 
lol. agreed.

no the egr bung is threaded. nothing needs to be welded you just gotta make sure you bend it right so it doesnt leak at the header.
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
the egr isn't to "reburn" exhaust gas, what would the point of reburning a 5/8 tube worth of it be?

the exhaust gas works like extra octane, stabilizing combustion, reducing detonation, and lowering combustion temperatures which lowers NoX emissions.

thanks for the advice on bending the taurus tube though man. so I heat up and rebend the taurus pipe, and then weld it to the contour manifold?

also, what happens with headers? do they have a bung for egr to be welded, or will I have to fabricate that when I get to putting headers on?

PS: I'm guessing the delete kit is for forieghn markets were emissions allow higher Nox levels (england). the nox levels arent why I want it though, I want it for the reduced risk of detonation, like if I put a ton of spray on there later...

also, I'm not sure if it would pass the visual inspection like that either, and mon top of that I just want everything under the hood to look as though it came that way.
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Do yourself a favor. Take our advice. Delete it. No one will know it is missing if you get it tuned out. The car will run fine without a tune for it as well. My car runs perfect with out it, and by looking under the hood, an average person will never know it is missing.
 
Brass compression fittings in that hot of an environment will never hold up. Why can't you listen to everyone? How many threads do you have that you refuse to listen to what is said?
 
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