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Fist time to the track

Heywood

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jan 24, 2006
Messages
1,422
Location
Montreal
Took my new 3l to the track last night, just for :censored::censored::censored::censored:s and giggles. Its a little 1/8th mile setup at the stadium that runs once a month. My best run of the night was against a wrx sti as follows:

RT .982
60ft 2.471
ET 10.002 @72.57
I was happy cause he got a quicker start and I pulled on him the length of the track (yes I know that means he was a crap driver :rolleyes:).
I did not have any luck hooking up off the line all night, my 60' times were all between 2.56 and 2.86 except for the pass above.

My best trap speed for the night was 73.29, which seemed slow for the power I've got. Car has dynoed at 200 whp. Also has deleted resonator and stage 3 clutch.

What do you think fellas?:shrug:
 
Practice launching the car. Every car likes a slightly different launch so you'll just have to practice. I can consistently get my 2.5 SVT in the 2.2XX 60' range and finally broke into the 2.1XX's towards the end of last year. You just have to be very smooth coming out of the hole... You want to accelerate on the verge of losing traction....

What kind of 3L is it? Ported, Hybrid or Full?

Nice to see more drag racers in here... :)
 
Its a ported 3l on an 03 sable engine, running the 3l injectors with custom tuning. Tune doesn't have a rev limiter in it so I can't just mash the pedal off the line which I thought would help me keep the wheel spin down.
I tried using the burnout pad and then driving around it without any real noticeable difference.Figured it wouldn't matter too much with street tires.

Does wheel spin have a big effect on trap speed? Thats what I was mostly unhappy with.
 
Here's a run i've got from when my car was untuned... 2.5L w/all the bolt ons and Torsen...

60' 2.275
330 6.463
1/8 9.950
MPH 71.29
1/4 15.394
MPH 89.97

Typically a high MPH and low 1/8th or 1/4 mile indicates poor traction. I'd practice that launch as that'll get you sub-10 second 1/8th mile and should get your trap speed up a little bit. Also, are you hot-lapping the car or letting it cool down between runs?
 
Water on street tires will NEVER help you gain traction. They are, by design, engineered to repel water. Avoid the waterbox.
 
Water on street tires will NEVER help you gain traction. They are, by design, engineered to repel water. Avoid the waterbox.

I must agree 1000000000000000x's its hillarious seeing people with street tires going through the burnout box, its pointless.
 
You could have at least quoted the entire sentence. The last few words wer "with custom tuning." Why wouldn't that be good? They should be 24# injectors which is plenty for a N/A 3L.

Mark


I didn't quote " with custom tuning" because it has no bearing on what i am refereing to.

3L injector are for oval port intakes only
2.5L injectors are for split port only.

the 3L injectors have a wide spray pattern which in a split port will cause fuel to accumualate down the port walls and not properly mix with air. need to use injectors with a 0 degree spray angle in a 3l engine that has split port intakes. oval port injectors in oval port intakes. remember the split port injector is way off center in the two ports and the oval port is dead center.

yes some have used split port injectors in oval port engines.


yes the sizing of the injectors and tuning for them is fine. however again the spray pattern isn't good.
 
Ahhh, I see. I didn't get that out of your initial post so I thought I'd ask. :cool:

Mark

yeah I suppose I could have been clearer. However I know there are a few threads in the 3L forum that have talked about this. plus I saw a car on the dyno that had oval port injectors and it swent lean on the top end. I am pretty certain it was because of the spray pattern and fuel not atomizing into the air stream.
 
yeah I suppose I could have been clearer. However I know there are a few threads in the 3L forum that have talked about this. plus I saw a car on the dyno that had oval port injectors and it swent lean on the top end. I am pretty certain it was because of the spray pattern and fuel not atomizing into the air stream.
You're a crazy man. I learn so much just from reading your posts.

While they were not mind-blowing, I must say that the OP's times were pretty good for a first timer. They were maybe 3 thenths off of those of a much more experienced driver. :cool:
 
You're a crazy man. I learn so much just from reading your posts.

While they were not mind-blowing, I must say that the OP's times were pretty good for a first timer. They were maybe 3 thenths off of those of a much more experienced driver. :cool:
Thanks for the props man, I was a bit disappointed not to break 10 seconds. I would have thought I would have been a lot faster with 200 whp.

As for the injector bit, I am aware of the different spray patterns, but I have not had any issues. Car pulls very strong up high.
 
As for the injector bit, I am aware of the different spray patterns, but I have not had any issues. Car pulls very strong up high.

have you monitored the a/f to know that its ok? Just because it pulls strong doesn't mean there isn't a problem.

I saw another 3L SVT on the dyno that put down the same numbers untuned that the other untuned 3L SVTs where but the a/f was getting into the 14's at high rpm. stoehic is good to a point. If it runs lean it will make power but you don't have any safety if it goes even leaner.
 
have you monitored the a/f to know that its ok? Just because it pulls strong doesn't mean there isn't a problem.

I saw another 3L SVT on the dyno that put down the same numbers untuned that the other untuned 3L SVTs where but the a/f was getting into the 14's at high rpm. stoehic is good to a point. If it runs lean it will make power but you don't have any safety if it goes even leaner.
I don't have a plot from when the car was tuned, but afr was monitored with a wideband sensor on the dyno, so it has been checked and dialed in in the tune.
 
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