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Starting 3L swap

J

jlm98silversvt

CEG'er
Joined
Oct 19, 2008
Messages
72
Location
san diego
buying a long block from 3Lduratec.com and about to do this swap. I got new 2.5L sensors , clutch, crank bolt, intake gaskets; is there anything else I'm missing? I want to have all parts in hand so I am not delayed waiting on parts. Anything else I should do while the engine is out of the car.
 
Ok, I'm not sure what all the 3Lduratec.com long block comes with as far as equipment so here goes. The oil pan, if it is the 3L oil pan, it will NOT bolt up to the MTX-75. the MTX-75 bell housing will match up with all the bolts but the last 2 on the bottom. this isnt really a problem because the top bolts are enough to hold it all together, but modification of the oil pan is up to you. You will probably break some of the bolts, its a given and unpredictable as to which bolts may or may not break during the swap, so be prepared to go to home depot or Fastenall for some hardware. As you said, a clutch kit is a must, if you are tearing it down that far, you might as well. Fidanza flywheel is also something to consider since you have to swap that out anyways, and while you have it apart a torsen or a quaife is also a good idea, provided the funds for such upgrades are available. I dont know if the 3Lduratec.com long block is tapped for the 2.5 knock sensor, look into that as well, if not it is an easy fix with a visit to car quest. I assume you are using the 2.5L intakes, if so new gaskets (UIM, LIM, TB, IAC, EGR) will be required. Also, while the engine is out of the car MSDS headers are a VERY worthwhile upgrade, trust me...putting headers in a FWD car while the motor is still in is no picnic. If you plan on using SVT cams, up to you, then you will need timing cover and valve cover gaskets as well. If you plan on using the stock crank dampener i would recommend upgrading to the dual mode dampener or DMD. If not, i would say got for an underdrive crank pulley if you can find one. Thats a decent upgrade. Also solid motor mounts to reduce travel in the transaxle while it is mounted in the car. You can make them yourself with your stock mounts by filling them with urethane or you can buy them from Nautilus. This is just a start to all the upgrades and modifications you can do to make your life easier in the long run. All the resources, including tutorials, you will ever need are here on CEG. Check out Blu's thread for a detailed step by step walk through of the swap.
 
jlm98silversvt said:
buying a long block from 3Lduratec.com and about to do this swap. I got new 2.5L sensors , clutch, crank bolt, intake gaskets; is there anything else I'm missing? I want to have all parts in hand so I am not delayed waiting on parts. Anything else I should do while the engine is out of the car.
Click to expand...

I'd recommend headers and if you have the money a Torsen would be a good idea at the moment while everything is out of the car. You shouldn't need new 2.5L sensors unless your old ones are bad. SVT clutch should be perfect. Pick up fluids and an oil filter if you haven't already. Make sure your plug wires are in good shape. If not pick up a set of OEM plug wires (Ford wires only). Exhaust bolts would be the only bolts that might snap due to heat and corrosion. If you plan on going with our supercharger in the future stick with the stock crank pulley. The DMD is too wide for our supercharger drive pulley to stack on.

-We use the 3L pan so the lower to pan to transmission bolts will need to be skipped. We've always done it this way even on our personal 3L's. No problems.
-Block is trimmed on the transmission mating surface so the SVT oil cooler bolts up.
-New Autolite double platinum plugs come gapped and installed in the motor so no need to worry about those.
-Knock sensor is tapped if he has a SVT Contour or older Cougar. 01-02 Cougars use the new 3L style sensor.
-We swap on valve cover and timing cover when they are sent to us so the customer doesn't need to worry about those gaskets unless they are planning on removing the covers when they receive the motor for some reason.
-Contact us for SVT cam install if you want to go that route or any other questions. PM me or email us through the site.

~Chris
 
don't forget zetec final drive.

I was just looking for a link that explains exactly what hardware i need to change. could someone point toward a how to post or explain what it is that you need out of the zetec trans.

I understand that sometimes the shaft could be different but does someone have a picture of how to tell the difference between shafts. and a picture of exactly what i'm taking out of the zetec trans.
 
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