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Intake question

Phoenix33

CEG'er
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
90
Location
Eastern Iowa
Ive been asking a lot of questions lately sorry if im going over my quota hahaha, ive been looking around for an intake system, from ebay to nautilusperformance.com. im a little confused as to what i can do, would just throwing a K&N filter in the stock air box make a difference?

Either that or could i just take any open filter and attach it instead of the airbox, if i understand right i would have to buy one of these to do that right http://www.nautilusperformance.com/catalog/i21.html

ive also read things about a heat shield, where would i find one of these?
sorry for so many questions but ive found that people on this website are worlds more informative than the people at advance auto :D

p.s. I dont even know if i posted this in the right section my bad if i didnt.
 
Not the right place but they'll move it for you soon enough. In my opinion its not worth the cost, effort or modification to do the CAI and adding an open cone filter (without adding a heat shield) defeats the purpose of the stock intake that draws cool air from the fender and not from around the engine. What I ended up doing was getting a AFE ProDry performance filter instead of a K&N because it filters better and doesnt need to be washed and oiled (messy!) like the K&N does.
 
I'm going to give you the short and sweet version of my explanation of K&N filters (or any high performance OEM filter replacement).

Yes the (insert name of aftermarket filter here) flows more CFMs than a standard paper filter, but if you put your airbox on a flowbench and check it, you will find that your airbox flows even less air than your stock filter. Put a stock filter in the airbox, and it will not change. There is enough surface area on your stock filter that it will flow as much air as you can get into your airbox. Any high performance OEM replacement filter is a waste of money.

If you want more air flow you need to get rid of the air box and replace it with an open element filter, or use a cold air intake with an open element filter to draw more air in.

The biggest restriction on your intake system is the air box, that should be abundently clear when you open it up and see the dinky little hole that it sucks air in from your fender.

you can get a maf adapter or the CAI and a cone filter. If you just use the maf adapter then a heatshield will help slightly. You can make one by using the search function for instructions.
 
it seems to me that an open filter would only help when the motor is cold, the under hood temps on my car arent by any means ool air, seems likeyou would just be pumping more and more hot air into the motor, which doesnt help. im sticking with my stock setup with the K&N filter, was thinking since i have an extra filter cover I might cut hole in the box and see if it helps air flow and since the hot air might hurt it just go back to stock if that doesnt help.
 
If you want more air flow you need to get rid of the air box and replace it with an open element filter, or use a cold air intake with an open element filter to draw more air in.

The biggest restriction on your intake system is the air box, that should be abundently clear when you open it up and see the dinky little hole that it sucks air in from your fender.

Wanting more flow is very different than needing more flow though. Even if the air box, resonator or filter is a restriction its still going to hit the throttle body which is restrictive by design. Thats why in my mind its almost never worth thinking about unless you have a car like the MazdaSpeed3 where ditching the air box unlocks 20hp.
 
Wanting more flow is very different than needing more flow though. Even if the air box, resonator or filter is a restriction its still going to hit the throttle body which is restrictive by design. Thats why in my mind its almost never worth thinking about unless you have a car like the MazdaSpeed3 where ditching the air box unlocks 20hp.

Agreed...on a stock application.(referring to our cars). An open air element (short intake)has been shown to dyno only 1-2whp..Which we all know could be the % difference between dyno runs. :crazy:

Now nobody has dyno'd the natulius cold air intake..But i don't think the difference would be that great. Maybe a little better throttle response.
 
Agreed...on a stock application.(referring to our cars). An open air element (short intake)has been shown to dyno only 1-2whp..Which we all know could be the % difference between dyno runs. :crazy:

Now nobody has dyno'd the natulius cold air intake..But i don't think the difference would be that great. Maybe a little better throttle response.

yeah i definately agree. Even a CAI on a stock car or lightly modded car doesnt make much difference in most cases. but it sure does sound good lol
 
discussion thread in the pics section of intakes:


http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=40613&highlight=intake

Get this:

Pud heatshield, svt UIM, svt TB, cone intake (replace the accordian tube with the BAT pipe)

newpics047.jpg
 
to add fuel to the fire, here is a dyno of a car for sale in the new england classifieds showing the difference between a stock svt paper filter vs an amsoil dryflow drop in replacement:
1999SVTConouroemfiltervsAmsoilfi-1.jpg


I'd say those are solid numbers for a drop in replacement.
 
I'd want to see at least 2 more charts showing that jump to get excited about it since back to back runs always vary. But a part of me is already excited because I have a dry performance filter in there. :)
 
the only time i ever felt a difference in power from an intake was when i went from a maf adaptor with no heat shield and a KKM filter to a CAI that pulled air from the front bumper.

of course my car was probably starving for air being a ported 3L with headers back exhaust and svt cams.


i will tell you though, the biggest restriction is the maf housing itself.
 
the only time i ever felt a difference in power from an intake was when i went from a maf adaptor with no heat shield and a KKM filter to a CAI that pulled air from the front bumper.

of course my car was probably starving for air being a ported 3L with headers back exhaust and svt cams.


i will tell you though, the biggest restriction is the maf housing itself.

Thats where i agree with you tricker.

svt tb=60mm = 495 cfms @6,800 rpms
Stock tb 70mm exit. But with the center post positioned directly in the middle it reduces cfm flow area down to 55.8mm = 460 cfms

I'm emphasizing on the down too...not to mislead everyone. Because the maf is measured only by exit area which is 70mm:cool:
 
yeah. i noticed my biggest gain in intakes going from the stock housing and sensor to the pro-flow 75mm housing with the small tube instead of the bar in the middle, and i used my stock sensor so the air/fuel ratio was compensated for the difference :) gonna go up to a 80mm lightning maf possibly.
 
yeah. i noticed my biggest gain in intakes going from the stock housing and sensor to the pro-flow 75mm housing with the small tube instead of the bar in the middle, and i used my stock sensor so the air/fuel ratio was compensated for the difference :) gonna go up to a 80mm lightning maf possibly.

NO need.....adding your stock maf sensor is going to make your car run lean. Well it should. The sensor was created with the mindset that the bar is always present. Removing it which obviously increases air flow...is tricking the pcm.

I'd rather you get a 80 mm maf instead of using what your using now :)
 
the 75mm proflow maf doesnt make the car run lean. it seems to hold the same afr. i wouldnt have tried it if i didnt have a wideband 02. but i do wanna go with the 80mm lightning maf, as its plastic and won't pull in so much heat.
 
I have a few C&L MAF housings lying around. One 73mm, one 76mm, would it be a good idea to put just plug the stock MAF sensor into one of these and throw it in? It'd be free for me to do it.
 
i don't suggest trying stuff like this. i do, because i have a wideband. my car, when i went to my 90mm maf and lightning airbox, ran lean at wot. idle was fine, and the car felt normal, but at WOT it was at like 15:1 afr. it adjusted itself after about 50 miles. but without the wideband, i woudla been doing long pulls at lean afr. with the wideband, i knew to get off the gas once it went lean, and it adjusted itself perfectly after a drive to the city.
 
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