Looking for some recomendations...

[TikeCSVT]

Alright so heres the deal i got going on. I got my CSVT about month ago and since then i dont think ive gone more than a few hours without logging onto this website and reading like crazy. Now i just crossed into 100,000 miles and im thinking i caught that horrible rod knock. But i does confuse me, shouldnt that knocking sound happen everytime I rev my engine? Cuz i only get it if im in gear and driving, I figured this out when trying to hear where exaclty its coming from, ha and i dont think i can drive and put my ear up to there! Can someone explain that to me? WHy it only happens when in gear and accelerateing but not when just reving my engine?

Anyways before you rip me a new one for posting in the wrong section let me say what i started writing here to say. I been reading all about 3L swaps and I think that Im going to go with a Port-Matched swap.
But before I make any real choices I figured id ask the fellas that kno best.
I want to boost my engine one day but that sur eisnt guna happen at the same time as the swap. What do you all reccomend as the best swap for later boost. Also once i get the engine i will be taking it completely apart to clean and powder coat it, when putting it back together is there anyting I should take car of replacing for the boost I want later?Anyting you reccomend upgrading in advance? That sort of thing?

Thanks for any help guys. And lastly This question is sort of half about 3L but could also be considered Forced Induction, so moderators go ahead and put me in the Forced Induction section if you think I should be there instead.

 

[blu_fuz]

I will reply to the powder coating because I don't know jack about 3L's .

I would not recommend powder coating the heads/block. The heads I would not because they would be prone to warp at the baking temps of powder coating and then you will have problems you created yourself. The block, I am just not sure on. It would look nice but you can really only see 5% of the block from any angle you look at it when it is installed. You have time to think about it and call around to your local powder coaters and ask them what they think about the baking temps effecting the parts. Good luck with the build . - JOE

 

[PurpleMystique]

Check out this thread: Link

They go in depth regarding 3.0 and turbos.

 

[Blackcoog]

Either the full 3L build or the ported 3L build will be fine for boost. I'd recommend keeping the internals stock. It's expensive to upgrade internals and the 3L's seem to hold 300-400whp fairly well. I prefer the ported setup so all the stock connections work making it less of hassle to install and service down the line. Again that's just my preference. There are quite a few that are fond of the full 3L's as well.

As far as your rod knock it would happen every time you rev the motor. You may have a differential that is about to blow up if it's only happening in gear.

 

[CollinsPC]

Well the heads won't warp if done properly. Aluminium Motorcycle heads are done all the time. You can bake them at a lower temp for a longer period if you are worried and get amazing results. Find a reputable coater and talk to them. Aluminium heads will withstand the cure cycle for normal powders.