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Optimal 3L Turbo Setup?

Epheron

CEG'er
Joined
May 10, 2008
Messages
132
Location
Ocala, Fl
I posted my build on the Southeast Board and have gotten quite the reaction as to which ways I could go or improve my performance for the money.

People seemed to have their different opinions, but I keep seeing two particular characters pop up more than others--3 and L. Not wanting to scrap my build idea and start from square one, I initially shot down any thoughts of the swap.

There must be a reason everyone's screaming 3L at the top of their lungs. The more I thought about it, the more I realized that everyone is right--For the money, a 3L swap is the best performance upgrade and makes the most sense. My build made sense, but not as a one-part-at-a-time upgrade.

So instead of shooting the swap down again, I figured I'd do the research and found out that the more I thought I knew and the more I read, the more questions I had.

Using the search function, I ended up confusing myself more than answering any real questions. I spent hours in a futile attempt to wade through the flaming seas trying to find any real answer to my question.

My patience for the search function exhausted, I decided for the better good, I'd start reading from the beginning of the 3L Duratec board. 27 pages--24 (estimated) of which containing half answered and repeated questions and unreported results. Honestly, I didn't get through but maybe 15 pages before completely giving up.

There simply wasn't enough information specific to my intended build. It just seems that the information is so split up between the different boards and so much of the work done to the cars has been little but an 'afterthought' mod--instead of a fully planned build--that the process just has not been properly documented.

So I pose this series of questions to the people who know these cars and engines best:

What year VIN S Sable or Taurus motor (02-05)?

Using this particular motor: what setup provides best power 3L in a boosted application (NPG IC'd Turbo) without sacrificing [any more] engine life (such as running higher compression). Preferrably with high end power over low to mid end to make it drivable in everyday situations.

1 - Port matched heads with SVT LIM or 3L LIM?

2 - SVT 2.5L or 2004 Taurus/Sable 3L cams?

3 - 2.5L Heads or 3L Heads? Answered by BrApple - 3L Heads to keep compression lower.

4 - Which UIM? 2.5L to retain IMRC or 3L and delete IMRC? Which year 3L?

5 - Would you delete the EGR?

I would really like to hear from people who drive 3.0L, boosted 3L (Turbo'd or SC'd), and anyone who has done a 3L swap. I want to make sure I spend my money to do it properly instead of twice. If required I'd rather have a complicated pre-build and have something to show for it then a simple drop-in job and have my car gimping along.
 
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attempt to wade through the flaming seas


I understand your frustration completely.

I don't have a 3L installed yet, so I won't comment on your questions to give the veterans an opportunity to answer. I have no intentions of turbo'ing my 3L swap, so I have no idea what 3.0L is ideal for the turbo setup.

I've started a thread on my build that asks some of the same questions. While it's not a turbo build, it may help you some. In a few weeks I hope to have posted the details of a completed and running port-matched swap.

Good luck.
 
I am sure my son will agree with this statement. Get a 3.0 first, it has way more torque than a 2.5.

My car and my son's both have turbos. Mine is a 3.0 and his is a 2.5. I run 10 mph faster in the 1/4 mile with the same boost. It is very apparent on the highway when I want to pass, it just goes right now. No downshifting just acceleration right now.

His is great also, just different. Torque is really king.
 
I saw the same thing between an SVT 2.5L turbo and my 3L turbo at 8 psi on the highway. I just punched it in 5th and pretty much stayed right with him after he downshifted to 4th. did the same thing to a MS3 too ...
 
What year VIN S Sable or Taurus motor (02-05)?

yes, or escape

Using this particular motor: what setup provides best power 3L in a boosted application (NPG IC'd Turbo) without sacrificing [any more] engine life (such as running higher compression). Preferrably with high end power over low to mid end to make it drivable in everyday situations.

you definately do not want higher compression. alot of where the power "comes on" is based on the turbo sizing.

Porting or no porting? I was reading earlier that porting out the heads can lower the intake velocity, subsequently skewing the air/fuel ratio. Which builds have porting as a requirement?

never heard about it skewing the a/f ratio. that is read after combustion so it is what it is ..... slowing intake velocity, yes. but the turbo build pressure so that really isn't an issue anymore.

Since the Cam measurement is almost the same for the SVT 2.5L and the 2004 Taurus/Sable 3L, which should I use? Or did I misread--and they are the same? And if they're the same, that would mean no difference in perfomance one way or the other installing the SVT cams in a 3L head?

they are not the same. the 3l cams have power in the midrange and the svt cams are more top end. but the 3l gives you some more low end anyway.

Am I right in assuming that even if there is no difference in the cams in the heads, there is a difference in the heads themselves? Will installing 2.5L Heads on a 3.0L block raise the compression?

yes 2.5L heads on a 3L block increases compression. this is a hybrid 3L and you don't want that unless you are going on the bottle ....

If I used the 2.5L cams, should I put in new guides and tensioners?

up to you

What upper intake manifold and will I need to use a the NPG returnless fuel rails or the LIM adapter mod? If the lower intake adapter mod only minimizes the modifications to the oval port heads, which modifications need to be made? Do any 3L come with a split port UIM or is that the 2.5L?

wow .... need to read the stickies/discriptions closer .... the NPG LIM mod is so you can bolt the stock 2.5L UIM to the oval port 3L. If you do this you don't need to port the 3L heads for the split port intake. yes 3L came with split ports, but thats pre 2001 .... no need for an engine that old let alone some of the other issues you should have read about ....

In what builds do I need to delete the IMRC? Do you feel that deleting the EGR is optimal for power, or does it really lower fuel efficiency in exchange for small unmeasurable gains?

did you read any of the stickies? the straight 3L you delete the secondaries. you need a tune to do it also .... there have been threads on the egr, up to you ....

I would really like to hear from people who drive 3.0L, boosted 3L (Turbo'd or SC'd), and anyone who has done a 3L swap. I want to make sure I spend my money to do it properly instead of twice. If required I'd rather have a complicated pre-build and have something to show for it then a simple drop-in job and have my car gimping along.


check out the stickies. they discribe the 3 build types and there are part number lists and even threads that tell you how to complete the build ....
 
check out the stickies. they discribe the 3 build types and there are part number lists and even threads that tell you how to complete the build ....

Has anyone documented a complete build of a port-matched swap into a CSVT (E1 model)? I haven't found it yet if there is.
 
Has anyone documented a complete build of a port-matched swap into a CSVT (E1 model)? I haven't found it yet if there is.


http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=26823&highlight=ported

however the title on that thread is not correct but it has what you are looking for.

look at blu-fuz build thread also. although that was on a 95 alot of the things are the same.

really to build a ported 3L you just port the 3L heads. everything else swaps over from the 2.5L, intake, alternator, cams if wanted, oil cooler if an svt, etc ...


there is also a nice thread on neco about port matching also ....
 
I should have written the original post differently. What I was aiming for was people's opinions on what would make the best engine to turbocharge. What year engine, what parts, etc. I guess I confused with my personal questions I was looking for answers to.



BrApple, I have nothing but respect for you. You've already helped me out a ton in finding answers to my various questions. Know that I did read the stickies, but having only a baseline knowledge of cars in general, sometimes things that come up I don't understand. I am trying though.
 
BrApple, I have nothing but respect for you. You've already helped me out a ton in finding answers to my various questions. Know that I did read the stickies, but having only a baseline knowledge of cars in general, sometimes things that come up I don't understand. I am trying though.


sorry if I came across harsh. but things like how the NPG lim mod works, and what 3l engines where split port and which are oval port are well documented and have been covered a number of time in different threads. I just find it odd that you didn't pick up that info when reading what you did.
 
What is NPG? I've never seen a board that uses so many acronyms. It's hard to keep up with you guys sometimes. Someone should create a sticky somewhere just of common used acronyms.
 
No need to apologize. You're right. And I did know, I was just confusing UIM oval ports and oval porting heads. I was tired and just overthinking.

But back to the -intended question-.

I gathered from what you have said so far that I should swap in an almost full 3L, with 2.5L cams for a higher RPM power band. What year model engine would you recommend and which upper intake? What aftermarket parts (e.g. NPG) will need to be added?
 
I gathered from what you have said so far that I should swap in an almost full 3L, with 2.5L cams for a higher RPM power band. What year model engine would you recommend and which upper intake? What aftermarket parts (e.g. NPG) will need to be added?


most swaps now aday use the 3L block, lower end and heads. most swap in the svt cams with the chains and related timing components. it is suggested to use a 04/05 engine.

as for the intake its up to you. what one do you like better, do you like having secondaries?

you can go straight 3L and that will use the 3l intake and remove the secondaries.

you can use the 2.5l intake with the npg lim mod and just bolt everything together and remove the secondaries.

or you can go ported 3l and use the 2.5l lim and uim and keep the secondaries.

i have the secondaries and 2.5l uim on my car. from a stop its almost seamless with power application from the turbo. on the highway boost will come on before the secondaries open if I just floor it. only down side I have noticed.
 
Are you confused as to the difference in port style? the 2.5 has 2 ports, a main and a "secondary". The mains run all the time, while the secondaries open under full throttle high RPM use. The 3L uses oval ports with no secondaries. Its all personal preferance, but like it was said before, IF you delete your secondaries... GET A TUNE. Otherwise your lowend you wanted to gain from the 3L will be in vain. Because the engine computer is programmed for a fuel curve where secondaries are present, the air fuel mix before the secondaries open will be off and you will loose all lowend. If you want to test it out for yourself, ziptie or some how rig your secondaries open and drive around for a few days. Your lowend will be in the toilet. If you want to keep your secondaries, personally i like the little burst in power at just about 4 grand, you need to port match the intake ports on the 3L. google "hybrid action". You will find everything you need to know about porting the heads, including adapter plates that make it very simple. I also used these intakes because i used SVT cams in my build, i wanted to keep the car SVT. I also didnt want to have to weld an EGR tube and braze my fuel rail to a returnless style since i dont have an Escape LIM... But more and more people are using the full 3L, EG: 3L block, 3L cams, and 3L intakes. You can use either one...it just all depends on how much work, and where you want your power band to hit. I used an 03 motor, anything 01 to 05 is usible, the new ones have VCT which is just a hassle to deal with and would require more work than it is worth. BUT the Escape 3L intake WILL NOT FIT in your car, you have the option to move to the often talked about ST220 Mondeo UIM, or you pick up a Taurus/Sable UIM. If you do get your motor and decide to do a full rebuild NPG has alot of upgraded internals that can be used for high boost applications (forged rods and pistons and even upgraded bearings). For you, i think the first thing you should order is the MSDS headers, while the motor is out they are most defiantly worth the money. Next i would try to find an underdrive pulley, they are also something that will add power and are very easy to install. A Fidanza flywheel or SPEC flywheel are options as well. The SPEC i believe is heavier than the Fidanza. A cold air intake will benefit you as well, but it wont really do much if you are using SVT induction. Polly roll resistors are a decent investment too, if you like to dump it like i do...that wheel hop you feel will shatter your differential. The roll resistors will result in a rougher feel because of the decreased shock absorption, but are well worth it. On the topic of your transmission, you may want to look into a Quaife or a Torsen LSD because the less tire you spin, the more power that hits the pavement and plants your a** in the seat. Most of these upgrades can be found at NPG, and every tutorial you would ever need can be found here on the forums.
 
Are you confused as to the difference in port style? the 2.5 has 2 ports, a main and a "secondary". The mains run all the time, while the secondaries open under full throttle high RPM use. The 3L uses oval ports with no secondaries. Its all personal preferance, but like it was said before, IF you delete your secondaries... GET A TUNE. Otherwise your lowend you wanted to gain from the 3L will be in vain. Because the engine computer is programmed for a fuel curve where secondaries are present, the air fuel mix before the secondaries open will be off and you will loose all lowend. If you want to test it out for yourself, ziptie or some how rig your secondaries open and drive around for a few days. Your lowend will be in the toilet. If you want to keep your secondaries, personally i like the little burst in power at just about 4 grand, you need to port match the intake ports on the 3L. google "hybrid action". You will find everything you need to know about porting the heads, including adapter plates that make it very simple. I also used these intakes because i used SVT cams in my build, i wanted to keep the car SVT. I also didnt want to have to weld an EGR tube and braze my fuel rail to a returnless style since i dont have an Escape LIM... But more and more people are using the full 3L, EG: 3L block, 3L cams, and 3L intakes. You can use either one...it just all depends on how much work, and where you want your power band to hit. I used an 03 motor, anything 01 to 05 is usible, the new ones have VCT which is just a hassle to deal with and would require more work than it is worth. BUT the Escape 3L intake WILL NOT FIT in your car, you have the option to move to the often talked about ST220 Mondeo UIM, or you pick up a Taurus/Sable UIM. If you do get your motor and decide to do a full rebuild NPG has alot of upgraded internals that can be used for high boost applications (forged rods and pistons and even upgraded bearings). For you, i think the first thing you should order is the MSDS headers, while the motor is out they are most defiantly worth the money. Next i would try to find an underdrive pulley, they are also something that will add power and are very easy to install. A Fidanza flywheel or SPEC flywheel are options as well. The SPEC i believe is heavier than the Fidanza. A cold air intake will benefit you as well, but it wont really do much if you are using SVT induction. Polly roll resistors are a decent investment too, if you like to dump it like i do...that wheel hop you feel will shatter your differential. The roll resistors will result in a rougher feel because of the decreased shock absorption, but are well worth it. On the topic of your transmission, you may want to look into a Quaife or a Torsen LSD because the less tire you spin, the more power that hits the pavement and plants your a** in the seat. Most of these upgrades can be found at NPG, and every tutorial you would ever need can be found here on the forums.

You're off topic. I am already 90% sure what I'm going to do with my car with exception of what 3L build I'll be using. Do you have any suggestions as to what engine build you would use?
 
Fwiw, for cam choice, I'd say the '04+ 3.0L cams would make the most sense for typical turbo setups. Don't even consider the base 2.5L cams, or the '03 and earlier 3.0L cams w/ the lower lift.

The SVT cams will work better than the earlier cams, but the extra overlap and duration won't be helpful on a turbo engine unless you are going all out with it, and the drivetrain and traction limits make that a moot point anyway. But, the SVT cams are still a far better choice than the base 2.5L and early 3.0L cams. But the best choice for a turbo car will still be the later 3.0L cams.

Intake manifold choice for a turbo 3.0L is less critical than an NA setup. The negatives of several of the options can be minimized simply by turning up the boost level just a little bit.

For oval port heads, the optimal choice still remains the ST220 manifold, or the later plastic manifolds that were modeled after the ST220 internally.
The earlier plastic manifolds are ok here too, but will be more restrictive as rpm gets in the higher ranges, but again, a little extra boost pressure can minimize the downsides.
The stock SVT split-port manifold into an oval port head, either port-matched or with the NPG adaptor, is the least desirable (NPG adapter is much better than the port-matching though) but it is terribly convenient when putting the engine togther, and the downsides again can be largely downplayed with a little extra boost pressure to make up for less than ideal flow.

I still think that one of the best possible options, would be a max-extrude honed stock SVT intake setup into a split port head with 3.0L chambers and valves and retaining the IMRCs. The kinetix and prodrive prepped motors for WC and BTCC cars had the option of using either split port or the oval port, and in the end chose split port becuase it worked better. Unfortunately, I don't think anyone on here will be spending the cash on their contour to confirm or deny this . . .

Of course, the very best option would be to use the cylinder heads and intake manifolds from an '09 Escape . . . but nobody has tried them yet, and nobody knows for sure if they will fit under a contour hood, lol.

Maybe I need to dig up one of the old intake/cam threads and get back into the best choices for different applications since everyone seems to have forgotten.
 
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