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Sputtering and misfiring...is there no end??

tarterd

New CEG'er
Joined
Oct 9, 2002
Messages
11
Okay gents,

Here’s my dilemma. Car is practically going through convulsions at the moment. A lot of sputtering and misfiring; which began almost three years ago. I’ve tried working it out through the sage advice in the forum, but I’ve run into a brick wall.

I have a 95 SE, 2.5, MTX w/84,000 miles. I’ve only made two puny mods, the KKM intake and Eibach springs. The KKM went in around summer 2002 after reading what I saw here and liking the reviews.

I point out the KKM install for a reason – shortly thereafter (12-18 months), is when I started experiencing the first indications of coughing and spitting. It wasn’t bad at first, but got progressively worse. Even after re-installing the stock intake, the misfires kept on coming, so I ruled out the KKM as the culprit for the problem. In summer 2005, dove down to Germany from Norway and the DPFE hoses popped off on the trip back up north.

Did the forum research and completed the following without breaking or ruining anything: the TB clean, the UIM clean, and cleaned the IAC valve. Posted a help question on the forum and was led to either the Bank 1 pre-cat was clogged or the DPFE was bad. Replaced the DPFE and both hoses hoping the pre-cat was not the issue. Misfire symptoms continued and within three months, the ceramic in the underbody cat failed and was banging like an out of tune church bell. Got fed up and replaced the entire exhaust system down to the underbody cat. Expected the sputtering to go away; but nope, car’s still acting like a ----- still sputtering and misfiring.

The only time the acceleration is smooth is when the car is under load, above 3000 RPMs, a sudden surge of power and smoothness emerges at over 3500 RPMs. Other symptoms are when the car is in 2nd and 3rd gears at under 2000 RPMs, I hear what sounds like back blasts (or low-toned pops) in the exhaust chambers; at least it sounds like that’s where they’re located. Like the fuel is either too rich or too lean. The pops go away when the RPMs are over 2000. Forgot to mention, the CEL first showed itself in summer 2005 during the trip back to Norway. It has not returned following the full exhaust install. I plan to have them read at a Ford dealer tomorrow if I can get in. It will probably cost me $100; everything is expensive here and almost nothing is free.

Sorry for the long-winded version; but as you can see, there was history.

Thanks in advance for any and all offers of assistance.

PS - Does anyone know of any really good re-build shops on the east coast that cater to Contours? Preferably points in the Chesapeake Bay area (MD or VA) and potential points further north. I'd hate to get rid of the car and am considering a nearly complete engine re-build down the road.
 
You are correct - wires, no. Plugs were replaced in fall 2004. If memory serves me correctly, I believe they were NGKs.
 
various things you may want to check;

- spark plugs
- wires
- COIL PACK
- groundings


Also maybe its your plug wires and spark plug compatability. I know when I put in my magnecor wires and new Autolite DP spark plugs. The car missfired soo much to the point that i had wasted about $100 on changing spark plugs alone. I call up magnecor hoping they might send me a new one, the dude tells me that Magnecor is very very picky on what plugs are used with it. I tried cheapo champion plugs the next day and BAM, 3 months worth of hard ache and missfire GONE..
 
Don't remember the exact gap, but am pretty sure I followed a credible recommendation.

I'd be surprised if the problem stems from the plugs; as the issue began well before the change. Come to think about it, I changed the plugs hoping to resovle the issue. No dice...:(

Everything seems to revolve around the exhaust, given the sequence of failures following the KKM install.

Concerning the wires, they are stock and look to be in good shape. The coil pack is an interesting thought.

From sputtering, to DPFE hoses failure, to underbody cat failure. And even after the new exhaust system....I can see why you're maybe leaning in another direction; but would the plugs create this much of a malfunction?

What if the plugs are gapped correctly; any ideas on some other cause?
 
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Just wanted to chime in regarding the popping noises you hear.
I've heard the same thing on my '95 SE a couple months back. It appears to be gone...but then again, I've changed/replaced so much crap there's no telling what cured it.
I found that if I put my ear against the stock air intake box, you can really hear it pretty good. You can also hear it if you slightly open the airbox. It's like a reverse backfire in the intake system or something.

As for the Magnecores and their pickyness for plugs....I find that REALLY bizzare and almost hard to believe...not that they told you that, but rather that it's actually true.
I 'had' Magnecores and as part of my attempts to fix my current problems I replaced them. Didn't make any difference. Then switched to Autolights with the new wires. No difference again. I was originally running Bosche +4 with the Magnecores and it ran great.
.....then that dreaded day came. I finally had to have the dealership change the engine wiring harness. Then all my problems began.....but that's another thread.
 
Where are you located? Get the codes scanned. Yes, some Autozones or Advance do have the Actron 9145 with adaptors for OBDI (1995 models).

Check the SP gaps. Should be 0.054 inch.

In addition, as you say that the car drives well at high RPMs, maybe the secondaries are stuck on open. I think for the 1995 vacuum operated secondaries, the default is open, so you may have a massive vacuum leak (broken hose or something causing the secondary butterfly valves to not close on start up).

If you still have the old air filter housing, reinstall it and see if it helps.
 
Don't rule out spark plug wires! I had the same symptoms for a long time, and it ended up being the spark plug wires. They need to be changed... it is just routine mantience.

And Tony, do you think it could possibly be a bad fuel filter, fuel pump, or clogged fuel pump screen!?!?


Just trying to give him all his options, but I would defenitly change your wires! By a set of Taylor Thundervolts 8.2mm! I love them way more than my Ford Racing wires.



Jeff
 
...And Tony, do you think it could possibly be a bad fuel filter, fuel pump, or clogged fuel pump screen!?!?
...
Yes, it could be a possibility,... but the pump and screen are not cheap nor easy. I try to suggest the cheap and easy ones first. Fuel filter is cheap and easy. ;)
 
Don't rule out spark plug wires! I had the same symptoms for a long time, and it ended up being the spark plug wires. They need to be changed... it is just routine mantience.

And Tony, do you think it could possibly be a bad fuel filter, fuel pump, or clogged fuel pump screen!?!?


Just trying to give him all his options, but I would defenitly change your wires! By a set of Taylor Thundervolts 8.2mm! I love them way more than my Ford Racing wires.



Jeff

Thanks gents for all the suggestions. In order, I'll focus on the wires, a cleaning of the fuel pump screen (this is the one under the rear seat, correct?), and coil pack. I don't expect the plugs as they were newly installed and not likely to be the problem. However, I will check to see of the gap measures up.

Have not gotten in to have the codes read yet. Working too long hours. Hopefully tomorrow, then I'll post an add on to the thread.

Three more questions -

Jeff, is there an online source for the hyped up wires? I need an APO delivery to overseas. And which plugs do you recommend with those wires?

Does anyone have any ideas for an east coast re-build shop?

Thanks a mil...
 
I would try autolite plugs and wires. Don't use anything besides Autolite (or motorcraft) wires, and stay away from +anything plugs for sure.
 
I would try autolite plugs and wires. Don't use anything besides Autolite (or motorcraft) wires, and stay away from +anything plugs for sure.

Autolites are great because they are affordable, and have a lifetime warrenty. Motorcraft wires are great too (obviously) and are know to last a long time, but cost a little too much for me. There is nothing wrong with Taylor Thundervolts for $55 though! They are great wires, and have been around a long time. I know that some people a long time ago had a few fitmit issues with them, but that has been resolved and now Taylor wires fit like a gem. Magnecores are also great wires although they are a little pricey too!

Yeah, I agree with anthony... I would stay away with +4 quad platium plugs and stuff... they just aren't for the duratech and defenitly not worth the money in my opinion...

As for which plugs you should get, just do a few searches and read about the choices. Everybody has their own opinions, just choose the ones that sound best for your application.


Jeff
 
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