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siezed svt 2.5L

OB1 said:
Thats What you should do just swap the hose to the EGR.



I've seen a few that had COP. There was a thread in pics & vids a while back where some guy had a beater/DD Sable i think it was an 01 & it had COP.
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yea I think i'm safe its a oval port with a cam driven water pump. I looked on the autozone website and a few others and they list both cop and standard coils. I was just worried that I got an older motor.
 
ok guys, well I've got the motor out and starting to swap things over now. my first problem is the crankshaft position sensor, the harness in on my 2.5 is shot (wires are exposed) so I'm wondering if I can use the one on the 3L and splice it into my 2.5 harness? (like the Knock sensor I'm about to do) I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be a problem but just to be on the safe side I'm gonna ask you guys. the other is......this maybe a dumb question and I apologize in advance. but when I was draining the tranny I had gear oil come out, I thought this car takes ATF fluid. I've been looking in the forums but couldn't find anything. now keep in mind someone has replaced this clutch before and did a crappy job putting back together. so maybe this clown put differential oil instead of ATF.
 
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ATF is the root of all evil when it comes to an MTX-75

The stuff that appears to be gear oil to you is probably the right stuff, ford honey oil.

You should be using Ford Honey Oil, Royal Purple Sychromesh, or a couple other things that I cant remember off the top of my head.

promise me that you wont put ATF in it.
 
I was refering to the whole swap.

with some of the questions being asked in here, I just dont see it working out well. I did a ton of research, and one little wiring mistake killed it.

I'm working on 3.0 number 2 now.

just words of caution man...
 
yea I've noticed you got a pretty pretty good scolding about your motor. that sucks man. I gotta be extra careful here cause the motors they sell here in california are not that cheap. and I can't do a full 3L. the state wouldn't allow it. Good luck with your next engine.
 
hey do any of you guys remember what size bolts you used on the upper motor mount? I have the smaller holes in my block.
 
later SVT and cougar mounts have the correct bolts. I had to clean the threads out on the block with a tap though as they were corroded you may have the right size bolts and just need to clean the thread out.


Good luck a pain to clean out.

here is my bit of advice on this swap.

change as little as possible keep it as much ford as possible the less you change around the less to screw up.

I kept my taurus oil pan and I kept the taurus cams I did however do a port match which indeed makes it look stock. keep up the good work.
 
+1 with purdy. keep the taurus pan, it's better anyways. ya dont need those two bolts on the bottom.

keep the cams, if you get an 04+ the cams/heads are better anyways. svt cams are really tuned for split port anyways.

if I were you, I'd actually drop about a grand on joeys paypal and call it a day. I'm a pretty big fan of NPG at this point, they've been really helpfull and their stuff is plug&play.

things I'd buy:

Xcal3 with base tune, around 450 (imrc deleted, for lim mod)

adapter LIM: 350 I think?

Fuel rail adaptor: 100

engine done, no fabbing, just bolt stuff together

[edit] oh and on those bolts for the upper mount, I had one that was a mofo too. nothing bolts in those holes on the taurus, so yeah, their pretty corroded, I just used a LOT of grease and kept tightening, pulling out, and repeating till I got it in. just dont stip the thing out.
 
I found out the bolts from the timing chain cover were the right threading, (M8 1.25) I took the stock upper bolts and cruised over the Napa and the guy was able to match the threading and length i needed, cost me about 8 bucks. I'm almost done putting this bad boy together.
One problem that had me confused was when I was installing the clutch. using the alignment tool was kinda worthless. there was still some movement in with the clutch disc when I put the tool through. I wasn't sure if I got it aligned properly. but somehow we managed to get the tranny to bolt on, I guess it aligned itself. also I had to take out the dowel and move it over one spot, no biggie.
well i've the 02 motor so I don't have the 04-05 cams you guys seem to be in love with. I guess i'll suffer with the 02 cams. and Purdy like you said "keep it as much Ford as possible".
kaos, I appreciate your input, I hope your next swap goes in smooth man.
 
GT2SVT said:
I found out the bolts from the timing chain cover were the right threading, (M8 1.25) I took the stock upper bolts and cruised over the Napa and the guy was able to match the threading and length i needed, cost me about 8 bucks. I'm almost done putting this bad boy together.
One problem that had me confused was when I was installing the clutch. using the alignment tool was kinda worthless. there was still some movement in with the clutch disc when I put the tool through. I wasn't sure if I got it aligned properly. but somehow we managed to get the tranny to bolt on, I guess it aligned itself. also I had to take out the dowel and move it over one spot, no biggie.
well i've the 02 motor so I don't have the 04-05 cams you guys seem to be in love with. I guess i'll suffer with the 02 cams. and Purdy like you said "keep it as much Ford as possible".
kaos, I appreciate your input, I hope your next swap goes in smooth man.
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you did flip the timing wheel right? or turn really, almost 180 degrees, teeth out. theres a ton of pics on the boards. it has a second key way for 2.5

turns out my new engine will be an 04 with 40k now... w00t
 
My D-tour started! I don't have the exhaust or the wheels on. but the SOB started! we'll see how it runs when its all put together. but i have a question, I've already ruled out getting headers cause its not smog legal. but should i get an y pipe? is it worth it with the stock manifolds?
 
Sweet man, congrats on the start.
I have an optimised y pipe, but I can't tell you whether it made a difference because it was already on there when I bought the car. I've heard that the modified stock is better than the msds if you can do it yourself or get hold of one.
 
I'll have to look into that. but if requires me welding anything forget it, I can't weld. I think that will be my first performance upgrade, I just hope its worth the money.
 
you'll need a plasma cutter and a gas kit for your welder to get one to come out well, theres a cover over the y-pipe that actually serves a purpose (retaining heat) that will have to be removed so you can weld the seam, all in all, I've determined that the gains arent worth the trouble.
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
you'll need a plasma cutter and a gas kit for your welder to get one to come out well, theres a cover over the y-pipe that actually serves a purpose (retaining heat) that will have to be removed so you can weld the seam, all in all, I've determined that the gains arent worth the trouble.
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agreed.. not worth it. maybe i'll just buy one. well i started it up again and it ilde and revved just fine but now I have a problem. the battery light is on. the battery itself was around 11.8 volts. started the car and it dropped to around 10.0v. I'm really hoping its a bat battery. the alternator is brand new. what do you guys think it may be? I checked the grounds and everything seems grounded.
 
hey when you guys reinstalled your alternator on your motors did you all install that black L shaped bracket on the back of it? I left mine out for easier removal down the road.
 
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