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engine mount adjustment after filled R/R?

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flyguyeddy

CEG'er
Joined
Jul 13, 2007
Messages
61
when i took my roll restrictor out to fill it with 60a poly, i noticed that it was pretty saggy and the inner tube piece was to the bottom of the R/R.

i had to jack teh engine up to get it to go back in, and now it seems i have some decent noise inside the car. is this normal? i can deal with it but i had a friend at work drive the car forward and backwards and it seems as the engine is pivoting on that mount.

can you raise the engine by jacking it up and loosening the upper transmission mount and sliding it further towards the engine? seems that would raise the engine up and alleviate this situation.
 
Vibration in the car is normal after going to a firmer motor mount. Its also normal for the engine to rock on that mount since thats what its there for.
 
i would unbolt the forward anf rear roll resistors then rebolt them to sort've center the assembly.

also, fill that shiz yo! 94 front and rear...
 
i only did the rear. if i knew how to center the front one so i can fill it i would
 
Fill a small box with sand, take the cleaned up mount and push it into the sand so it sits still and you can pour or squeeze the fill into it.
 
oh ok i see.

does the front mount sag and distort enough to be concerned with it being in teh wrong place?
 
flyguyeddy said:
oh ok i see.

does the front mount sag and distort enough to be concerned with it being in teh wrong place?
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Yes. If either of your roll restrictors are sagging severely, they are worn out, and more importantly, may indicate that your right and left engine and trans mounts are also failing. You should look at those, since they are the vertical load supporting mounts.

Dyoel182 said:
Vibration in the car is normal after going to a firmer motor mount. Its also normal for the engine to rock on that mount since thats what its there for.
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Yikes! I agree with your first sentence, but no, the rear roll restrictor is actually there for the opposite reason, to limit the rotation of the powertrain on its torque roll axis. Ideally, the weight-supporting mounts (left and right in this case) are placed in this axis to prevent preloading the roll restrictors. The powertrain should actually "rock" on those, unless they have degraded to the point that the roll restrictors are supporting significant vertical static load, which may be the case.
 
rollinstylee said:
Yikes! I agree with your first sentence, but no, the rear roll restrictor is actually there for the opposite reason, to limit the rotation of the powertrain on its torque roll axis. Ideally, the weight-supporting mounts (left and right in this case) are placed in this axis to prevent preloading the roll restrictors. The powertrain should actually "rock" on those, unless they have degraded to the point that the roll restrictors are supporting significant vertical static load, which may be the case.
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You did a much better job of explaining it than I did. What I meant to is that its normal for the engine to rock back on that mount, not that it uses the mount as a rocking point like the top mounts.
 
Gotcha. ;) Just didn't want the OP to be misled into thinking that was an OK pivot point for the engine, especially if there's enough movement to visually identify it.
 
its all good i didnt think it was a good place for the engine to pivot. it SHOULD (correct me if im wrong) pivot on the right and left mounts so that it rocks as if its hinged right in the middle of the engine.

so im guessing my vertical load engine mounts are probably toast. is it easy to get them aftermarket or do i need to make some?
 
...I don't know how you'd make your own hydromount, and I don't think I'd want to find out. ;) They should still be available through a dealer or possibly rockauto. Trans mount--non-liquid one--is probably cheaper (speculation), and prone to wearing out/breaking bolts, so you might want to start with that one and see if it fixes your problem before throwing more money into it than necessary.

*EDIT* Energy Suspension actually makes motor mounts for the Contour. I don't know if they include the brackets and everything, but another source to look into. However, they are most likely considerably stiffer than stock and will increase NVH.
 
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