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Cold Air Box

Correct in theory at least. That hesitation or bog wouldnt show up on a dyno though.
I'm not sure if he cares too much about that...

He did this to have better throttle response and maybe a few more HP, not to look a bit better on a dyno:shrug:

I have experienced exactly what he's talking about, and I must say, this is a COOL way of fixing the problem. Nice work:cool:
 
He did this to have better throttle response and maybe a few more HP, not to look a bit better on a dyno:shrug:

Look better on a dyno? I was talking about hesitation showing up on a dyno plot, which it wouldnt because it doesnt exist, although an improvement in throttle response or actual hp certainly would.
 
Look better on a dyno? I was talking about hesitation showing up on a dyno plot, which it wouldnt because it doesnt exist, although an improvement in throttle response or actual hp certainly would.
I got a bit cynical, there. I was saying that I think he did this to improve driveability; not his dyno plot.

To the OP... Does your car have better throttle response from 0 throttle to WOT?
 
It would only improve driveability if the stock box and paper filter were restrictive for the engine, which they shouldnt be. Any perceived gain would just be a case of the butt dyno playing tricks.
 
It would only improve driveability if the stock box and paper filter were restrictive for the engine, which they shouldnt be. Any perceived gain would just be a case of the butt dyno playing tricks.

I'll take a conical filter over a flat one any day of the week.

When my ford ranger was at the testing cventer for PRO-M racing Mass Air Flow meters warehouse in michigan. I saw all the testings done using hundreds of filter types with different combinations.

soo

Cfm flow is much higher on a conical filter compared to a flat filter. I saw it in person and was shown not just told :)
 
Looks good... only thing I would be worried about is pulling in water from rain/snow from the cowl area...

Where abouts do you live in MN? I'd like to see this first hand if I could... shoot me a PM.
 
yah mike. you could put a filter element under the cowl area. i have some nice filter elements that are just flat pieces that come on snowmobiles. just a sheet of that stuff cut to size slide it under the cowl where the hole is and put the plastic back on. wouldnt even see it.
 
Water is no problem. At the opening where the Intake hose connects to the firewall You have two things going on. !.) The opening is 1 1/4" above the floor of the cowl area. The cowl area has a drainage system in-place for draining water off that comes in from the windshield. 2.) On the inside of the cutout on the firewall I built a intake "CONE" with a flaired end with a screen in it. The last concideration is if you look at the picture you will note that the intake hose travels uphill from the firewall, over the strut tower and then back down to the airbox. IF any water did enter the intake hose it would just run back to the lowest point which is out the intake cone in the cowl area. IF the water did make it over the hump it would run to the bottom of the airbox and out the drain hole.
 
i just noticed that in your pic on the first post you have a eBay style MAF adapter. they are actually smaller then the MAF opening. so its a bottle neck. just thought i point that out. but i am guessing you already know that.
 
Man you guys are observant! You are correct. I have a plastic one that is correctly matched. What I have been playing with is examining which maf material (metal vs plastic) cools faster and works best with the function of the ci-airbox. I have not been surprised that the metal maf runs cooler than the plastic. Heck I can polish the metal to look cool to boot too. The next thing to play with is filter design and size.
 
High density gray insulating foam. I bought a square 3"x3"x48" piece and using a slit wheel on my table saw I quartered it. then lowered the slit wheel and run a slit up the middle. Then I glued the two ends together. The foam then sits ontop of a ridge on the airbox. [|]
 
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