• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

MSDS Headers Install Questions

C

CoolBlackSE99

CEG'er
Joined
Jun 11, 2004
Messages
134
Location
Hooversville, PA
I was planning on installing my new MSDS headers this weekend and I read and re-read Tourige's FAQ and I understand that but I still have a few questions.

1. What should I use, if anything, to seal the new gaskets?

2. My headers didn't come with new manifold studs. Is it ok to reuse the old ones?

3. I got them coated from Nautilus Performance, Is it ok to paint over the coating with high-heat paint?

4. They will bolt up to the stock Y-pipe right?

Thanks in advance
 
1. Adequate torque
2. Yes
3. Why would you? Paint that you apply will flake off more quickly than their coating.
4. Yes
 
rollinstylee said:
1. Adequate torque
2. Yes
3. Why would you? Paint that you apply will flake off more quickly than their coating.
4. Yes
Click to expand...

Thanks for the answers, I was just wondering about painting them to kind of protect the coating from winter salt so maybe it would last longer... I wasn't sure how it would stand up to penndot's massive amounts of road salt
 
As mentioned above, you can reuse the old studs and bolts but I prefere to use these instead. Be sure to apply antiseize to the threads of whichever you choose.

91292A149L.GIF
 
For me and exhaust work studs > bolts. Not only is it easier to get a gasket/heatshield on and aligned its also easier to hang manifolds (especially with a turbo dangling off the end).
 
Thank you all for your insights. So paint is a no-no then. And I think I will try to re-use the old studs for the same reason as Dyoel182 posted. Hopefully PB Blaster really is my friend...

Thanks again guys
 
I finished installing my headers today, it took me just under two days to do plus I installed a new passenger's side sway bar end link. I'm pretty pleased with the performance increase, but I definitely need to invest in some mufflers for out back since my car now sounds like a bumblebee from Chernobyl with just a resonator. I also got 3 CEL codes on my first romp around the block (this is what the scan tool said at Advance Auto):
P0171 - System too lean, Bank 1
P0133 - Bank 1 Sensor 1, slow switching
P1151 - Manufacturer's Air/Fuel Metering System

I'm going to go ahead and assume that the P0171 is being caused by the P0133, I'll check tomorrow to make sure the plug for the rear upper O2 sensor is in there tight and if it is I guess I banged up the O2 sensor taking the manifold out and I'll have to get a new one. The P1151 description made no sense to me so I searched and found this:
Lack of HO2521 Switches, System Lean [See P2197].
Click to expand...
I checked my MIL eliminator installations twice before I taped them up and put them back in, so I'm positive those are in right. Is it possible that the other 2 codes (my rear upper O2 sensor) are causing this one?

Thanks in advance
 
Yes it can very well be. My car threw the lean condition codes for a couple weeks. Disconnet the battery and run your car for about a week. If the codes still reamian then a new upper bank 1 o2 will be needed!!!

What exhaust components are you running now?
 
Harrry said:
Yes it can very well be. My car threw the lean condition codes for a couple weeks. Disconnet the battery and run your car for about a week. If the codes still reamian then a new upper bank 1 o2 will be needed!!!

What exhaust components are you running now?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice, I'll try that tomorrow, but does it matter that I had the battery disconnected the entire time that I was installing headers? I checked the plug and it's definitely connected. And also, I'm running a 2 1/4" cat-back with an 18" Magnaflow resonator and no mufflers, stock Y-pipe and cat, and, of course, new MSDS headers. I was thinking about getting a pair of Magnaflow 11365 mufflers and 35125 tips from Summit to quiet it back down.
 
ditch the stock ypipe. your not seeing the full potential of the headers w/the stock ypipe. prob. costing yourself a solid 7whp
 
95pgt-t said:
ditch the stock ypipe. your not seeing the full potential of the headers w/the stock ypipe. prob. costing yourself a solid 7whp
Click to expand...
I know, I wish I could have afforded to do it all at once, but I couldn't. I'll definitely be saving for one though, but I need some mufflers and an O2 sensor first...
 
CoolBlackSE99 said:
I know, I wish I could have afforded to do it all at once, but I couldn't. I'll definitely be saving for one though, but I need some mufflers and an O2 sensor first...
Click to expand...
The Y-pipe gives the best gains of almost any mod. (i.e. removing the stock smashed bends!) Absolutely any mod when you have a well tuned chip that increases low end timing!!!

I would not have installed headers without doing the Y-pipe first personally. You will see minimal gains from headers with the stock Y-pipe. For that matter even a cat-back gains half of what it would when coupled with the stock Y-pipe. That's how bad the stock Y is!!!
 
DemonSVT said:
The Y-pipe gives the best gains of almost any mod. (i.e. removing the stock smashed bends!) Absolutely any mod when you have a well tuned chip that increases low end timing!!!

I would not have installed headers without doing the Y-pipe first personally. You will see minimal gains from headers with the stock Y-pipe. For that matter even a cat-back gains half of what it would when coupled with the stock Y-pipe. That's how bad the stock Y is!!!
Click to expand...

I understand where you're coming from, but I look at it this way: at least the harder part is done and over with. The bolts are all brand new and anti-seized so when I can afford a Y-pipe, I could install it in less than a couple of hours as opposed to the all-weekend header project. Please don't take it the wrong way, I do respect your opinion. And also, now that I think about it, I heard you can get pretty good money scrapping cats and I just happen to have 2 lying around now... :idea:
 
I've got a set i've had up for sale with no luck so I think mine may be getting scrapped as well... I'll never use them again...
 
CoolBlackSE99 said:
I understand where you're coming from, but I look at it this way: at least the harder part is done and over with. The bolts are all brand new and anti-seized so when I can afford a Y-pipe, I could install it in less than a couple of hours as opposed to the all-weekend header project. Please don't take it the wrong way, I do respect your opinion. And also, now that I think about it, I heard you can get pretty good money scrapping cats and I just happen to have 2 lying around now... :idea:
Click to expand...

I have a BAT y-pipe for sale if interested...and I live in PA.
 
CoolBlackSE99 said:
I heard you can get pretty good money scrapping cats and I just happen to have 2 lying around now...
Click to expand...

A regular full size cat is only worth a few dollars if you can find someone to buy it so I dont think two small pre-cats would be worth that much.
 
Actually, a scrap yard in NY is giving around $100 a piece for the main cat, which is why my cousin has had her converter stolen twice already:nonono:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top