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For all u 3.0L guys

My car runs very strong without a tune, secondaries, or a hooked up IMRC on a stock SVT PCM tune. I have lots of low end TQ and power to around the upper 5K area - only hit redline when I'm not paying attention or if want to hear that Duratec scream. I am running a full 04' Taurus 3L.

Granted, my car is untuned and I'm missing a TON of power before 3K, I still have an absoulte blast and easily DD with a Spec 3+ & 8lb Fidanza. On our dyno runs the tuned cars picked up ~100hp and 55tq before 3K.
 
well from what i'm hearing from one of the Fusion guys is that the 3.0 in the fusion is different than the taurus's and so on.
 
TX00SVT said:
AJ is a retard. No power below 4000? My hybrid below 4000 will eat your 2.5 for lunch. If I want to drive around nicely in town, I can shift at 2k, no problem and not have to downshift all the time when I want to speed up a little. I have both stock and hybrid cars, and there is no comparison. I have plenty of power all over. SVT SNOB's straight 3L with SVT cams is awesome too.

Oh, btw the compression ratio is 11.25:1
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yeah, and snob regularly says "I wish I had 04 cams, my last SVT had straight 3L, car was WAY faster"

and you are picking apart what I am saying, obviously there is power with the 3L hybrids, but a straight 3L provides much more low end power, you get similar power raitings with either 3L hybrid build, or straight 3L, however, its the way the motor actually puts the power down, besides... Why spend the extra time and money making the 2.5L heads fit on a 3L motor, when you can get a 3L, do the block modifications and throw it in the car as is and get the same amount of power as the hybrid motor, with a lower compression ratio so boost is easier to attain.

Just doesnt make sense to me, maybe someone can explain it to me better then I understand, im not saying hybrid motors are junk by any means, they require a lot of time and effort to put together properly, and make respectable numbers, but for a daily driver a straight 3L offers a much more useable power band on a daily driving basis.
 
AliasJerk said:
yeah, and snob regularly says "I wish I had 04 cams, my last SVT had straight 3L, car was WAY faster"

and you are picking apart what I am saying, obviously there is power with the 3L hybrids, but a straight 3L provides much more low end power, you get similar power raitings with either 3L hybrid build, or straight 3L, however, its the way the motor actually puts the power down, besides... Why spend the extra time and money making the 2.5L heads fit on a 3L motor, when you can get a 3L, do the block modifications and throw it in the car as is and get the same amount of power as the hybrid motor, with a lower compression ratio so boost is easier to attain.

Just doesnt make sense to me, maybe someone can explain it to me better then I understand, im not saying hybrid motors are junk by any means, they require a lot of time and effort to put together properly, and make respectable numbers, but for a daily driver a straight 3L offers a much more useable power band on a daily driving basis.
Click to expand...

u're right. and thats why u hardly hear of anyone doing them again. remember when last u actually saw someone post a hybrid build?:)
 
SVT cams have longer duration, more overlap, better ramps rates and valve timing. A very good choice if you have them available! (I.E. more HP and a better TQ curve)

2.5L heads SUCK!!! They let you keep the oil drainback problem! A trade off is you get a bump in compression of 1. (11.2 verses 10 chambers UNTOUCHED!) Screw that! You could not pay me to keep the POS draining 2.5L heads. That is an ever ticking time bomb waiting to strike and rpm levels ascerbate the danger!

If you want higher CR then bore then cylinders to 90mm (3L +1mm) and get your 11 to 1. Hypereutectic pistons & good rings are cheap (~$300 IIRC) compared to the possibility of catastrophic failure.
 
i'll be putting my full 04 3l on the dyno soon enough and I'll post the results.....
I love the way this car pulls. high rpms it may be lacking a little but I think some additional tuning will help that alot
 
[/quote]If you want higher CR then bore then cylinders to 90mm (3L +1mm) and get your 11 to 1. Hypereutectic pistons & good rings are cheap (~$300 IIRC) compared to the possibility of catastrophic failure.[/quote]

how much higher would you need to go before you need to use racing fuel? with a 3L bored to get 11:1 with aftermarket pistons, rings, camshaft, etc and a turbo wat kind of hp could you push?
 
If you want higher CR then bore then cylinders to 90mm (3L +1mm) and get your 11 to 1. Hypereutectic pistons & good rings are cheap (~$300 IIRC) compared to the possibility of catastrophic failure.[/quote]

how much higher would you need to go before you need to use racing fuel? with a 3L bored to get 11:1 with aftermarket pistons, rings, camshaft, etc and a turbo wat kind of hp could you push?[/QUOTE]

very very good power for like 2minutes before POP! its too high of a cr for FI.
 
A reason for keeping the SVT upper intake is to make it easier to pass a smog test in areas that have very strict compliance rules. It would not get failed on the visual test for having an obvious engine swap.
 
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