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For all u 3.0L guys

thats for top end power my friend. actually, all around power. good power for NA engines. what u'll have is a hybrid with high compression. forgot what it is tho. for some reason its not done anymore:shrug:. just thot about that...:ponder:

what is the point of keeping the SVT heads and cams in the 3.0???

Its true, you get a lot of top end power due to the; SVT cams, and higher compression. I have driven a couple of 3L hybrids, if you plan to run your SVT contour like a honda and never go below 4 grand, these things tare ass.

its bad mojo.

yes, it is... it is rumored (more like common knowledge) that the 2.5L heads (SVT or not) have oil drain back issues. Which means when your motor is in the high revs, there is PLENTY of oil in the heads/cam region, but the oil doesnt drain back into the oil pan quickly enough to keep the crankshaft properly lubricated on long sloping right hand turns (oil sloshes around in the pan) So basically your rod bearings suffer oil starvation issues just like the standard 2.5L motor did, basically you are building a 3L motor will the same 2.5L problem. However, most CEGers combat this issue by adding an extra quart of oil to the motor between oil changes (total of 6.5 quarts) which helps quite a bit.

in the past it was believed that the 2.5L heads and cams will create more power then the 3.0L heads; this theory has been proven incorrect as a lot of people are building Straight 3L swaps using 04 3L motors with 04 cams, and 04 3L heads, and intake manifolds and getting the same if not more power gains then the 2.5L hybrid motors, with no 2.5L drawbacks (like the so called "oil drainback" issue), with a proper tune (WARNING AT THIS POINT I AM STATING OPINION) the 3L motors STRAIGHT (SVT nothing just 3L parts) are better motors for any kind of build, if you want to go N/A the 3L cams offer more power early on in the power band, basically this means, instead of having to redline the motor to have any fun, you can drive the car and shift it at 5 grand all day and get all kinds of power, IMO this is better for a daily driver.... who needs to redline their car daily on the way to work? Or when they are getting groceries? Plus, like I said, Joey's dyno results showed that the 04 3L with stock everything and the Mazda6 UIM, put down more power then many of the other traditional 3L builds.



Someone is going to chime in and say "AJ is a retard" but oh well...
 
I believe the ports, as well as the intake, on the CSVT engine are Extrude Honed, which adds significant low-end torque.
c
 
yes, it is... it is rumored (more like common knowledge) that the 2.5L heads (SVT or not) have oil drain back issues. Which means when your motor is in the high revs, there is PLENTY of oil in the heads/cam region, but the oil doesnt drain back into the oil pan quickly enough to keep the crankshaft properly lubricated on long sloping right hand turns (oil sloshes around in the pan) So basically your rod bearings suffer oil starvation issues just like the standard 2.5L motor did, basically you are building a 3L motor will the same 2.5L problem. However, most CEGers combat this issue by adding an extra quart of oil to the motor between oil changes (total of 6.5 quarts) which helps quite a bit.

I'd say common rumor more than common knowledge. If the SVT engineers couldnt get the motor to starve itself I dont think it qualifies as a fact you could know.
 
Its true, you get a lot of top end power due to the; SVT cams, and higher compression. I have driven a couple of 3L hybrids, if you plan to run your SVT contour like a honda and never go below 4 grand, these things tare ass.



yes, it is... it is rumored (more like common knowledge) that the 2.5L heads (SVT or not) have oil drain back issues. Which means when your motor is in the high revs, there is PLENTY of oil in the heads/cam region, but the oil doesnt drain back into the oil pan quickly enough to keep the crankshaft properly lubricated on long sloping right hand turns (oil sloshes around in the pan) So basically your rod bearings suffer oil starvation issues just like the standard 2.5L motor did, basically you are building a 3L motor will the same 2.5L problem. However, most CEGers combat this issue by adding an extra quart of oil to the motor between oil changes (total of 6.5 quarts) which helps quite a bit.

in the past it was believed that the 2.5L heads and cams will create more power then the 3.0L heads; this theory has been proven incorrect as a lot of people are building Straight 3L swaps using 04 3L motors with 04 cams, and 04 3L heads, and intake manifolds and getting the same if not more power gains then the 2.5L hybrid motors, with no 2.5L drawbacks (like the so called "oil drainback" issue), with a proper tune (WARNING AT THIS POINT I AM STATING OPINION) the 3L motors STRAIGHT (SVT nothing just 3L parts) are better motors for any kind of build, if you want to go N/A the 3L cams offer more power early on in the power band, basically this means, instead of having to redline the motor to have any fun, you can drive the car and shift it at 5 grand all day and get all kinds of power, IMO this is better for a daily driver.... who needs to redline their car daily on the way to work? Or when they are getting groceries? Plus, like I said, Joey's dyno results showed that the 04 3L with stock everything and the Mazda6 UIM, put down more power then many of the other traditional 3L builds.



Someone is going to chime in and say "AJ is a retard" but oh well...

AJ is a retard. No power below 4000? My hybrid below 4000 will eat your 2.5 for lunch. If I want to drive around nicely in town, I can shift at 2k, no problem and not have to downshift all the time when I want to speed up a little. I have both stock and hybrid cars, and there is no comparison. I have plenty of power all over. SVT SNOB's straight 3L with SVT cams is awesome too.

Oh, btw the compression ratio is 11.25:1
 
I'm glad you put the disclaimer in there, I haven't seen any oval port 3Ls that actually put down a significant amount whp/wtq sooner than one with SVT manifolds so I'm not sure why everyone agrees to that "mid range power" theory.

I'd say in an SVT car when you already have the SVT manifolds use em, otherwise 04+ straight 3L.
 
so would a 2.5 head with svt cams be an upgrade for a 3.0 Fusion with vvt? someone is telling me it isnt worth it. Wat kinda power gain do u get with the 2.5 head? the 3.0 is pushing 221 stock hp if i recall
 
I'm glad you put the disclaimer in there, I haven't seen any oval port 3Ls that actually put down a significant amount whp/wtq sooner than one with SVT manifolds so I'm not sure why everyone agrees to that "mid range power" theory.

I'd say in an SVT car when you already have the SVT manifolds use em, otherwise 04+ straight 3L.

Midrange is alot better for on the highway, having had both a full 04 3L and 3L with SVT cams, I would toss my SVT Cammed 3L in a heartbeat. The full 3L is alot more fun to drive midrange is perfect IMO on the highway and around town. My 3L Oval Port with SVT cams put down 189hp and 195tq at the wheels between 2000rpm and 4900rpm, the other 27.70whp and 3.8wtq came between 4,900rpm and redline to give me 216.70whp and 198.38wtq. I will put money on the fact that a nicely tuned 04 full 3L will destroy that tq number. Once I get my A/F up to 13>5 from 11>5 I will see if I can get someone with a full 3L to dyno against my 3L. Hell I will see if I can get my old 04 full 3L on the dyno as well.

Aaron
 
Midrange is alot better for on the highway, having had both a full 04 3L and 3L with SVT cams, I would toss my SVT Cammed 3L in a heartbeat. The full 3L is alot more fun to drive midrange is perfect IMO on the highway and around town. My 3L Oval Port with SVT cams put down 189hp and 195tq at the wheels between 2000rpm and 4900rpm, the other 27.70whp and 3.8wtq came between 4,900rpm and redline to give me 216.70whp and 198.38wtq. I will put money on the fact that a nicely tuned 04 full 3L will destroy that tq number. Once I get my A/F up to 13>5 from 11>5 I will see if I can get someone with a full 3L to dyno against my 3L. Hell I will see if I can get my old 04 full 3L on the dyno as well.

Aaron
I'm looking at a dyno sheet of my car from 2004 and before it was tuned, this hybrid made 219.4 ft-lbs at the wheels. I need to dyno it again. :laugh:
 
Probably not, but it does now! If that thing hasn't fallen off in the 3 weeks that it's been on there, then it is there to stay. Makes jacking the car up much easier. :cool:
 
Midrange is alot better for on the highway, having had both a full 04 3L and 3L with SVT cams, I would toss my SVT Cammed 3L in a heartbeat. The full 3L is alot more fun to drive midrange is perfect IMO on the highway and around town. My 3L Oval Port with SVT cams put down 189hp and 195tq at the wheels between 2000rpm and 4900rpm, the other 27.70whp and 3.8wtq came between 4,900rpm and redline to give me 216.70whp and 198.38wtq. I will put money on the fact that a nicely tuned 04 full 3L will destroy that tq number. Once I get my A/F up to 13>5 from 11>5 I will see if I can get someone with a full 3L to dyno against my 3L. Hell I will see if I can get my old 04 full 3L on the dyno as well.

When you say toss you mean toss it aside in favor of the full 3L motor? And which PCM is/was being used on either?
 
Probably not, but it does now! If that thing hasn't fallen off in the 3 weeks that it's been on there, then it is there to stay. Makes jacking the car up much easier. :cool:

Yeah that's true it does make it easier, I cna't belevie that thing has stayed on the car for so long.

When you say toss you mean toss it aside in favor of the full 3L motor? And which PCM is/was being used on either?

Yes I mean toss this motor in favour of a full 3L. Both used PCM SFG2.

Aaron
 
Midrange is alot better for on the highway, having had both a full 04 3L and 3L with SVT cams, I would toss my SVT Cammed 3L in a heartbeat. The full 3L is alot more fun to drive midrange is perfect IMO on the highway and around town. My 3L Oval Port with SVT cams put down 189hp and 195tq at the wheels between 2000rpm and 4900rpm, the other 27.70whp and 3.8wtq came between 4,900rpm and redline to give me 216.70whp and 198.38wtq. I will put money on the fact that a nicely tuned 04 full 3L will destroy that tq number. Once I get my A/F up to 13>5 from 11>5 I will see if I can get someone with a full 3L to dyno against my 3L. Hell I will see if I can get my old 04 full 3L on the dyno as well.

Aaron

I understand the advantages of midrange. I'm saying I haven't seen any significant amount of midrange power difference between a straight 3L dyno and a SVT cammed/intake dyno, to make me think those cams are so much better for midrange. Actually I would like to see a straight 3L that has more torque at 3k rpms (which is where you'd be on the highway) then a similar 3L with functioning secondaries.
 
I have heard of more 3L with SVT cams & heads bite the dust early in their lives. Most because of the oil starvation to the crank. Another reason why I went with a ported 3L because the 3L longblock (block, heads, cams, etc.) is tried and true and seems to hold more power if you decide to go with any type of boost.
I think it is cool to say "hybrid" but not worth the worries, "ported 3L" sounds just as cool :D.
I would have gone striaght 3L but I just powder coated all my 2.5L parts and really wanted to keep the look of the 2.5.
 
I have heard of more 3L with SVT cams & heads bite the dust early in their lives. Most because of the oil starvation to the crank. Another reason why I went with a ported 3L because the 3L longblock (block, heads, cams, etc.) is tried and true and seems to hold more power if you decide to go with any type of boost.
I think it is cool to say "hybrid" but not worth the worries, "ported 3L" sounds just as cool :D.
I would have gone striaght 3L but I just powder coated all my 2.5L parts and really wanted to keep the look of the 2.5.
/Agree
 
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