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Hydraulic lash adjuster tick

C

CSVTnewbie

CEG'er
Joined
May 27, 2008
Messages
81
Location
Tucson,AZ
Last time I drove the car was last saturday (it's my girl's car), and everything seemed normal. Then on friday heard the ticking, only at idle-1500rpm though. I knew it had to be the lifters because a friend's car did this noise before also.

Anyway long story short: I changed the oil to CASTROL GTX 20w50, and the noise went away. I also added Seafoam to the oil then drove it around a little right before the oil change, but that probably didn't do anything. The rest of the seafoam went in the intake thru a vacuum line. It's pretty :censored::censored::censored::censored:ing quiet now. Next oil change I'm going with 10w30.
 
Well, according to Todras ;)

todras said:
Show me where. Never ever seen anyone say that. Care to explain why it's better? Low-viscosity oils flow better than high-viscosity ones—the lighter-weight fluid is easier to pump and therefore circulates faster through the engine's various galleries. Low-viscosity oils also maintain a lower oil pressure, but the oil pump delivers a greater volume through the galleries than it would with thicker (higher-viscosity) oils. Heavier oils also tend to operate at higher temperatures because the oil pump has to work harder to force the lubricant through the system. Oil does not compress readily, so the added pressure increases the temperature. In the end, high-viscosity oils maintain a higher oil pressure, but the pump delivers a smaller volume of oil. With the bearing issues this car has I'll take a higher volume of oil. CEG has always stated to run 5W. That means in summer and winter. This isn't some old Chevy 350.
Click to expand...
 
I run 10w30...

5w30 is fine for NA standard use, though you have to realize a lot of the newer oil ratings in vehicles (including the contour) play in to gas mileage a lot. There is a trade-off between mileage and lubricity :shrug:.

For what its worth, the guys that used to build capaldi's race motors suggested a 20w30 for turbo 3.0's.
 
or you can just ask this guy:

"I've long maintained that people on here are running oils that are too thin and that a thicker oil will provide better protection for intermittent starvation/pressure loss/high load situations.
I even posted in the 3L forums that Volvo clearly defined in print that any time your car sees ambient temps 86*F and greater that you need to run a 10w30 oil. If you live in a climate where you don't see that then 5w30 is good.
Now I always ran 20w50 and 10w40 is Arizona, summer and winter respectively. I never had an oil issue and I still have pictures of the stock ford bearings on my 3L after two years of both NA and turbo use. They looked great. I'll be sending a picture or two to Burrita to support my claims in the hopes that he will switch to at least a 10w30 or a 10w40 oil in the future. For further evidence, Ray can talk about the condition of the clevite bearings after sustained 1+ years of 350+ HP/TQ

:crazy:
For those of you that don't agree: Tough. I've got time/mileage/cicumstance/dyno graphs/photo-evidence on my side to defend my point. lol"

quoted from warmonger.

dynoel=pwned.
 
CSVTnewbie said:
:crazy:
For those of you that don't agree: Tough. I've got time/mileage/cicumstance/dyno graphs/photo-evidence on my side to defend my point. lol"

quoted from warmonger.

dynoel=pwned.
Click to expand...

Dont get too cocky new kid. You're the one running a thicker than spec oil and could be dealing with the mpg loss. 10 years ago thickness mattered when talking about heat and wear but oil chemistry has changed a lot since then and 0w oils hold up just as well as a 20w. Go read up on the subject on BobIsTheOilGuy and you'll see that you didnt pwn anyone. :)
 
I would not use Seafoam in the oil. Seafoam is a petroleum distillate. You are thinning the oil, and it will wash off any oil film. The only time I would use Seafoam is fo the top clean, pulled through the intake manifold, and or in the gas.

Higher vis will keep one from expierencing starvation. That's a new one! If anything the engine will starve quicker since flow is reduced! Especially when the duratec has a rep to not drain the oil back to the pan quick enough!
As far as using higher vis oils in a turbo, that makes sense since combustion temps are higher due to forced induction, and that most turbos are oil bathed, which means that the turbine bearing is being introduced to higher temps since the bearing is exposed to exhaust temps, making oil temps higher.

But these engines are not turboed!
 
Volkwagen recommends using Mobil 1 0w-40, or equivalent, in our New Beetle 1.8t engine. It's important to get that turbo oiled-up as quickly as possible after starting. I've been running 10w-30 in my SVT because it has fairly high miles (118K). It has affected the fuel efficiency somewhat.
I'm thinking of going back to 5w-30.
c
 
Just an FYI -
Volks basically has the same oil recommendation list as Porsche. The reason they recommend the Mobil 1 0w-40 is because Mobil 1 does not make a 5w-40 that has the European longlife certification. Mobil 1 0w- 40 is the only easy available Euro certified oil in the US under the Mobil1 brand. The list also includes other certified oils that are 5w-40.
The list used to include 15w-50 but since hey have changed over to liquid cooled the 40 weight oils that have the european certifiction are now recommended.

The W designation means winter, so unless you are really in an area that is more compatible with the 5W as opposed to the 10W, you will not gain a thing. 10w-30 should be fine.
 
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