New 3l break-in period question

[95Mike]

Hey guys. 2003 taurus 3l with 25k on it and new clevite rod bearings. I did the no-fuel/no spark priming the first time I fired it up. Then I let it run for 40 minutes in neutral at 2500-3000 rpms with a brick on the gas pedal. Then I ran a can of berryman's b-12 through the intake vacuum ports and changed the oil and filter. Now I have ~450 miles on it after that and it runs great. No leaking fluids or anything other than perfect.

My question: Is it safe to switch to Mobile 1 full synthetic yet? I've searched with mixed results. Some say to run more miles, some say to go to part synthetic at this point. Some say it should be fine. Any input? My piston rings were untouched (I did not take off the heads) so they should be of no concern. Same with main bearings.

 

[todras]

The non synth oils of today are really good so I would run it longer. Just my .02

 

[genesis14]

1.) Using a straight 30W oil, Drive normally but not a continuous high speeds for the first 500 miles. Occasional quick bursts of speed followed by quick deceleration during this period, is beneficial. AVOID LUGGING!!! TRIPS AND TOWING are not recommended until after 1000 miles.
NOTE:
Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are "BREAKING-IN" the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and other assemblies.


2.) IMPORTANT! AFTER 500 TO A MAXIMUM OF 1000 MILES OF SERVICE, change oil and filter. After the initial break-in, use nothing heavier than a 10W-30 dino oil (non synthetic).

3.) A heavy duty detergent oil is required. Use a good quality brand oil, Some Manufacturers require 5/30, others recommend 10/40 for 20 degrees Fahrenheit to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and use 20/50w for higher temperatures and heavy duty use.
NOTE:
In past years, it has been common practice to use non-detergent and straight weight oil during the "BREAK-IN" period because it was felt that the rings would seat quicker without the film strength additives. More recently, there has been a trend to high speed and high temperature engines, cam lobe and tappet loads also have increased to a point where it is important to use heavy duty oils which contain a EP (high pressure) additive right from the start. Rings will seat properly when moderate loads are applied as noted above in step one.

4.) Keep your engine in tune. Tune-up specifications should always be to the manufacturers recommended specifications.

5) The earliest you would switch to a syn oil is the 1500 mile point on the motor...the rings should be seated by then. Going longer before the switch will not hurt a thing. When you switch to a syn oil, go for a 0W or 5W-30 to maximize flow through the motor.

 

[Pope]

My piston rings were untouched (I did not take off the heads) so they should be of no concern. Same with main bearings.

1.) Using a straight 30W oil, Drive normally but not a continuous high speeds for the first 500 miles. Occasional quick bursts of speed followed by quick deceleration during this period, is beneficial. AVOID LUGGING!!! TRIPS AND TOWING are not recommended until after 1000 miles.
NOTE:
Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are "BREAKING-IN" the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and other assemblies.


2.) IMPORTANT! AFTER 500 TO A MAXIMUM OF 1000 MILES OF SERVICE, change oil and filter. After the initial break-in, use nothing heavier than a 10W-30 dino oil (non synthetic).

3.) A heavy duty detergent oil is required. Use a good quality brand oil, Some Manufacturers require 5/30, others recommend 10/40 for 20 degrees Fahrenheit to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and use 20/50w for higher temperatures and heavy duty use.
NOTE:
In past years, it has been common practice to use non-detergent and straight weight oil during the "BREAK-IN" period because it was felt that the rings would seat quicker without the film strength additives. More recently, there has been a trend to high speed and high temperature engines, cam lobe and tappet loads also have increased to a point where it is important to use heavy duty oils which contain a EP (high pressure) additive right from the start. Rings will seat properly when moderate loads are applied as noted above in step one.

4.) Keep your engine in tune. Tune-up specifications should always be to the manufacturers recommended specifications.

5) The earliest you would switch to a syn oil is the 1500 mile point on the motor...the rings should be seated by then. Going longer before the switch will not hurt a thing. When you switch to a syn oil, go for a 0W or 5W-30 to maximize flow through the motor.

^ ignore since your engine is not fresh.

If the motor was not honed/bored and rerung then you have absolutely no need for using the antiquated breaking procedure intended to seat rings and to seat flat tappet lifters; bearings do not require break in.

Run whatever oil you want at this point, though I would probably leave the traditional oil in for 3-5,000 miles, otherwise it was just a waste of money.

 

[biminiLX]

Pope, you're exactly right.
I was waiting for someone to see the motor has 25k!
Put whatever motor oil in it you like and drive it like you plan to normally.
-J

 

[Pudmunkie]

1.) Using a straight 30W oil, Drive normally but not a continuous high speeds for the first 500 miles. Occasional quick bursts of speed followed by quick deceleration during this period, is beneficial. AVOID LUGGING!!! TRIPS AND TOWING are not recommended until after 1000 miles.
NOTE:
Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are "BREAKING-IN" the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and other assemblies.


2.) IMPORTANT! AFTER 500 TO A MAXIMUM OF 1000 MILES OF SERVICE, change oil and filter. After the initial break-in, use nothing heavier than a 10W-30 dino oil (non synthetic).

3.) A heavy duty detergent oil is required. Use a good quality brand oil, Some Manufacturers require 5/30, others recommend 10/40 for 20 degrees Fahrenheit to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and use 20/50w for higher temperatures and heavy duty use.
NOTE:
In past years, it has been common practice to use non-detergent and straight weight oil during the "BREAK-IN" period because it was felt that the rings would seat quicker without the film strength additives. More recently, there has been a trend to high speed and high temperature engines, cam lobe and tappet loads also have increased to a point where it is important to use heavy duty oils which contain a EP (high pressure) additive right from the start. Rings will seat properly when moderate loads are applied as noted above in step one.

4.) Keep your engine in tune. Tune-up specifications should always be to the manufacturers recommended specifications.

5) The earliest you would switch to a syn oil is the 1500 mile point on the motor...the rings should be seated by then. Going longer before the switch will not hurt a thing. When you switch to a syn oil, go for a 0W or 5W-30 to maximize flow through the motor.

0w? on a duratec? You're smoking crack!

5w-30 is hardly enough.

 

[Harrry]

You're smoking crack!.

Nope, crack is what i used to do, when i use to crack jokes.

 

[todras]