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New rotors, now no brake pressure

C

CSVT1214

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Nov 1, 2003
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Plainville, CT
I replaced the rotors on my 00 SVT yesterday to get it ready for my stepbrother who is buying it.

Replaced the rotors all around because the car has been sitting so long and they were rusted to hell. The pads still had tons of life so I left them.

After everything was done and bolted up. I start up the car and the brake pedal went to the floor with no pressure at all. If the car sits idle, it builds a little pressure, but as soon as you rev it, the pedal can be pushed to the floor.

The brakes worked fine prior to the rotors being replaced. No leaks or problems at all.

What happened? :shrug:
 
you did drive the car right?

when you put new rotors on, you have to reset the calipers using a c-clamp to make the brake pads fit over the rotors (new rotors are generally less worn down than old ones. So the first time you drive it down the street, the brake pedal is goign to travel pretty far while the pads reseat themselves.

or you have air in your lines.
 
Drive the car? Sure, if my plan is to total it within the first 3 minutes. Like I said, there is no pressure. It won't hold itself in the driveway. You really think I would take it for a drive?

The calipers were moved in on all 4 corners to fit the new rotors.
 
sounds like the brakes just have to be bleed.

also check and make sure the vacuum line to the brake booster it connected and good.
 
The vacuum line is fine. That was one of the first things I checked. No leaks from any of the lines or calipers.

I guess I'll have to try and bleed it. What would cause the brakes hold pressure fine, and then need to be bled after just rotors?
 
Did you reassemble the calipers properly? Check how your spring clips are attached between the caliper and anchor bracket on both front calipers. If they are wrong, fix them. Remember, the springs are supposed to hold the caliper down to the anchor bracket, not push it away . . .

If they are assembled correctly,
Did you bleed the brakes?
If you didn't, then bleed them and make sure you do it properly.

If you did, did you let the master cylinder run dry while bleeding them?
If it ran dry, then you need to bleed the entire system very thouroughly.

My money is on the caliper springs on wrong though, but you really should bleed the brakes anyway if you didn't before.
 
Ok, lets see... Check list.

1. Is there fluid?
2. Were callipers removed?
3. Any stains/leaks? Do a full inspection of all lines, especially around the tank area. That's where they normally fail and leaks are not easy to spot as the lines are hidden.
4. How long the car was sitting? (Fluid collects moisture and becomes ineffective).
5. Any of the above? Bleed the system.
6. If bleeding the system does not help and there are no leaks your master cylinder failed. Replace and bleed again.
 
I think technically it shouldn't matter, but maybe pushing the caliper pistons in messed something up? I just did my pads all around and front rotors and I didn't have to bleed anything afterwards (waiting to install the ss lines first.) Just pumped the brakes when done and everything was fine.

Also, I drove around missing a caliper spring clip and my pedals firmed up like they should, although I just had poor braking, vibrations, and pulling to one side.
 
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CSVT1214 said:
Drive the car? Sure, if my plan is to total it within the first 3 minutes. Like I said, there is no pressure. It won't hold itself in the driveway. You really think I would take it for a drive?

The calipers were moved in on all 4 corners to fit the new rotors.
Click to expand...

jeez, whats with the attitude?

its not like I was saying "take it on the freeway up to 70 and slam on the brakes"

going down the street at 3 mph isnt going to get you into a horrific accident. plus you always have the e-brake to yank on.
 
Last edited:
Rara said:
Did you reassemble the calipers properly? Check how your spring clips are attached between the caliper and anchor bracket on both front calipers. If they are wrong, fix them. Remember, the springs are supposed to hold the caliper down to the anchor bracket, not push it away . . .
Click to expand...

Well, you hit the nail on the head. The spring clips were installed wrong.

I was doing it right until someone told me it was wrong. :blackeye: Time for me to go slap a Blackmon. :troutslap:

The pedal is back to normal again. Still feels a little soft compared to my 98 SVT, so I will probably bleed them anyways.

Thanks Rara
 
AliasJerk said:
jeez, whats with the attitude?

its not like I was saying "take it on the freeway up to 70 and slam on the brakes"

going down the street at 3 mph isnt going to get you into a horrific accident. plus you always have the e-brake to yank on.
Click to expand...

No attitude, just being sarcastic with ya. That's basically like me telling you, disconnect all the brake lines and take your car for a drive. The e-brake will be enough, right? :rolleyes:

If the car can't hold itself in the driveway rolling at .5 mph, really think it would stop at 3 mph?
 
CSVT1214 said:
Well, you hit the nail on the head. The spring clips were installed wrong.

I was doing it right until someone told me it was wrong. :blackeye: Time for me to go slap a Blackmon. :troutslap:

The pedal is back to normal again. Still feels a little soft compared to my 98 SVT, so I will probably bleed them anyways.

Thanks Rara
Click to expand...

you big goof! When I was messing with those without any guidance I'm pretty sure I just placed it into the guide holes. In retrospect, I can't believe I didn't realize that they would just fall right out.
 
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