Swirl/split port 3L long block swap? (already been searchin)

[KAOS_3.0]

In all my years of working on cars, I've never come across a PAS acronym. Humor me with it's meaning.


The 3L's are a better design & will flow better, as they are not mani-cats like the 2.5L's. You will need to do some exhaust work if you want to use the 3L's. If the 2.5L exhaust mani's will bolt up, (they DO have the same bolt pattern, but I'm not sure if the bolt holes are the same distance apart), you won't need any exhaust work.


The three 2.5L timing cover gaskets... and I would put in a new front crank seal.


If you use your 2.5L exhaust manifolds, then the 2.5L EGR stuff will bolt up without modification. Not positive if you use the 3.0L exhaust manifolds, but I'm pretty sure the EGR bung in the 3L exhaust is in a slightly different location than the 2.5L.


No. The wheel is the outer-most piece on the front of the crank when you have the front cover off.


No - the sensor is in the same place for both engines.

That's all I can really help with.

thanks man, that was pretty helpfull.

PAS is power assisted steering. it's a term terry uses, figure with him being an automotive r&d engineer he would know what he's talking about.

 

[Ray]

figure with him being an automotive r&d engineer he would know what he's talking about.

As long as you take that thought process with a grain of salt, you'll be fine.

an "r&d engineer" doesn't mean they aren't wrong... People make mistakes or are incorrect about things all the time. Not that THIS is incorrect, or anything, but still..

 

[KAOS_3.0]

As long as you take that thought process with a grain of salt, you'll be fine.

an "r&d engineer" doesn't mean they aren't wrong... People make mistakes or are incorrect about things all the time. Not that THIS is incorrect, or anything, but still..

well I take every one with a grain of salt, even myself.

but given the application here, I figure a ford engineer would be right more often than wrong. especially in the long run.


so with the spun bearing problem the split ports have, I'm leaning towards an 01, any thing I should know there?

looks like I'll have to jack leg a throttle body, and figure out something for the fuel rail.

on top of that I'm guessing I still need to use a 2.5 oil pan for it to fit, as well as my timing cover.

I'm going to be pulling the engine from a junk car at a yard, so the milage should be over 100K, and I'm refusing to rebuild it because if I was going to rebuild an engine, I would just fix what I have.

are there any warnings I wouldn't expect from a high milage 01 style 3.0?

 

[Beans]

are there any warnings I wouldn't expect from a high milage 01 style 3.0?

Nope. It's going to blow up soon.

 

[KAOS_3.0]

Nope. It's going to blow up soon.

hardy har ha

I know that, but I only have the money I have, so thats what I have to work with.

if I fixed my old 164K mile 2.5 that nearly siezed, guess what?

it would blow up soon too.

why not spend close to the same money and have a blown up 3L to repair after I save up the money for a rebuild?

 

[morbid]

How much are you going to pay for a '01 3.0L? I didn't really see much of a price between high and low mileage motors... as long as you ignore the crazy junk yards. 3L engines in AZ seem to be higher than than the eastern US prices... and I found a couple '04 3L's with around 20,000 miles for $550. :shrug:

 

[muntus]

hardy har ha

I know that, but I only have the money I have, so thats what I have to work with.

if I fixed my old 164K mile 2.5 that nearly siezed, guess what?

it would blow up soon too.

why not spend close to the same money and have a blown up 3L to repair after I save up the money for a rebuild?

Just get a used high mileage 2.5L and throw it in. If you don't have the money for little things that pop up for a 3L swap, you will find yourself unable to finish the job.

After you have your cheap 2.5L running, you can take the time you need to thoroughly figure out what direction you need to go for a 3L swap. I say this, because pretty much all the answers to the questions you ask can be found through searching. It takes time to search, so your time might be better spent putting your car on the road with a 2.5L rather that taking the time to figure out how to do a 3L. The best time to do a 3L swap is when you don't need to.

 

[KAOS_3.0]

Just get a used high mileage 2.5L and throw it in. If you don't have the money for little things that pop up for a 3L swap, you will find yourself unable to finish the job.

After you have your cheap 2.5L running, you can take the time you need to thoroughly figure out what direction you need to go for a 3L swap. I say this, because pretty much all the answers to the questions you ask can be found through searching. It takes time to search, so your time might be better spent putting your car on the road with a 2.5L rather that taking the time to figure out how to do a 3L. The best time to do a 3L swap is when you don't need to.

interesting, not the first time a person has told me "just fix what you have", but to me.... if I pull the engine and drop in another 2.5.... a 3.0 will never happen.

I have a well established pattern of upgrading anything that breaks.

my air filter got dirty... so I bought an SVT intake with a K&N

my throttle link broke... so I made a new one from aluminum (original is plastic)

I had to pull my exhaust to replace the trans with a low miles unit (60K).... so I welded up some 2.5 flow master exhaust

I had a bent steelie with a bald tire, so I bought enkie PK6 rims for all 4 corners with kumho ecsta tires.

my camber is positive.... so I bought Koni sprins since I know it needs to come apart. still need to get either bat or GR2 struts and LCA's with poly bushings.

I've basically done this with every car I've owned. I collect parts for it at a super low price and then when a part of the car comes apart, I upgrade it. with luck I'll have the parts already, but since I don't have a 3.0 laying around, I have to find one.

since I have to find one, I'm asking a billion questions before I go and buy an engine that isn't worth a shiz.

see? I just want to know what I'm figuring in when I'm looking for a "Big Lots" engine.

[edit]

forgot to mention... if I invest the time and money for a 3.0 swap now, I wont have a problem finding a cheap super low mile engine inside of my budget later, not like the "pink elephant" 2.5.