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coolant leaking from tank's cap

Good call with the cap. Given that it is actually boiling out of the cap itself, that is a logical place to start. If it isn't the cap, then you might want to take it somewhere where they can diagnose the leak (that we presume you have) using more accurate means (do they use dye in the coolant system like in the A/C system? I'm not sure...).
 
8000RPM said:
...tony2005 is usually very helpful in these things but i dont see him saying anything about that so far...
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Click to expand...
The boy has been busy. :laugh: Been studying for many exams (professional development) recently. Will be studying (and taking more in the next few months).

1) Test for broken water pump. Warm up the car. Turn heater to max heat. If warm air comes out, you have a broken water pump. If hot air comes out, your water pump is fine. Have you checked if the thermostat is bad? Should not take more than a few minutes to do that. With a trusty Infra Red Thermometer (about $50 from Autozone or Advance), scan the temps from the hoses coming out from the thermostat. It should be about the same on both ends. If not, then thermostat is stuck on closed.

2) Do the el cheapo leaking headgasket test.
 
what was the el cheapo headgasket test? hot air comes out, so waterpump should be good. i dunno if you had the time to read all the posts, but actualy the fans are not kicking in. if a/c is on, car doesnt overheat. just changed the coolant tem sensors, and still the same. and why get a $50 termometer, i might as well change the thermostat. wont take more than 30min :)))

zorrex, i tried putting a different cap from a 99 csvt, but the damn thing is diffrenet. i had no idea that 98 vs 99 had different coolant tanks...but they look the same...

hah, good luck on your exams...
 
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I definitely think that the system just isn't pressurized. Logically, if the WP wasn't working, the coolant wouldn't boil until it got much hotter. I mean, it is entirely possible that I and others are mistaken. If you can do it yourself you might want to check the WP to make sure it's still good...
 
ok i did some more testing, and i will recap, and please tell me what you can come up after all this, because i am confused by now:

engine overheats, and coolant cap lets coolant out after coolant boils.
fans never kick in. with engine on a/c on, both fans are working non-stop (should be at low speed). changed the ECT and still the same, no change. engine on, ECT disconnected both fans work (should be at high speed) because that should be by the default. took out the two relays (black and green) and tested them with a 9v battery by connecting it to the 1 and 2 terminals (small ones) of the relays. both relays are klicking, thus they should be good. while relays are out, i jumped with a wire between the slots where the wide relay's terminals should be plugged (ignition on) both fans come at their respective speeds (low and high). coolant level is where it should be...now what the hell???

there is a 60AMP fuse (big yellow one) in the same power distribution box. can someone please tell me if the electricity (signal) from ECU goes through the relays and then to the fuse and the fans, or does it go through the fuse first and then through the relays???? how can i test if this 60AMP fuse is good?

what about the damn resitor at the fans housing? if fans come during these tests, is it safe to assume that the resistor is good or should i test it separately? the only other things i can come up with are either a huge buble which is righ at the ECT sensor, or no pressure so cooling point of antifreeze will be below the temp where fans should kick in (but the i should have a leak from somewhere, which i cant seem to find). bad coolant cap?...ohh crap...\


EDIT: Toddio, I will go to the local auto stores to see for scanning tools and will check to see what he ECT reads. i will post. i will also look for leaks in the system. i am also thinking of taking the ECT out and while connected to the plug with engine off, i can warm it up with a lighter to see if fans will come. if they do, then it is an air pocket. if not, it has to be a bad ECT... i guess
 
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anyone? i really need this fixed. i havent had my car for almost a week now...

what happens if the resistor is bad? what are the symptoms?
 
I honestly do not think it is a fan problem. What you REALLY should do is some data logging. Find out exactly what the temperature is and when it is boiling. Even if the fans aren't going, you shouldn't have coolant boiling at halfway on the gauge! So, find out exactly what the temperature is. Lack of pressure in coolant system > fans not working, as it stands right now.
 
ok guys. a friend of mine got me some relays from a junk yeard and another coolant tank cap. i changed the low and high speed relays and fans didnt come on. change them again with a third set but this time i put the new cap...and fans came on....
i dunno if it was the cap or the relays!?!? or maybe i didnt wait long enough the first time? i tested all relays with a 9v battery and they all click the same way, so maybe it was the cap? i have no clue. i should put my original relays in there and see if fans will come. if they do, then it was the cap...although i would be surprised if that cap can make a fan not to kick in...i will probably try that tomorrow if time allows. i will take the car to work tomorrow. 2 hours in traffic will be a good test to make sure it doesnt overheat. if it does..oh well, i will take a day off work..again.
 
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Also, if you've now effected a fix, does your temp gauge read accurately? If it does not, it might be a good time to replace the temp sender, which is around the corner from the ECT, under the throttle body, if only so you have an accurate gauge.
 
yeah guys. it is fixed. i drove it two days in traffic and it is all good.
LauraSVT - the temp gauge reads as normal. i am not sure what the problem was. i changed the two relays and the coolant tank cap (from junk yeard) and now it all works. i still have not had a chance to go backwards and see what it was. i am thinking to put my old cap back on with the current relays and see if fans will kick in. if not, then it was the cap... or i can leave the cap and put my old relays back and do the same test. i will try to do it today or this weekend and will let you know.

by-the-way, many thanks to toddio and everyone else that helped. your suggestions always count.
 
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