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Rawburt Rear Strut bar install suggestions

Q

qbcsvt

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Oct 12, 2006
Messages
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Location
Up North New Jersey
I just wanted to know what is the best type of install to go about Rawburt's RSTB...

1. Expanding it on the metal of the Strut towers

2. Expanding it on the covers/carpeting surrounding the strut tower

3. Welding it on the metal of the strut towers

Obviously, two arent permanent and one is:

I am thinking the Welding will make everything stronger and after all that my strut towers have been through I just want to keep everything re-enforced.

My strut tower is getting changed and the guy is willing to weld them together to make everything stronger....Not sure what I should do??? Suggestions???

- amyn
 
Do not weld it. There will be no benefits, just making it difficult to removal later.

Cut an X in the carpet and feed the bar through the holes. It will look almost stock to anyone that doesn't know any better.

Also, try to mount it as high up as you can on the tower to save trunk space.
 
Pics for reference

DCFC0153.jpg


DCFC0152.jpg


DCFC0149.jpg
 
I bought one of these used and was going to install as in the pics RawBurt posted.
One suggestion, I'm going to get a rubber grommet and cover the cut carpet, it will look cleaner.
One question, do these things like to loosen up over time? Would you suggest using a thread locker on the adjustment to prevent that? Any benefit of silicone or anything to make it adhere to the strut towers?
I'm just thinking out loud :shrug: , I'm waiting to do this when I weld in the subframe connectors and install the BAT sway bar---want to feel all the changes at once.
-J
 
how does it defeat the purpose? its still making contact like like the ones pictured above... only its got some padding now lol
 
chinaski said:
how does it defeat the purpose? its still making contact like like the ones pictured above... only its got some padding now lol
Click to expand...

Well the point of the rear strut bar is to keep the rear struts from flexing more than they do.

When you go to turn a corner, a force is applied in the rear end of the car. The towers in the rear are absorbing the force applied to the suspension as much as it can. Since there is flex in the rear due to a nice trunk for daily drivers. The rear end can not support the force applied to the vehicle so the body of the vehicle is taking the toll of the force. What the bar is for, is to make the rear strut towers solid. We do this by placing this bar there :)

Now putting a cushion type material in between( which you have done). Still allows the towers to still have some flex resulting in little work done By the bar. The padding is about 1/4 inch thick. The towers don't flex that much. So that bar you applied at the rear isn't doing the job it needs to do because of this cushion of space. The material needs to be removed so the bar can be applied metal to metal. Making the boxed end of towers solid. Helping reduce rear end flex.

The padding is not solid there for it has enough flex in the material for when forces are applied the material shrinks then expands making the bar not perform at its maximum potential.





Now it has taken me longer to write that then it would have for you lazy but to go cut two x's in the back end of your trunk carpet.:crazy:
 
Did anyone else have fitment issues at all? I installed my rstb today and lined the top of the end bracket to the seam right before the tower starts to become round. I did this for both sides but i feel like the bottom of one side doesnt sit as flush as the bottom of the right side :shrug:
 
hotdimmes said:
Did anyone else have fitment issues at all? I installed my rstb today and lined the top of the end bracket to the seam right before the tower starts to become round. I did this for both sides but i feel like the bottom of one side doesnt sit as flush as the bottom of the right side :shrug:
Click to expand...

The ends on my bar are not symmetrical, but I believe I was able to get it to fit okay.
 
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