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Brake bias controller install? anyone?

blu_fuz

blu_fuz

New Member Classroom vulture
Joined
Sep 25, 2002
Messages
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Waupun, WI
I was thinking about installing a front/rear brake bias controller while the motor is out of my car. I will have for the fronts either the wilwood 13" kit with 6 pot calipers or the baer 13" kit with 2 pot calipers. I really want to have the correct braking power for the fronts and rears without having the fronts doing all the work.
Any suggestions as to where I should run the bias controller from? I am thinking right after the brake booster....
Any info is appreciated :)
 
don't our cars have two circuit brake systems which are diagonal across the car? if so wouldn't you need two controllers and wouldn't that be hard to balance?


sounds like a rear brake kit would be in order.
 
I forgot our brake lines "X" - yep, that would mean two brake controllers for sure :blackeye:
 
If you are still running the ABS module, don't bother with an adjustable brake bias valve. Not worth it. Just make sure you increase the rear, either with diameter or more aggressive pads proportionally as you increase the front brake torque. If you need some help, let me know I can help you run the numbers.

All an adjustable brake bias valve will do is limit brake pressure to the rear. The ABS/EBD module already performs this function, and far better than a simple adjustable valve will do it.
 
Why don't you get TCE's rear kit too? That will maintain most of the bias... from the rotor diameter anyways.
 
blu, I got to thinking after re-reading your original post . . . I don't think you understand what a brake bias controller actually does . . .

You put the controller in to REDUCE the bias to the rear brakes in order to avoid a potentially unstable and dangerous condition of having the rear brakes lock up before the fronts. The bias valves simply restrict pressure to the rear brakes to reduce the amount of pressure available and consequently to reduce rear bias. If your setup is already heavily front biased, you will do nothing but reduce your already inadequate rear brakes by even more.

the point being, you don't need a bias valve or prop valve or any of the other names they might go by.
 
I thought a brake bias would allow you to change the pressure + OR - for the front or the rear.... :blackeye: duh

I want to upgrade the rear brakes too - If the wilwood kit I have works awesome, then I will sell my Baer kit to get $ for the TCE rear brakes..... I didn't want to upgrade the rears because I want to keep the e-brake -
 
If you really want to keep the e-brake function, the Warmonger/NPG rear kit is a good way to go. Combine it with some good pads, and you should be just fine for bias with any of the commercially available front kits.

The TCE kit is definately cooler for the rear, but you do lose the e-brake.
 
The NPG kit has been mentioned before, but I don't know what it is. I would do the wormonger kit, but I am hesitant for some reason..... I do have a set of new SVT rotors I could use for the wormonger rear conversion to :ponder: The TCE kit is killer, as you said, and it bums me out that it does not use the e-brake.
 
Nope... you don't loose the ebrake with the TCE rear kit. The kit is comprised of adapter blocks and rotors -- you use your current calipers.

Now... with the new Wilwood faux rear calipers Todd is selling, you may loose the ebrake... but I believe those were designed to retain OEM ebrake functionality.
 
eww, tell me more :drool:
I would probably go with the TCE 11.xx rear then, I think that uses a thinner rotor also or will I be milling down calipers and rotors like the NPG kit?
 
Correctamundo. There's no loss of anything with the larger rotor kit.

I'd take the rotor over pad on the stock rotor any day for improved efficiency.

As for the faux calipers...I think you mean the Wilwood combo caliper? Here you simply have a single piston slider replacing a like part but with more bling. It won't work any differently and piston area is very close to many, many rear oem calipers so they slide in nicely for a visual replacement.
 
Last edited:
Todd TCE said:
Correctamundo. There's no loss of anything with the larger rotor kit.
Click to expand...

Yeah, sorry about the bad info I put above Todd. Not sure what I was thinking about making the assumption you were using a wilwood fixed caliper w/ the rear kits . . .
 
what is the SVT front rotor thickness? I think the TCE kit offers .75 for the rear?
 
Stock is also near .750 or I'd have done differently. I can't change the width of the rotor and still get the caliper to fit.
 
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